thanks csport 👍 saved me there

Masonchat.....don't do it! You have a nice flat-bar bike that's set up as one......and You love it
If you think you want drops get a used bike to test the waters. It could be a costly conversion to find out your Fastroad isn't suitable for drops.
I recently converted a Giant roadbike that I've had since 2001 from drops to flat-bar and my 63yo back has thanked me every ride since.....

thanks speedway , lot of food for thought in the thread , but I'll tell you one thing regardless of what I decide, it's definitely saved me from buying something that's completely incomparable at the very least

If you do buy those you will screw yourself out of any warranty as whatever site that is I have extreme doubts they are an authorized Shimano dealer and I would question if they are even genuine Shimano parts in the first place.

I see this type of comment often when someone is asking questions about drop-bar conversions. Doing a DB conversion doesn't have to be an "invest a bunch of money and time and only then see if it fits ok..." adventure.

If someone has a drop bar bike that fits well(or even a flat bar bike), everything is known with respect to how the fit of a flat bar bike will transition to a drop bar bike.

Step 1) Measure the frame and handlebar stack and reach of the good-fit road bike.
or
Step 1) Measure the frame and handlebar stack and reach of the good-fit flat bar bike.



Step 2) Use the stem comparison site to estimate the handlebar stack/reach impact of various stems available.
Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

Step 3) Use the specs on compact drop bars (typically 75mm reach and 125mm drop) to estimate the handlebar stack/reach of the drop bar converted bike.

Step 4) Compare the handlebar stack/reach to the good fitting second bike. In my case there isn't one specific stack/reach combo that I find comfortable, rather there's a fairly wide range of stack and specifically reach that I find comfortable. If you can't find parts (a stem, usually) a DB convert-candidate bike needs to get the conversion into a comfortable stack/reach range, then the candidate bike isn't good for a DB conversion.

The key is flat bar bike a shorter than average top tube. For example, the 1990-1993 Trek 900 series mtn bikes have a shorter top tube than 1994 and up.

My touring bike is a '93 Trek 970 with a DB converted handlebar stack and reach that is very similar to my road bikes. Similar enough that I can ride 50 miles a day for a couple weeks and have no fit issues at all. It's a wonderful touring bike.

This is a recent DB conversion on a Trek 7.5FX (WSD) for my partner. I've done two of these for her. They've been really nice bikes. First, they fit And they run fast 38mm tires with plenty of gearing to handle about any terrain.

The Corner Bar really didn’t work for me. The horns were a bit too short for a comfortable hand position, not like riding on the hoods of the brake levers.

fishboat has a point.....my conversion to flat bar cost me under $100CDN.
The bars, neck, brake levers, grips came as a package used for $50.
The micro-shifters for the front and rear changers were $45BNIB. I ended up only keeping the rear shifter paddle and removing the big crank ring & front changer.
You just have to ensure the shifters and brake levers are compatible with your existing hardware.

thanks for this fishbowl, I've ordered the parts , and I have a few different stems already so I think I'll find a balance

Ignore the price in the pic , that was for just front derailleur, I ordered the set shifters rear and front dérailleurs cassette chain and calipers , 300 odd euro , ive shoped from there many times , never had anything but what I paid for

What did you decide to go with?
11 speed and cable actuated calipers?

Nope not the issue, I doubt that place is an authorized Shimano dealer so therefore everything stated is still 100% still very relevant. Just because you get what you paid for doesn't mean you aren't getting knockoffs or fakes.