Free/Cheap Mods
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 124
Bikes: Specialized/Globe Vienna
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Free/Cheap Mods
So when working on cars (my other addiction, er, hobby) we have lots of little subtle improvements you can make for cheap or even free. I tried searching the forum but haven't found anything like that. Anyone have some cool ideas? Share your ideas or pics!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ms/Ca, USA,Earth.
Posts: 705
Bikes: 2009 Trek FX 7.3 ( pimp moment )
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I have a pair of toe clips with straps you can have for free,just pay the shipping.Oh well, this is not exactly free isn't it?
#3
aka Phil Jungels
Check your tire pressure every day, and top it off to maximum on the sidewall. Flat tires don't roll very easily.
When it comes time to replace tires, get a tire as slick as you can findg
Make sure your brakes are adjusted, so they don't rub (even a little) on the rims.
Make sure your seat is adjusted so that your leg is straight, if you are pedalling on your heels. That way, you get a little bend in your knee when you are pedalling with the balls of your feet. Makes for more efficient, and easier, pedalling. While you are at it, make sure it is adjusted (nose up or down) so that you don't slide fore or aft while riding.
If you have a shock mount on your seat or seatpost, get rid of it at the earliest convenience - they really rob energy.
If you have suspension on the front end, screw the preload as tight as you can, and if it has a lockout feature, use it, except on really rough surfaces.
Don't carry more weight than you need.......
Wear a helmet (ALWAYS) to protect your brain when you need it most.
Don't wear floppy clothes, if you can help it - you would be surprised ho much wind resistance it adds up to.
Try to get your cadence to a minimum of 60 RPM, and 80 will be much better. It is more efficient, and helps you go faster, farther, longer.
Concentrate on making circles with your pedals, not just mashing them on the down stroke.
Make horsepower (manpower) with pedal speed, rather than brute torque. Lots easier if your pedal cadence is 80 or so.
When it gets hard to pedal, you should have downshifted much earlier - think ahead.
Take advantage of the downhills for additional speed, and go uphill easier.
Stand and pedal when it gets too tough.
Drink water before you need it - it takes a long time to recover if you drink it to late.
The same goes for food ----- just monitor what kind you put in your pie hole - fruits and veggies are good, fats and sugars are bad....... LOL
In bicycling - it's all about the motor (YOU) ---- not the bike........ a strong motor, with good skills, goes faster, longer, farther.....
And MOST IMPORTANT - ride like everyone is trying to hit you -- and stay safe.... (Hi Vis stuff really does help - dark colors, and camo, is really for hunters)
When it comes time to replace tires, get a tire as slick as you can findg
Make sure your brakes are adjusted, so they don't rub (even a little) on the rims.
Make sure your seat is adjusted so that your leg is straight, if you are pedalling on your heels. That way, you get a little bend in your knee when you are pedalling with the balls of your feet. Makes for more efficient, and easier, pedalling. While you are at it, make sure it is adjusted (nose up or down) so that you don't slide fore or aft while riding.
If you have a shock mount on your seat or seatpost, get rid of it at the earliest convenience - they really rob energy.
If you have suspension on the front end, screw the preload as tight as you can, and if it has a lockout feature, use it, except on really rough surfaces.
Don't carry more weight than you need.......
Wear a helmet (ALWAYS) to protect your brain when you need it most.
Don't wear floppy clothes, if you can help it - you would be surprised ho much wind resistance it adds up to.
Try to get your cadence to a minimum of 60 RPM, and 80 will be much better. It is more efficient, and helps you go faster, farther, longer.
Concentrate on making circles with your pedals, not just mashing them on the down stroke.
Make horsepower (manpower) with pedal speed, rather than brute torque. Lots easier if your pedal cadence is 80 or so.
When it gets hard to pedal, you should have downshifted much earlier - think ahead.
Take advantage of the downhills for additional speed, and go uphill easier.
Stand and pedal when it gets too tough.
Drink water before you need it - it takes a long time to recover if you drink it to late.
The same goes for food ----- just monitor what kind you put in your pie hole - fruits and veggies are good, fats and sugars are bad....... LOL
In bicycling - it's all about the motor (YOU) ---- not the bike........ a strong motor, with good skills, goes faster, longer, farther.....
And MOST IMPORTANT - ride like everyone is trying to hit you -- and stay safe.... (Hi Vis stuff really does help - dark colors, and camo, is really for hunters)
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 124
Bikes: Specialized/Globe Vienna
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Great post Wanderer! Thanks! I do have a shock mount on my seatpost but it is extremely stiff, I have to get off the bike and push down with most of my weight to get it to move...
#6
aka Phil Jungels
So, now, consider what it is doing, when you are seated on it, with ALL your weight (instead of most) and then apply more pressure, to lift it, while pedalling.... . With every push of the pedal, you lift your body, instead of pushing on the pedals. (How many squats can you do********************) I rest my case, counsellor......
One more thing - keep your chain oiled, and clean. There is no such thing as tooooo much oil on the inside, or, to little oil on the outside. (not dry outside, but wiped almost dry)
#7
Homey
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 13,499
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2427 Post(s)
Liked 1,403 Times
in
898 Posts
For pink colored grips I used road bike handlebar tape. Came out pretty good and it's really comfy. I wish I had pics but it's on my other computer and that died....On my roadie, when the wheel was built I had red spoke nipples put in. My friend wanted the same effect so he used a red sharpie on his. I must say he got away with it much cheaper than I did.
