Need Help ! Fitting...
10-27-10 | 09:07 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
10-27-10 | 09:51 PM
#27
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Sorry buddy, my well thought out response was a few posts back. If you had said seat tube length that would have been concise and a lot clearer.
You said your son's bike was longer from crank to the top of the seatpost. Sorry to confuse the meaning of your words with what you were trying to say.
The top of the seatpost is not the top of the seat tube.
You said your son's bike was longer from crank to the top of the seatpost. Sorry to confuse the meaning of your words with what you were trying to say.
The top of the seatpost is not the top of the seat tube.
10-28-10 | 06:39 AM
#28
Banned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,155
Likes: 5
From: Maryland
Bikes: rockhopper, delta V, cannondale H300, Marin Mill Valley
You're welcome.
I will consider your advice to stop buying too small bikes but so far I have made it work for me. If your bike is a little small for you, you can make it work too!.
Let me elaborate with illustrations. I needed a new bike and I found this Cannondale at a local bike shop retailing for a little over $300. At that price point (their least expensive model) Cannondale was offering a comfort bike designed to bev ridden in an upright position (notice the stock stem and bars. The time trial barends are not stock!). A simple change of seatpost allowed me to ride it in a more athletic position and it has served me well for many years. Is it too small or am I too cheap?
Recently I found myself again in need of a bike so I returned to the same dealer and bought a MTB. It was designed for offroad riding and featured an upright position. I bought the Large because it put me in my preferred position (about 45º back angle). A mountain biker might prefer bars higher than saddle. The short stem gives me a more upright position than the saddle level to bars would indicate. I wasn't sure about this one, but it's working out pretty well. I lowered the stem 1/2in last weekend. Is it to small or am I too soft?
I have to show this one at an angle because some people would become frightened if they saw how low the handlebar is relative to the seat (about 4 inches). Is it too small or am i too hard?
I guess I want a compact frame but those cost a bundle, so I buy low or mid priced bikes one size too small.
Poor man's compact frame. 
I will consider your advice to stop buying too small bikes but so far I have made it work for me. If your bike is a little small for you, you can make it work too!.
Let me elaborate with illustrations. I needed a new bike and I found this Cannondale at a local bike shop retailing for a little over $300. At that price point (their least expensive model) Cannondale was offering a comfort bike designed to bev ridden in an upright position (notice the stock stem and bars. The time trial barends are not stock!). A simple change of seatpost allowed me to ride it in a more athletic position and it has served me well for many years. Is it too small or am I too cheap?
Recently I found myself again in need of a bike so I returned to the same dealer and bought a MTB. It was designed for offroad riding and featured an upright position. I bought the Large because it put me in my preferred position (about 45º back angle). A mountain biker might prefer bars higher than saddle. The short stem gives me a more upright position than the saddle level to bars would indicate. I wasn't sure about this one, but it's working out pretty well. I lowered the stem 1/2in last weekend. Is it to small or am I too soft?
I have to show this one at an angle because some people would become frightened if they saw how low the handlebar is relative to the seat (about 4 inches). Is it too small or am i too hard?
I guess I want a compact frame but those cost a bundle, so I buy low or mid priced bikes one size too small.
Poor man's compact frame.
Last edited by qmsdc15; 10-28-10 at 06:42 AM.
10-28-10 | 12:35 PM
#29
No no no!! I don't mean so forward to where my knees are hitting the bars!! 
I mean forward enough to where I feel comfortable sitting upright and not leaned toward the bars so much. I have a bulged disc in my back. I can't lean forward too much for any length of time. It was even hard for me to ride a road bike without pain but that was taken care (tons of spacers) so I can ride one now.
__________________
Last edited by Siu Blue Wind; 10-28-10 at 12:38 PM.
10-28-10 | 06:12 PM
#30
Banned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,155
Likes: 5
From: Maryland
Bikes: rockhopper, delta V, cannondale H300, Marin Mill Valley
I'm glad you've figured out how to ride without aggravating your injury. I find the slack seat angles typically found on hybrids are not good for my knees. I swapped out the stock post on my Marin Mill Valley for a zero offset Thomson.
10-28-10 | 06:18 PM
#31
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
You're welcome.
I will consider your advice to stop buying too small bikes but so far I have made it work for me. If your bike is a little small for you, you can make it work too!.
