I like the buttery handlebars the best as an economy solution. The carbon Jones H-bar is a nice $$$ solution. Lots of hand positions for each.
Edit: Butterfly, not buttery.

An alternative and often chosen in Europe, is figure 8 bend trekking bars.
more hand positions than straight bars .

you can get the lean forward, with the front bend, (for headwinds?)
and sit more upright, closer reach in the rear of the bars grips..
and the bar end like sides,,

This is an Italian made ITM bar made for the NL bike company Koga..
this is more a world tour bike with 26" rather than 700c wheels ..



single tube, from Modolo, Italy.

I switched from flat, then riser bars, a couple of months ago in favor of a Nitto albatross bar. It's a keeper. More hand positions, from upright and comfortable to leaning in and more aero, and much easier on my injured shoulder and neck.

After a couple of months using indexed thumb shifters, then cheap SunRace friction thumb shifters, I'm switching to bar end shifters soon.

Look at the Jones bar

have it on my hybrid and my fatbike. Really like themany positions and the "aero" that i gained from flatbar.

Ditto, same reason I'm liking the albatross bar -- old neck injury, re-aggravated by a recent shoulder injury.

I was surprised to find how versatile the albatross bar is -- pretty comparable to drop bars in versatility, especially with the albatross bar flipped, although it'll be awhile before my shoulder recovers enough for that.

I've done a few casual group rides of 35-45 miles the past couple of months with the abatross bars and while other parts of the body may be tired or aching, the hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders and neck are comfortable. Huge improvement over the riser and flat bars for longer rides. And not any slower. While our group rides tend to be very leisurely I'm usually running late so I'll hustle the 10-12 miles from home to the meetup. My speed has improved a little with the albatross bars because I can lean into the curves or just ahead of the brakes (yet still have my hands ready to brake), getting just a little more aero without any strain. And for the group rides in traffic I'm often at the rear to encourage and retrieve stragglers, so I can sit upright with my hands on the grips and look around more easily -- much better peripheral vision for riding in traffic, for those of us with mobility limitations from neck injuries.

Meanwhile I'm replacing the angled dirt stem with a horizontal stem from my road bike. It'll be just a little longer and lower, just enough to suit my improved conditioning over the past month, and to clear some room for bar end shifters between the end of the bar and my knees.

And I have some Arundel Gecko padded bar tape to wrap it all up after switching from cheap SunRace friction shifters near the stem to bar end shifters. It'll be more comfortable in cold and/or wet weather, although the bare metal bar really isn't uncomfortable when I'm on the forward curves. It's well balanced so I'm not leaning heavily enough on the bar to be uncomfortable despite my occasional wrist aches. If I lower the bar a bit the padded tape should be more comfortable.

A friend put bar end shifters on his Surly with drop bars and likes 'em. He wrapped them with two colors of Newbaum's cloth tape. He originally planned to braid wrap the two colors for a harlequin look, but couldn't get the spacing right. I told him that's why he needed daughters or sisters.

While I'm keeping my road bike as-is, drop bar and downtube shifters and all, I'm tempted now to get an older steel road bike of similar weight and convert it to a lighter weight hybrid with albatross or North Road bars. I've seen a couple of older steel road bikes converted like that on our local casual group rides and the owners say it's terrific, and saves up to 5 lbs off a typical hybrid or older mountain bike.

***



Not my bike, just an example of how my friction thumb shifters were set up, although mine were closer to the stem so I could ride the forward curves of the albatross bar. I'll be switching to bar end shifters soon. And to a stem like the above bike -- right now I'm using the original upward angled dirt stem. And that harlequin braid wrap looks good in leather too.

Then check your wallet and look at the Osprey

how is that even comparable?
the way i see it is that the handlebar is a long term investment and when i sell my bike i put the original straight bar on it and use the H-bar on the new bike.
contact points, besides geometry, are most important for comfort and efficiency. so definitely worth to buy what works for me.

Photos Timmy. We need to see what you're saying.