why lock front suspension?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: still above ground
Bikes: 2016 Specialized crosstrail comp disc
why lock front suspension?
I understand that the front suspension on hybrids is intended for rough conditions like unpaved trails.
But what is the big deal about having a remote lock out?
What is the advantage on a paved road of eliminating the damping effect of the fork by locking out the suspension?
But what is the big deal about having a remote lock out?
What is the advantage on a paved road of eliminating the damping effect of the fork by locking out the suspension?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Eagan, MN
Bikes: 2016 Giant Fastroad CoMax 2, 2002 Jamis Tangier, Classic Nakamichi 10 speed.
Because for every fraction of an inch that your forks "give" or compress, it takes efficiency away from your pedaling power. Many pavement riders don't want to give up the efficiency when riding on hard surfaces. You will be faster on roads if you can lock your fork.
I understand that the front suspension on hybrids is intended for rough conditions like unpaved trails.
But what is the big deal about having a remote lock out?
What is the advantage on a paved road of eliminating the damping effect of the fork by locking out the suspension?
But what is the big deal about having a remote lock out?
What is the advantage on a paved road of eliminating the damping effect of the fork by locking out the suspension?
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Bikes: Many bikes in three states and two countries, mainly riding Moots Vamoots, Lynskey R265 disc and a Spot Denver Zephyr nowadays
And you will be able to climb better.
#4
Full Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Bay, FL
Bikes: 2021 Specialized Tarmac Pro
I was just as skeptical until I got the manual lock-out feature on my 2015 Specialized Expert Disc. Makes all the difference. Bike is way faster and stiffer climbing or on flat fast pavement. If I'm descending and there are going to be significant bumps or seams I just flick the lock-out and activate my suspension. Changes the ride for the better completely. Try it. I bet you will like it.
#5
Also keeps the front end from pogo-ing when hitting the brakes going downhill.
__________________

C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line


C'dale BBU('05 and '09)/Super Six/Hooligan8and 3,Kona Dew Deluxe,Novara Buzz/Safari,Surly Big Dummy,Marin Pt Reyes,Giant Defy 1,Schwinn DBX SuperSport,Brompton S6L/S2E-X/M6L-X/S12 T Line