Let me elaborate with illustrations. I needed a new bike and I found this Cannondale at a local bike shop retailing for a little over $300. At that price point (their least expensive model) Cannondale was offering a comfort bike designed to bev ridden in an upright position (notice the stock stem and bars. The time trial barends are not stock!). A simple change of seatpost allowed me to ride it in a more athletic position and it has served me well for many years. Is it too small or am I too cheap?
Recently I found myself again in need of a bike so I returned to the same dealer and bought a MTB. It was designed for offroad riding and featured an upright position. I bought the Large because it put me in my preferred position (about 45º back angle). A mountain biker might prefer bars higher than saddle. The short stem gives me a more upright position than the saddle level to bars would indicate. I wasn't sure about this one, but it's working out pretty well. I lowered the stem 1/2in last weekend. Is it to small or am I too soft?
I have to show this one at an angle because some people would become frightened if they saw how low the handlebar is relative to the seat (about 4 inches). Is it too small or am i too hard?
I guess I want a compact frame but those cost a bundle, so I buy low or mid priced bikes one size too small. Poor man's compact frame.
I will consider your advice to stop buying too small bikes but so far I have made it work for me. If your bike is a little small for you, you can make it work too!.
Let me elaborate with illustrations. I needed a new bike and I found this Cannondale at a local bike shop retailing for a little over $300. At that price point (their least expensive model) Cannondale was offering a comfort bike designed to bev ridden in an upright position (notice the stock stem and bars. The time trial barends are not stock!). A simple change of seatpost allowed me to ride it in a more athletic position and it has served me well for many years. Is it too small or am I too cheap?
Recently I found myself again in need of a bike so I returned to the same dealer and bought a MTB. It was designed for offroad riding and featured an upright position. I bought the Large because it put me in my preferred position (about 45º back angle). A mountain biker might prefer bars higher than saddle. The short stem gives me a more upright position than the saddle level to bars would indicate. I wasn't sure about this one, but it's working out pretty well. I lowered the stem 1/2in last weekend. Is it to small or am I too soft?
I have to show this one at an angle because some people would become frightened if they saw how low the handlebar is relative to the seat (about 4 inches). Is it too small or am i too hard?
I guess I want a compact frame but those cost a bundle, so I buy low or mid priced bikes one size too small.
Poor man's compact frame.
10-28-10 | 06:54 PM
#32
Banned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,155
Likes: 5
From: Maryland
Bikes: rockhopper, delta V, cannondale H300, Marin Mill Valley
Which Marin?
Both of these tires get negative comments when I mention then here, so I'll probably try something different next time around. I am not dissatisfied with either of these models though.
Before you buy the Specialized Nimbus, wait until tomorrow. I'll post pictures of my rear tire, it's shedding chunks of rubber like a cheap retread! I got a lot of flat free miles out of them though.
Both of these tires get negative comments when I mention then here, so I'll probably try something different next time around. I am not dissatisfied with either of these models though.
Before you buy the Specialized Nimbus, wait until tomorrow. I'll post pictures of my rear tire, it's shedding chunks of rubber like a cheap retread! I got a lot of flat free miles out of them though.
10-28-10 | 11:49 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Which Marin?
Both of these tires get negative comments when I mention then here, so I'll probably try something different next time around. I am not dissatisfied with either of these models though.
Before you buy the Specialized Nimbus, wait until tomorrow. I'll post pictures of my rear tire, it's shedding chunks of rubber like a cheap retread! I got a lot of flat free miles out of them though.
Both of these tires get negative comments when I mention then here, so I'll probably try something different next time around. I am not dissatisfied with either of these models though.
Before you buy the Specialized Nimbus, wait until tomorrow. I'll post pictures of my rear tire, it's shedding chunks of rubber like a cheap retread! I got a lot of flat free miles out of them though.
