Disk Brakes a fad
#26
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Disk brakes not a fad. Trek did away with the FX disk brake but perhaps more because their DS series is selling well, not to mention the PDX. Just because a manufacturer does away with a certain model, it does not mean some kind of sea change across a market segment, maybe just an internal rationalization for reducing SKUs.
While Trek may have done away with disk FXs, they have also added CrossRip CX/Commuter models to the line.
While Trek may have done away with disk FXs, they have also added CrossRip CX/Commuter models to the line.
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The 7.2 and 7.4 are still available with Disc brakes (according to Trek's website). One of the main differences between the 7.4 and 7.5 is the forks...7.4 and under have alloy. 7.5 and up have CF forks. This may have something to do with the choice of brakes, in addition to the extra weight.
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Trek does have discs in the FX line. My brand new 7.4 has discs on it. I am a clydesdale and will be hauling a trailer with an included child so I while I could have gone with the 7.5 or higher and used rim brakes, I was concerned with descending and over heating rim brakes and popping a tube. The 7.4 disc has an aluminum fork, not a carbon fork.
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Same thinking went into our choice of brakes when we ordered our tandem. Getting disc brakes was a no-brainer.
#31
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As far as brakes being overpowered...
In my experience with discs, a decent set(Mine have been Avid mech and Deore hydraulic) the actual skid power is lower than that of V-brakes. Sure skidding is possible but it is a conscious effort, not an accident. That makes me feel more confident in the braking ability/control on the mtb under high speed situations, wet or snow etc especially on the road.
In my experience with discs, a decent set(Mine have been Avid mech and Deore hydraulic) the actual skid power is lower than that of V-brakes. Sure skidding is possible but it is a conscious effort, not an accident. That makes me feel more confident in the braking ability/control on the mtb under high speed situations, wet or snow etc especially on the road.
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I'm thinking it may have more to do with consumers being addicted to 'features' and 'technology'. For serious mtb biking and cx riding, rim wear due to grit is a legitimate concern. But the average guy that buys a mtb bike or cx bike or touring bike uses it for riding on paved roads and rim wear is really a non-issue. Realistically, after you've paid the difference in cost between brake pads for disc brakes vs brake pads for rim brakes a few times - you paid the equivalent if a new wheel anyway. Good quality brakes will be powerful enough either way and pads for rim brakes are a lot easier to find just about anywhere.
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Color me skeptical that road bikes will start adopting disc brakes en masse. Touring and CX bikes maybe, but not road bikes where the weight weenie-ism has customers spending upwards of $1/gram to shave weight off their bike.
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Acutally I have been thinking about that, wouldnt it make sense to go to the bathroom before a bike ride or just permanently lose 10lbs than to spend thousands of dollars for slightly lighter equipment?
#35
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For pro road riders, there is the UCI 6.8kg limit, as this isn't a hard weight to reach and get well below, you now see more pro level bikes with heavy weight parts added, such as deep section aero wheels, and power meters, both which will add weight to a bike, but the benefits they give out weigh the physical increase in weight, if discs are seen like this, they will become prevalent (once the UCI allow them).
The suggestion of the average rider loosing weight is the best solution for value for money, but it can be harder to loose the weight rather than spending the money for some.
#36
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the serious 'roadie' will do both. There is even contention about hydrating while riding: "Does it add too much weight?"
#37
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My bike came with disc brakes but it was not a consideration when I bought it. In fact, I actually dislike the model installed on my bike and I ended up replacing the front one with a Shimano hydraulic and the brake feel is worlds better than the mechanical one I have on the back. Sometimes I do regret getting hydraulic instead of something like BB7 because a cable operated brake is much easier to field service. I'm not worried about breaking a brake line by having it snag on something, but more like mechanical issues. I mean a cable is pretty easy to diagnose, but hydraulic there are issues like air in the system or accidentally ejecting the piston from the caliper.
However, comparing the feel of Avid BB7 and Shimano M595, the 596 is far smoother and self-adjusting. The original mechanical brake that came with the bike is a bit annoying because every week I have to find the 5mm Allen key and turn the inner pad maybe 1/8th of a turn.
If a bike came with disc brake on the front and V-brakes or something on the rear, I think that would more than satisfy the braking requirements of most people, probably most people won't like the asymetrical setup.
As far as the higher end Trek 7.x FX series, note that all the disc brake models are metal fork even when same rim brake models use carbon forks. For example the previous 7.5FX used carbon forks, but the disc brake model gets steel or aluminum fork; same goes for the current 7.4FX.
However, comparing the feel of Avid BB7 and Shimano M595, the 596 is far smoother and self-adjusting. The original mechanical brake that came with the bike is a bit annoying because every week I have to find the 5mm Allen key and turn the inner pad maybe 1/8th of a turn.
If a bike came with disc brake on the front and V-brakes or something on the rear, I think that would more than satisfy the braking requirements of most people, probably most people won't like the asymetrical setup.
As far as the higher end Trek 7.x FX series, note that all the disc brake models are metal fork even when same rim brake models use carbon forks. For example the previous 7.5FX used carbon forks, but the disc brake model gets steel or aluminum fork; same goes for the current 7.4FX.
Last edited by jsdavis; 09-16-12 at 11:58 PM.
