1.5 for sure

Thanks, I was hoping Specialized upgraded the Future Shock on the 6.0 as it is a 2021 model. Funny, unless I am missing it, Specialized does not mention which version comes with the Sirrus 6.0 as they do on their Diverge series, probably because they need to distinguish the Future Shock 1.5 from the 2.0 offered in the Diverge line.

I initially chose the Sirrus 4.0 carbon frame, thinking that it had the Future Shock system, but I confused it with the Sirrus X 4.0 which has Future Shock coupled with Carbon fork and Aluminum frame. The 4.0 is a great bike, but wanted an upright positioned bike with Future Shock for additional comfort on irregular city streets and paved paths; therefore opting for the 6.0. Looking forward to trying it out and was hoping some 6.0 owners would weigh in as to their thoughts as the bike seems to be rather new and I have not seen any reviews.

I ride 5 miles everyday; shoot me on over any specific questions, or requests. Keep in mind, this is my first road bike, ever.

Some quick thoughts:. I still try and avoid any bumps or cracks, still kinda rough in a regular park style environment. Hard to believe it might even be worse on a un-shocked fork. It's a fast bike. Shifting is smooth, sometimes the Microsoft will miss, and I'll have to gear up again, then back down. About 5% of the time. Might be a tuning thing.

The matte finish is extremely fragile and will knock easily. Much less durable than paint and clear. Be careful of doorways, and always prop the door open first. I knocked mine pretty hard on the rear thinking I can open the door with one hand and carry the bike with the other. The 29er only works on the front hub. Allen for adjusting the seat is hidden into the handlebars. Cool feature comes in handy when first getting the seat right.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cfb70d5ccc.jpg

Did your shop set yours up with the trimming function? On mine I have to click twice to go up and twice to go back down on the front ring. Cool feature, but as I've been riding mine it's been rubbing a little and making noise. Planning to take it in this week, but the trimming function was something I wasn't expecting. It's supposed to help reduce cross chaining noise, but isn't cross chaining bad? (Then why do they encourage bad behaviour!!)

Thanks for the reply. The bike looks very cool and stealthy.
I ride on mostly concrete/asphalt paths or city streets in flat areas, so not a lot of changing gears. In fact, my current bike never leaves its highest gearing and I just peddle through it. Looking forward to getting my fingerprints on the matte finish :-)
As for set up, in my area you wait almost a month before anyone even looks at your bike. Crazy times.
Thanks,

I have no idea. This is the first I'm hearing of it, and I did take 20 mins to read a bit about it before responding.

Left side is my chain rings.
Right side is cassettes; I click once to go up a gear; once to go down, and if I press it all the way down it will jump two gears at a time; but, only for downshifting. Here is what I'm using. Do you guys ever miss a shift and get caught in a sort of neutral pedaling?
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...00686c1100.jpg


No matter how much I read on trimming, I can't seem to grasp the what it's trying to accomplish. What is the point of the half shift? Because; when my shifts miss, the bike is just caught in a neutral state where the pedals row forward freely; sometimes the gear will "eventually" catch, and other times, I will gear up again, and then back down to get the gear I was supposed to be in. The miss-shift usually happens on a very medium cassette wheel, for flat road; so, it I wouldn't be on any extremes for cross chaining from the main chain ring.

Don't even see how that's possible; my little town is nothing special, but I've needed just about every cassette wheel at this point..all 11 speeds. Havn't needed the second smaller chain ring yet though. Even the slightest incline will take the bike from 20mph to about 5mph, and I'll need about 5 gears down just for a 10° incline. I'd like to think I'm in better shape than most, been powerlifting just about my entire life now, but, man, a slight hill will just take me the F out!

What area are you in? Believe from online order to pick-up was around 7 days for me; shoutout to Senoia, GA bike shop.

Check out the MicroSHIFT website. (The brand our shifters are made from). Scroll to the bottom and they talk about the trim function:
https://www.microshift.com/en/product/sl-r861-2/

The idea of trimming the front derailleur is to prevent the chain from rubbing against the slide plate if you have the chain "cross-chained". That is...running in the small ring on the front and one of the smaller sprockets on the cassette. In these scenarios, you can "half shift" the front derailler to the right, which moves the cage to the right to prevent chain drag. This is sometimes perceived as a missed shift.

It sounds like your chain may be skipping teeth on the cassette (pedalling forward "in neutral"). That's probably a tuning issue requiring a bit of adjustment with the barrel adjuster. There are a lot of YouTube videos that illustrate this. Park Tool has some very good ones.

