My 2015 Trek Verve has its original rim brake pads (Tektro). They stop well, and I have them adjusted so that they mostly do not squeal. The issue I experience with them is that, after about 10 seconds of sustained light braking (like to maintain speed down a hill), they become noisy, with a rather loud grinding sound. It sounds as if they're getting heat glazed and lose some effectiveness. I have taken them off the bike more than once, and washed them, sanded them down to remove any glazing, etc.

Is this behavior typical or expected for rim brakes like these? Is it a simple case of I need new brake pads because these have gotten hard or maybe because they're a poor compound? Or is my technique wrong? We have some fairly long hills and it's at least once a ride where I'm coasting down a hill and finding that I use the brakes (even riding the brakes?) to maintain my speed.

I appreciate any and all suggestions. Thank you in advance!

I just posted this on another thread regarding rim-brake pads. I would suggest these, I use them on my 2002 Giant Sedona, they work great without any grinding or fading.

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For replacement brake pads on rim-brakes, I personally prefer these Kool-Stop Thinline's, the vee'd shape of the leading and trailing edges help to keep the pad from picking up as much debris, and therefore don't lead to scoring of the rim as badly as normal "square" pads. Plus they just work great and last seemingly forever.

https://www.mec.ca/en/product/4008-2...e-V-Brake-Pads



Cheers
TRJB

I've had great results with Kool Stops (salmon and black) and Jagwire black pads, for both my linear pull/V-brakes, and cantilever brakes. That includes frequent hard braking and long downhill gradual braking. Remarkably free of noise and fades.

Last night I was reviewing some ride videos trying to find a particular segment and found a video from last summer before I replaced my V-brake pads with Kool Stops. I could tell because of the grinding noise, squealing and poor braking. Made me wonder why I put up with those mediocre pads for so long.

If your budget is tight (mine often is) check out Amazon and others for prices on Jagwire and even some Shimano brand pads. They can often cost as little as half the price of Kool Stops.

Light and continuous braking is generally considered poor technique, as it causes most heat build-up. Interval braking - short & hard - allows the pads & rims to sved more heat before the next round. Together with sitting bolt upright and things like that.

I figured my technique has some to do with it, yes.

I've also read good things about Kool Stop pads, both on here and elsewhere. Sheldon Brown's website also speaks highly of them, but I didn't know if that information was still relevant. It appears that it is. I may try them.

My daughter's Raleigh has Tektro brake arms and pads, but they have a different part number, and they seem to be of a different compound. They really seem to bite hard -- they feel like a softer pad compound. I wouldn't expect my pads (from 2015 new install) to be aged so bad that they cease to work correctly anymore, so I have to believe that it's a different rubber formulation.

Thanks, all.

Carefully adjust them so that they "toe-in" toward the forward rotation of the rim. This should solve that problem although you may have to use the barrel adjusters to give a bit more clearance for the toing in.

Toe-in will help minimize squealing and vibration related chatter and noises, but not grinding. If the brakes are properly adjusted and still making grinding noises it's probably time to try different pads.

Another advantage to some Kool Stops is the wedge or plow-tip shown in the pads above, and in their Eagle 2 pads for cantilever brakes. These take the guesswork out of toe-in. Just mash the pad flat against the rims, align them with the rim to avoid rubbing the tires, and cinch 'em down. The wedge sets the toe-in and helps scrape water and mud off the rims in messy conditions. I like the Eagle 2 pads so well for my mountain bike's canti brakes I'll get the thinline pads shown above for my hybrid's V-brakes next time I replace the pads -- probably in a few months at the current rate of wear.

The thinline pads made by Kool Stop and Jagwire are also easier to align on thin rims to avoid tire rub. The Eagle 2 pads are a bit wider than I'd like and a hassle to align optimally on the rear rim. I use Jagwire thinline pads on the front to provide more fork clearance when changing flats -- the Eagle 2 pads are much thicker and didn't provide enough fork clearance for easy tire repairs, although they worked just fine.

KS Salmon compound go on my rim braked bikes.. All rubbers harden with time, Maybe before the pad wears thin..

my TRP Pads came off, Promptly.. when I got them, Mine cantilever, not V..





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