Make FX 7.3 faster?
06-28-10, 08:09 AM
#26
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On a flat shot such as crossing the Kingwood<>Atascocita bridge I can fairly easily hit 30mph and hold it for the length of the bridge but when that is done my legs are spent and I will have to put along at 13-14 for the next 5 miles or so.
I try to keep in the 70rpm cadence range as this seems to be my optimal Watt output range according to the spinner bike at my gym. When in this range and gearing I can hold a good 16mph pace for 30 miles.
The Deore rear derailer sucks, I have been thinking about upgrading to a tiagra in hopes of more solid and correct gear changes but have been holding off with the prospect of just buying a new bike.
I try to keep in the 70rpm cadence range as this seems to be my optimal Watt output range according to the spinner bike at my gym. When in this range and gearing I can hold a good 16mph pace for 30 miles.
Any new shimano cassette should fit on any new shimano wheel-hub ... so: yes
If you have a 9-speed deore derailleur than any 9-speed cassette should work with it, since the typical deore derailleurs have a wide range and a long cage.
If you have a 9-speed deore derailleur than any 9-speed cassette should work with it, since the typical deore derailleurs have a wide range and a long cage.
06-28-10, 11:52 AM
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Have you checked your gearcables? They might be a bit rough or something, since a perfectly set-up deore derailleur should shift fine.
06-28-10, 03:53 PM
#28
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The Trek shop replaced the cable thinking that it was binding, the problem went away for a few weeks then came back. The guy at the Specialized shop tinkered with the settings and basically said that the Deore derailers sucked and were prone to gear hopping based on load.
06-28-10, 03:57 PM
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Well ... they shouldn't be.
I have to admit I have an XT and love it, but my wife has a basic deore derailleur and it seems to shift just fine.
Every derailleur needs a bit of tweaking from time to time though as due to differences in humidity or temperature the cables will change length.
Maybe it's just worn out?
I have to admit I have an XT and love it, but my wife has a basic deore derailleur and it seems to shift just fine.
Every derailleur needs a bit of tweaking from time to time though as due to differences in humidity or temperature the cables will change length.
Maybe it's just worn out?
06-28-10, 04:00 PM
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I'd get your current hw 100% for sure working before deciding it needs replacing - a bad LBS can mess up almost anything! This problem sounds like a mis-adjusted derailer and/or poor cable path/unlubed cable. Or perhaps must likely of all, someone was in a hurry and stupid and cut the cable improperly - STI gear cables have to be cut with expensive compressionless cable cutters at the least, and even then they must be used carefully. Cutting with a dremel is even better - it takes longer but gives better shifting.
My suggestion is that you ask for advice about this in the Bike Mechanicals/Repair forum rather than here. You'll get much better advice.
My suggestion is that you ask for advice about this in the Bike Mechanicals/Repair forum rather than here. You'll get much better advice.
Last edited by meanwhile; 06-28-10 at 04:14 PM.
06-28-10, 04:04 PM
#32
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I have a 08 Trek FX 7.3 that has seen about 3k miles thus far and has been a joy for the most part. Thing is I am getting bored of riding on my own all the time and was thinking about riding with the local cycle club, well I ran into them a few weeks ago and well, I was not really able to hang with them as they were doing a steady 19mph, after about a mile my legs were not happy and I had to drop back to my 15mph normal pace. My riding is almost all road or bike path so really the hybrid rout may not have been the best path for me, guess I should have looked around more before I got the FX 7.3.
Now the what I have been wondering is, is this bike suitable for such rides via upgrades, fork, bars, tires etc. or should I just get a Trek Series 1, or Specialized Allez*. I know what my biggest problem is, is the uprightness of my riding position, I was hoping that lower road cycling bars would help this. I have seen others suggest putting 700x25 tires on my bike in place of 700x38's it currently has. Others have suggested a road cycle fork for the more aggressive angle to drop the bike more.
*I am looking at these bikes as I have been told by both of the store guys that my 220lb weight isn't the best for carbon frames, losing weight isn't an option with my stocky 6' build, I am actually at my lightest in years.
Now the what I have been wondering is, is this bike suitable for such rides via upgrades, fork, bars, tires etc. or should I just get a Trek Series 1, or Specialized Allez*. I know what my biggest problem is, is the uprightness of my riding position, I was hoping that lower road cycling bars would help this. I have seen others suggest putting 700x25 tires on my bike in place of 700x38's it currently has. Others have suggested a road cycle fork for the more aggressive angle to drop the bike more.
*I am looking at these bikes as I have been told by both of the store guys that my 220lb weight isn't the best for carbon frames, losing weight isn't an option with my stocky 6' build, I am actually at my lightest in years.
If you're looking for more speed on the cheap, go for the high psi 25c tires for less weight and a little less rolling resistance, and invert the stem to a downward angle for a more aero stance. For a few more bucks, start using clipless pedals/shoes for a little more speed as well.
2. Rolling resistance has a minute effect on top speed. Aero is everything (because energy lost to rr goes up in proportion to the speed, but aero increases with the CUBE.)
If you want a minor and cheap speed increase, invert the stem and cut down the handlebars until they are a fraction wider than your shoulders.
For anything significantly more you'll have to either get a drop bar bike, risk using aero bars on the bike, or convert it to drops. Oh and faster tyres will help - but not all narrow tyres are fast and not all wide tyres are slow. If you really want the advantages of a hybrid and a road racer, then a cyclocross bike is the best way to go - fractionally heavier and minutely slower handling than a racer of the same cost, but often tougher and more versatile than a hybrid.
Oh - and whoever told you to fit a lower fork to drop the bike's nose and improve aero is... strange.
06-28-10, 04:07 PM
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nanan, why don't you take a self-educated online course in basic bike maintenance and try to properly adjust your derailleur yourself?
It isn't very hard and it's a fun hobby to be working on your bike in your garage
06-28-10, 04:18 PM
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Good advice in general, but a botched STI gear set up is the worst start I can imagine to bike repair. Unless you are pretty capable with mechanics in general, have a dremel and cutter handy, and start by installing a new cable to eliminate that possibility.
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