10-28-10 | 11:59 PM
#34
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Last 3 bike rides with my son, ( last 3 days ), No head phones, I can not even hear his bike, I sound like a 4 wheel drive truck coming
down the road. The minute I stop peddling, starts stalling..UURRGGG !! Richard ( Need Tires )
down the road. The minute I stop peddling, starts stalling..UURRGGG !! Richard ( Need Tires )
10-29-10 | 07:37 PM
#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
I really have to eat (crow on this one ), seat was over an inch to far back, thought I had it right. Being a good brand name bike,
( assumed ) everything was adjusted correctly, front and rear hubs to tight. When all properly adjusted correctly, the tires are
not slowing the bike down as much as I thought. Just never thought to check ! Everything was to tight on both front and back wheels,
slowing the bike horrible. Feels so fast now on the road, even without changing tires, I feel so dumb for not checking these things,
was more worried about the HeadShok and brakes etc..Still an awesome bike, locked out the shock on a big climb, really can tell
the difference, then unlocked it for normal riding. I can not believe that stuff was so over tightened. With all the new adjustments
set correctly, the tires do not seem so important anymore. They are only 2" wide with small very tread, but maybe just right for the
little mud I encounter. The BB seems fine, but now I want to check the grease in the hubs, etc.. and went on a super long ride,
perfect fit ! Richard
( assumed ) everything was adjusted correctly, front and rear hubs to tight. When all properly adjusted correctly, the tires are
not slowing the bike down as much as I thought. Just never thought to check ! Everything was to tight on both front and back wheels,
slowing the bike horrible. Feels so fast now on the road, even without changing tires, I feel so dumb for not checking these things,
was more worried about the HeadShok and brakes etc..Still an awesome bike, locked out the shock on a big climb, really can tell
the difference, then unlocked it for normal riding. I can not believe that stuff was so over tightened. With all the new adjustments
set correctly, the tires do not seem so important anymore. They are only 2" wide with small very tread, but maybe just right for the
little mud I encounter. The BB seems fine, but now I want to check the grease in the hubs, etc.. and went on a super long ride,
perfect fit ! Richard
10-29-10 | 08:04 PM
#37
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
10-30-10 | 07:47 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,275
Likes: 10
From: Jacksonville FL
Bikes: 2013 TREK 7.6 FX
Man those have seen better days ! I'm putting the tires on the back burner for a while, since I discovered the over tightened
hubs, it is rolling much faster on the road, winter is coming, and my want to keep a little more grip on one bike. Still have the
Schwinn with road tires, and even after the long ride on the F4 last night, then rode the other a few miles just for fun.
Pains gone, in the upper arms, just the normal old age ones, LOL. I guess my F4 is really just a MTB with racks and lights,
but as one poster put it, A Hybrid is defined by how you ride it. And to me it is a Hybrid, ( Best suited for my needs ), when looking
at where we live, a Hybrid could mean many things to different people. Like my gearing 22 32 44 with 11- 34 9 speed rear, then
I see 10 speed rear, ( 11-28 ) ,with the front like a road bike, and running 30 - 32 mm tires, and call them large, but who starts out
there ride with a 1/2 mile up hill 350' ascent, before hitting pavement, then riding 5 to 10 miles before leaving the road on non groomed
trails for how ever long, then having to ride back. And even the road ride hills are steep and long, so my one do it all bike, ( FOR ME )
is a Hybrid....Very Nice Pictures off your bike builds though, I love building them from scratch, The F4 is in danger of the band saw now.
Want to move the shifters in, and cut off 1 inch both side of the handle bars....There TO wide, did it to my last MTB..Building your own bike
is much more fun, but the dollars can get crazy ! God forbid that Cannondale shock breaks, off to the factory..LOL.. Richard
hubs, it is rolling much faster on the road, winter is coming, and my want to keep a little more grip on one bike. Still have the
Schwinn with road tires, and even after the long ride on the F4 last night, then rode the other a few miles just for fun.
Pains gone, in the upper arms, just the normal old age ones, LOL. I guess my F4 is really just a MTB with racks and lights,
but as one poster put it, A Hybrid is defined by how you ride it. And to me it is a Hybrid, ( Best suited for my needs ), when looking
at where we live, a Hybrid could mean many things to different people. Like my gearing 22 32 44 with 11- 34 9 speed rear, then
I see 10 speed rear, ( 11-28 ) ,with the front like a road bike, and running 30 - 32 mm tires, and call them large, but who starts out
there ride with a 1/2 mile up hill 350' ascent, before hitting pavement, then riding 5 to 10 miles before leaving the road on non groomed
trails for how ever long, then having to ride back. And even the road ride hills are steep and long, so my one do it all bike, ( FOR ME )
is a Hybrid....Very Nice Pictures off your bike builds though, I love building them from scratch, The F4 is in danger of the band saw now.
Want to move the shifters in, and cut off 1 inch both side of the handle bars....There TO wide, did it to my last MTB..Building your own bike
is much more fun, but the dollars can get crazy ! God forbid that Cannondale shock breaks, off to the factory..LOL.. Richard