#9
Homey
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 13,499
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2427 Post(s)
Liked 1,403 Times
in
898 Posts
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 124
Bikes: Specialized/Globe Vienna
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Now, that was FUNNY!!!! LOL
So, now, consider what it is doing, when you are seated on it, with ALL your weight (instead of most) and then apply more pressure, to lift it, while pedalling.... . With every push of the pedal, you lift your body, instead of pushing on the pedals. (How many squats can you do********************) I rest my case, counsellor......
One more thing - keep your chain oiled, and clean. There is no such thing as tooooo much oil on the inside, or, to little oil on the outside. (not dry outside, but wiped almost dry)
So, now, consider what it is doing, when you are seated on it, with ALL your weight (instead of most) and then apply more pressure, to lift it, while pedalling.... . With every push of the pedal, you lift your body, instead of pushing on the pedals. (How many squats can you do********************) I rest my case, counsellor......
One more thing - keep your chain oiled, and clean. There is no such thing as tooooo much oil on the inside, or, to little oil on the outside. (not dry outside, but wiped almost dry)
Also, about how many miles (how often) should I oil the chain?
Last edited by spwelton; 03-31-10 at 12:29 PM.
#12
aka Phil Jungels
I oil my chain whenever it starts making noise, or starts shifting funny........ in my case, about once a month, or every 600 - 1000 miles. If operating under more dusty/dirty conditions, it will need it more.
Buttttt, my fenders help keep it clean longer.
Buttttt, my fenders help keep it clean longer.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 97
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Flatbar Roadbike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Wanderer,
Just read your post....may cut it out and post it on my fridge! LOL. Agree with the minimizing suspension. I lock mine out on the Titus and only use it for downhill or single track. As for oiling the chain, what is the best way to do that? I just put some on a rag and run the chain through it, but there is probably a better way to do it. Also what about adjusting gears? Is there a place to go to get basic maint info?
Just read your post....may cut it out and post it on my fridge! LOL. Agree with the minimizing suspension. I lock mine out on the Titus and only use it for downhill or single track. As for oiling the chain, what is the best way to do that? I just put some on a rag and run the chain through it, but there is probably a better way to do it. Also what about adjusting gears? Is there a place to go to get basic maint info?
#14
aka Phil Jungels
If just oiling the chain, I find the easiest to just drop a drop or two on each roller, as you turn the pedals slowly.
Once that is done, take a rag, and run the chain thru it for several cycles, to "dry" it off. You might have to reposition the rag several times, as it gets dirty.
You do NOT want to wipe all of the oil off of the outside, and may have to put a little oil on a clean spot on the rag to just leva a light film on the outside "almost dry."
If you are going to thoroughly clean it - that's another art. If cleaning, dry well, before reoiling.
I really like a mixture 4/1 of Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40/Mineral Spirits as my oil of choice. The Rptella T Syn, is an excellent, real, Heavy Duty Motor Oil. And, really cheap as bike oils go.
Once that is done, take a rag, and run the chain thru it for several cycles, to "dry" it off. You might have to reposition the rag several times, as it gets dirty.
You do NOT want to wipe all of the oil off of the outside, and may have to put a little oil on a clean spot on the rag to just leva a light film on the outside "almost dry."
If you are going to thoroughly clean it - that's another art. If cleaning, dry well, before reoiling.
I really like a mixture 4/1 of Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40/Mineral Spirits as my oil of choice. The Rptella T Syn, is an excellent, real, Heavy Duty Motor Oil. And, really cheap as bike oils go.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Ms/Ca, USA,Earth.
Posts: 705
Bikes: 2009 Trek FX 7.3 ( pimp moment )
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I was successfully gave away a pair
of slightly used toe clips and strap to a member and now......i have something else to give away,i have a pair of Power Grip regular size toe straps looking
for a new recipient,of course it's slightly used as well, i can not stand the idea of falling off the bike with the straps on,i know i need to
practice but my chance of getting hurt in very unlimited,free to anyone who wants them,just pay the shipping.thanks.
https://powergrips.mrpbike.com/
of slightly used toe clips and strap to a member and now......i have something else to give away,i have a pair of Power Grip regular size toe straps looking
for a new recipient,of course it's slightly used as well, i can not stand the idea of falling off the bike with the straps on,i know i need to
practice but my chance of getting hurt in very unlimited,free to anyone who wants them,just pay the shipping.thanks.
https://powergrips.mrpbike.com/
#17
aka Phil Jungels
Yes, exactly - it thins it so it runs into places better, and then becomes thicker in those hidden places, as the thinner evaporates.
It also helps "flush out" older gunk, as you work it.
I've had better luck with this mix, than other bike specific stuff I have tried over the years.
Works out to be dirt cheap, too........
I do, however, use "parafin" type sprays on some of the neighborhood kids chains, whom I seldom see. Specifically, "DuPont Multi-Use, Dry, Wax lubricant w/Teflon." Available at almost any hardware store. I, personally, don't think it is as good as oil, but it is less messy over time, and seems to last longer. It is a little "gummy."
It also helps "flush out" older gunk, as you work it.
I've had better luck with this mix, than other bike specific stuff I have tried over the years.
Works out to be dirt cheap, too........
I do, however, use "parafin" type sprays on some of the neighborhood kids chains, whom I seldom see. Specifically, "DuPont Multi-Use, Dry, Wax lubricant w/Teflon." Available at almost any hardware store. I, personally, don't think it is as good as oil, but it is less messy over time, and seems to last longer. It is a little "gummy."