Changing forks
#1
Changing forks
I would like to change the suspension fork on my bike to a rigid fork. All the forks i see on egay are too short. My fork measures app. 450mm or 18 inches. Carbon would be nice, but i could make a quality steel fork work. Fuji hybrid with v brakes.
thanks
thanks
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 247
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From: South Yorkshire, England.
Bikes: Colnago CX-1 Record 11sp. Carbon Epic expert 29er, Claud Butler Dalesman. Proflex X-px Works, Cougar 653. KHS Montana Pro, Hercules Alassio. Ammoco Monte Carlo F/SS. Corratec Superbow Fun 29er. Claud Butler Midas. Kenisis T2. Peugeot Perthus.
And your question is . . . . ?
Are you asking if it's possible? I've done it to a Mountain bike, now it's a hybrid/commuter.
Are you asking if it's possible? I've done it to a Mountain bike, now it's a hybrid/commuter.
#3
When I changed my suspension fork out for a rigid fork, I used this one:
https://www.nycbikes.com/item.php?item_id=713
My original suspension fork had an unloaded axle to crown measure of 450mm, but it compressed down a bit when i sat on it. The new fork measures 420mm, which is pretty close to the original suspension fork's axle to crown measure when I sat on the bike.
If you have a second set of hands available, perhaps you should have someone check the actual axle to crown measurement on your bike while you are sitting on the bike. Your new fork doesn't have to be exactly the same, though it should be pretty close so that your bike's geometry and handling characteristics remain like they are now.
https://www.nycbikes.com/item.php?item_id=713
My original suspension fork had an unloaded axle to crown measure of 450mm, but it compressed down a bit when i sat on it. The new fork measures 420mm, which is pretty close to the original suspension fork's axle to crown measure when I sat on the bike.
If you have a second set of hands available, perhaps you should have someone check the actual axle to crown measurement on your bike while you are sitting on the bike. Your new fork doesn't have to be exactly the same, though it should be pretty close so that your bike's geometry and handling characteristics remain like they are now.