#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 270
Likes: 5
From: Tasmania Australia
Bikes: 2014 Avanti Cadent ERII 2, 2013 Trek DS 8.4, 2008 Norco Wolverine
Locked off for pavement or road pretty much always.
I'll even lock it off going uphill on dirt/gravel/trails especially if I'm off the seat.
I'll even lock it off going uphill on dirt/gravel/trails especially if I'm off the seat.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 263
Likes: 2
From: Canada
Bikes: 2013 Trek 8.4 DS
Pretty much what everybody said.
You want your front suspension locked on roads for efficiency. You will want it unlocked on trails to remove the buzz from the rough surface, make things more comfortable, and keep your front wheel connected to the ground (I.e. remove wheel bouncing).
Do do not buy a dual sport type hybrid without a "lockable" suspension if you plan do do any roads, or you will regret it as some other forum goers did. I initially tried a lower end DS with suspension always open, and the mushy front bouncing while I pedaled - sapping my power was a deal breaker! A hydraulic "on the go lockout" was the sweet spot.
As for different lockout terminology (typically as you go up the range):
- non locking: don't get these!
- mechanical lockout: need to get your weight off the bike to turn a knob on suspension to lock/unlock.
- hydraulic lockout: can reach down and turn a knob on suspension while riding to lock/unlock.
- remote lockout: lever on the handlebar to lock/unlock while riding (no reaching).
You want your front suspension locked on roads for efficiency. You will want it unlocked on trails to remove the buzz from the rough surface, make things more comfortable, and keep your front wheel connected to the ground (I.e. remove wheel bouncing).
Do do not buy a dual sport type hybrid without a "lockable" suspension if you plan do do any roads, or you will regret it as some other forum goers did. I initially tried a lower end DS with suspension always open, and the mushy front bouncing while I pedaled - sapping my power was a deal breaker! A hydraulic "on the go lockout" was the sweet spot.
As for different lockout terminology (typically as you go up the range):
- non locking: don't get these!
- mechanical lockout: need to get your weight off the bike to turn a knob on suspension to lock/unlock.
- hydraulic lockout: can reach down and turn a knob on suspension while riding to lock/unlock.
- remote lockout: lever on the handlebar to lock/unlock while riding (no reaching).
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: still above ground
Bikes: 2016 Specialized crosstrail comp disc
Pretty much what everybody said.
You want your front suspension locked on roads for efficiency. You will want it unlocked on trails to remove the buzz from the rough surface, make things more comfortable, and keep your front wheel connected to the ground (I.e. remove wheel bouncing).
Do do not buy a dual sport type hybrid without a "lockable" suspension if you plan do do any roads, or you will regret it as some other forum goers did. I initially tried a lower end DS with suspension always open, and the mushy front bouncing while I pedaled - sapping my power was a deal breaker! A hydraulic "on the go lockout" was the sweet spot.
As for different lockout terminology (typically as you go up the range):
- non locking: don't get these!
- mechanical lockout: need to get your weight off the bike to turn a knob on suspension to lock/unlock.
- hydraulic lockout: can reach down and turn a knob on suspension while riding to lock/unlock.
- remote lockout: lever on the handlebar to lock/unlock while riding (no reaching).
You want your front suspension locked on roads for efficiency. You will want it unlocked on trails to remove the buzz from the rough surface, make things more comfortable, and keep your front wheel connected to the ground (I.e. remove wheel bouncing).
Do do not buy a dual sport type hybrid without a "lockable" suspension if you plan do do any roads, or you will regret it as some other forum goers did. I initially tried a lower end DS with suspension always open, and the mushy front bouncing while I pedaled - sapping my power was a deal breaker! A hydraulic "on the go lockout" was the sweet spot.
As for different lockout terminology (typically as you go up the range):
- non locking: don't get these!
- mechanical lockout: need to get your weight off the bike to turn a knob on suspension to lock/unlock.
- hydraulic lockout: can reach down and turn a knob on suspension while riding to lock/unlock.
- remote lockout: lever on the handlebar to lock/unlock while riding (no reaching).
#10
Senior Member

Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 1,192
From: Kips Bay, NY
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Lock-out on low-end forks masks the lack of adjustability and valving that higher end forks have. The inability to fine tune spring rate, compression and rebound damping, as well as sag and lack of any type of anti-bob valving means locking-out the pogo stick is the only option you have. My suggestion is that youre better off with a rigid fork than any suspension fork that lacks the adjustments necessary to keep the tire tracking properly
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Bikes: '09 Trek 2.1 * '75 Sekine * 2010 Raleigh Talus 8.0 * '90 Giant Mtb * Raleigh M20 * Fuji Nevada mtb
Now I'm really confused....
__________________
FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
FB4K - Every October we wrench on donated bikes. Every December, a few thousand kids get bikes for Christmas. For many, it is their first bike, ever. Every bike, new and used, was donated, built, cleaned and repaired. Check us out on FaceBook: FB4K.
Disclaimer: 99% of what I know about cycling I learned on BF. That would make, ummm, 1% experience. And a lot of posts.
#12
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Bikes: 2016 Trek 8.5 DS, 2010 Felt F4, 1998 Cannondale Silk Path 900, 1975 Schwinn Continental
I was just as skeptical until I got the manual lock-out feature on my 2015 Specialized Expert Disc. Makes all the difference. Bike is way faster and stiffer climbing or on flat fast pavement. If I'm descending and there are going to be significant bumps or seams I just flick the lock-out and activate my suspension. Changes the ride for the better completely. Try it. I bet you will like it.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Mansfield, Nottinghamshire
Bikes: 6 (3 electric, 3 folders)+ 1 3hub-geared hybrid
That might be a little too technical for some people (including myself) to comprehend. Would a suitable analogy be that of riding with under-inflated tyres?
#14
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Eagan, MN
Bikes: 2016 Giant Fastroad CoMax 2, 2002 Jamis Tangier, Classic Nakamichi 10 speed.
That was too technical??? Under inflated tires are certainly different but yes, it still falls into the category of muting or taking away power from your pedaling efforts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
techman
Road Cycling
7
03-11-11 10:56 PM