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My bike came with disc brakes but it was not a consideration when I bought it. In fact, I actually dislike the model installed on my bike and I ended up replacing the front one with a Shimano hydraulic and the brake feel is worlds better than the mechanical one I have on the back.
If a bike came with disc brake on the front and V-brakes or something on the rear, I think that would more than satisfy the braking requirements of most people, probably most people won't like the asymmetrical setup.
You often do see asymmetrical configuration with disc. It's very common and useful to have a larger rotor in front than in back. I've even experimented with a 140mm rotor in the back.
#39
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Today riding in traffic at 35km/h in torrential rain with a crosswind I wouldn't have been out there without my disk brakes. My commuter is usually the go to bike for getting to work, but today I took the mtb. Why? Because even the best rim brakes are totally useless if the rim gets wet. I'm running v brakes with Cool stop salmons. In the dry they are awesome. In the wet they are good, but they still need time to dry the rim. Disc brakes don't have that slight pause. When I'm playing in traffic I won't use anything else.
#40
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They are smooth and provide a very controlled and controllable stop. But they stop the bike when it needs stopped -- quickly and with no fuss.
#41
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It took many years for disk brakes to be incorporated into cars. At first they were only installed on high end performance cars. Then as they began to be installed on non-performance vehicles they were still only installed on the front of more expensive vehicles. Slowly, they worked their way down the food chain to all cars. And, even more slowly, they made their way from front brakes only to all four wheels. Today, I am not sure you can buy a car without 4 wheel disk brakes...
This is the same reason my bike has disc brakes. I'm 200-205 lbs, and tow anywhere from 90-150 lbs out back depending on which kids and other stuff in the trailer with them. I tried the level down of my bike with rim brakes and felt that it would be insufficient with any real speed while under tow.
#42
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Not to nitpick this post, but I can name about 15 typical consumer vehicles that are front wheel disc, rear wheel drum brakes. In fact, some of the best selling cars come that way (Honda Civic entry level models are all front Disc, rear drum and have been for over 20 years), true, as you spend more money, the all wheel disc becomes more common, but the point is many cars are still sold with rear drum brakes. mainly for longevity and ease of maintenance.
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The same is true for bicycles: hydraulic disk brakes cost more. (But, they also weigh more which tends to keep them off of the road bikes as well).
#43
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Today riding in traffic at 35km/h in torrential rain with a crosswind I wouldn't have been out there without my disk brakes. My commuter is usually the go to bike for getting to work, but today I took the mtb. Why? Because even the best rim brakes are totally useless if the rim gets wet. I'm running v brakes with Cool stop salmons. In the dry they are awesome. In the wet they are good, but they still need time to dry the rim. Disc brakes don't have that slight pause. When I'm playing in traffic I won't use anything else.
Last edited by Burton; 09-18-12 at 10:31 PM.
#44
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Can't agree with that statement. I'm running Shimano XTR parallel-push V-brakes on one bike and high end Shimano hydraulic disc brakes (with a 203mm rotor up front) and BOTH suffer slightly in wet weather. But part of my commute includes a downhill stretch where I regularly hit over 55km/h and braking with either is excellent. In fact - I can't tell the difference in stopping distances.....and there IS a stop sign at the bottom of the hill.
Interesting: my Cannondale road bike with rim brakes takes 2 or 3 times as long to stop in the rain.
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I'm running Shimano XTR parallel-push V-brakes on one bike and high end Shimano hydraulic disc brakes
#46
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Man GeorgeBMac, I could not agree more! V-brakes, like all rim calipers definitely suffer a great loss of efficiency in the wet due to friction loss between the pads and the rims, and disk brakes lose only a slight bit of efficiency (but you lose more from the lower traction available due to the wet road-to-tire contact). I ride both, and when its wet there is no question about what bike I will ride.
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Meh. V-brakes. Canti-brakes. Disc brakes. They are all fads. Fads, I tell ya.
Give me a good-quality rod-brake:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAHJpu4FDxg
It's all anyone needs.
Give me a good-quality rod-brake:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAHJpu4FDxg
It's all anyone needs.
#48
Senior Member
I'm thinking it may have more to do with consumers being addicted to 'features' and 'technology'. For serious mtb biking and cx riding, rim wear due to grit is a legitimate concern. But the average guy that buys a mtb bike or cx bike or touring bike uses it for riding on paved roads and rim wear is really a non-issue. Realistically, after you've paid the difference in cost between brake pads for disc brakes vs brake pads for rim brakes a few times - you paid the equivalent if a new wheel anyway. Good quality brakes will be powerful enough either way and pads for rim brakes are a lot easier to find just about anywhere.
#49
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That prpblem should be more than just 'interesting' to you. I also run two road bikes, both equipped with Shimano Ultegra brakes and pads and have only a slight drop on performance in wet weather. Your situation is adressable if you chose to address it. Hint: cheap pads don't have near the performance - wet or dry - of high end pads.
#50
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Man GeorgeBMac, I could not agree more! V-brakes, like all rim calipers definitely suffer a great loss of efficiency in the wet due to friction loss between the pads and the rims, and disk brakes lose only a slight bit of efficiency (but you lose more from the lower traction available due to the wet road-to-tire contact). I ride both, and when its wet there is no question about what bike I will ride.