I am in the San Francisco Area, and bike shops are just overwhelmed. Bikes are delivered at the curb, as you are not allowed to go in their shops, even with masks. You order your bike on line, line up outside, 6' apart with a mask on, they roll out the bike and you ride it off. Not the best customer experience, but it allows them to stay in business and they do offer returns if not satisfied with a bike.

As for not shifting much, I guess I have disproportionately strong legs for someone 5'9" and 145 pounds. I just pedal through any gear I am in, but sure that will change with this new bike.

Thanks

Well there was finally some good news in my saga to get a new bike, long story short it took over 30 days but I picked up my Sirrus 6.0 on Saturday! It's been in the mid 90s so I haven't had a chance to ride more than a few miles but it's a HUGE upgrade compared to my 20 year old Trek that weighs 34 pounds! Only complaint so far is by bottom was a little sore even after riding only 1.5-2.0 miles when I typically ride 15+ miles without any issues, so hopefully it will just take a bit getting used to the new shape and size of the saddle.

Hi everyone,

I’ve just picked up my Sirrus 4, I’m really pleased with it although the crankset lets it’s down (it looks ugly).

The rear cassette and derailleur are Shimano Sora (9 speed), the crankset is an unbranded 48/32t.

Would I be able to swap the crankset for a Shimano Sora FCR3000 50/34t?

TIA

I did just that with no issues

Thanks for the reply.

Did you need to replace the bottom bracket/chain or was it just a straight swap?

If you're keeping the current 11-34 cassette you'll need a new chain. I kept the same bottom bracket

Congrats, Bruce! So, how much does new bike weigh, and what size, please? Very curious how it compares to my aluminum 2013 model. Thanks and enjoy your beautiful Sirrus.

Thanks! I used the bathroom scale to weigh myself and then weigh myself holding the bike so I am not sure it's 100% accurate but it looked to be in the 22-23 pound range. I do have my garmin front light and rear light mounted along with 2 bottle cages and 2 mostly empty plastic water bottles on it, but I'd imagine those don't add very much weight.

21 lbs on a 6.0 Medium
Weight corrected using dumbbells; but, those can be off sometimes too, so....
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...361c010fd9.jpg

Ahh yeah, forgot to mention mine is a Large, but not sure how much more weight that would add, but I'm guessing no more than a pound for sure.

I’ve just fitted some Schwalbe G-One Allround 700x38 (the Bike came with 700x32) and went tubeless.

the fitting was really straight forward, the 1st tyre seated straight away, the 2nd was a bit harder but eventually seated.

i can’t wait to try them out later today, I’ll report back on what I think of them (for anyone interested).

Just an update on my Sirrus 6.0. I had problem with the seatpost lowering as I rid over my normal 15 mile route the first two times I rode it so I watched a few youtube videos to find out that the little rubber washer/rubber band commonly breaks very easily was the most likely culprit and sure enough I found out mine had broke. I replaced it with a small rubber band and torqued it back to spec and didn't have the issue on today's ride.

Today the wind was negligible and I averaged a moving speed of 14.5 MPH (overall speed with my 2 water breaks was 14 MPH). The best I ever did on my old heavy 20 year old Trek was 12.7 moving speed with the wind at my back but my average had been 12.1 MPH over 10 rides with my old bike. There is an elevation change of 775 feet up/down over the 15 mile ride and it was a bit warm 84 degrees today with humidity between 33% when I started and 44% when I ended. My first ride with the new bike was 14MPH and 2nd was only 12.7 MPH (but the wind was 22-30MPH for half of the ride) both with the seatpost slipping take me out of my optimal position.

So far I am extremely happy with the bike and the way it performs!

Do you mind elaborating just a tiny bit more? I still plan on lowering my bike seat as my angle is currently at 160°. And, did you use the little allen that came with the bike, or another tool? The little allen is too small to turn by itself.

I am trying to find the video I saw yesterday but I am having some issues locating it, but basically there is a tiny rubber band around the seat post that is supposed to go between the seatpost and the wedge clamp to help keep the seatpost from slipping but it is very thin and delicate and easily breaks. I'll try looking through my search history again tomorrow and see if I can find it for you!

For anyone interested, the comfort levels with the Schwalbe tyres are like night and day compared to the stock 32’s, so pleased with the upgrade.

Finished a new round of upgrades for the Sirrus.

Added new bars and upgraded the wheels

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7c5ddd235.jpg