rastallp

Hi All

First Post here so please take it easy on me. I'm a complete noob when it comes to bikes, but I've recently dug my mtb out in an effort to get some exercise. It's a Saracen Mantis SE Mountain Bike. Due to lack of use, it's in excellent condition. I will be riding mainly on cycle routes, a bit of road, and light tracks and so I am looking at trying to convert this bike into more of a hybrid.

I have already switched out the tyres for some Continental Travel Contacts, which has already made a great difference, to the looks (I will upload some updated pics), and the ride. I am now looking at switching the forks for some rigid ones, but haven't got a clue where to start! Is it an easy job? Is it something I should even be considering with this bike? I would like to get the front end of the bike a lot lower, as you can see, it's sat up like a mantis, and doesn't offer the most comfortable riding position.

Any thoughts and feedback are most welcome.

mrevilandy

do you mean the current forks give the bike an uncomfortable riding position? If so a rigid fork wont really help. I have a MTB that has a lockout option and commute 25km one way. A bouncing fork will rob some of your speed but honestly I did a few runs with the lockout and without and there wasnt that much difference as far as times. If anything having the fork not locked was more comfy, but I rather have them in the lockout position =p. I say save your money and ride her as is, and when you know your more serious about it then change out the fork if you still wish to do so, who knows you may want a new bike entirely.

rastallp

Thanks for the reply. I guess my aim is to lower the front end. Seems too high ATM. Stupid question. Can I just fit shorter forks?

kingsqueak

Is that seat high enough for you or was it dropped in the pics? Not sure from looking at that pic that you would want to drop the front end, it looks to me (and that's not a critical eye btw) it was made for a really long clearance fork. If you drop the front too much the bottom bracket/pedal clearance might be a problem.

See what others say.

rastallp

The seat is actually a little too high for me, but I feel I need to have it atleast this high so that it's level with the handlebars.

kingsqueak

Ah o.k. yeah that frame is likely on the large size for you, though for hybrid use that is a good thing. See what others say about the fork length, I wouldn't rush to shorten it without checking on the effects. Unless that suspension fork isn't stock length.

rastallp

Interesting, Why is a larger frame good for a hybrid? Don't you think the forks look massive?

kingsqueak

For trail offroad you're standing up more. For road you're sitting more and don't need the top bar clearance. So having the bars higher compared to the seat is nice for comfortable position.

Yes the fork is pretty long travel. Did it come new with that fork? That's what I'm not sure on.

giantcfr1

The frame and fork are matched for geometry reasons. What other than looks do you hope to achieve from lowering the front end. Do you have 26"or 700mm on it BTW? Basically the best you can do with that bike is what you already have done...tyre swap.

rastallp

I'm not sure if it came with those forks as stock, I bought the bike second hand. So the bike looks to be in a natural position to you?

They are 26" wheels. I suppose I'm just trying to make the bike a bit smaller, as well as improving the looks.

Is my bike any good by the way? I have no idea about these things.

DorkDisk

If that seat position is right for you, that bike is too big for you.

You could lower your handlebars by flipping the stem and switching to a flat handlebar.

giantcfr1

I don't know because I haven't ridden it. Don't worry about it's looks at the moment. Ride it, test it, and work out if it is comfortable first. Then adjust and /or replace if need be.

rastallp

Sounds interesting. I shall google how to and give it a go. Thanks for the tip!

bike0enthusiast

I have a mountain that I considered turning into a hybrid. Even if the seat is too high for you, you should raise it regardless, and you can lower the handlebars as well. I raised my seat really high and now I get on the bike by slipping my leg through the center instead of throwing it over and starting with my butt on the saddle. When I stop I just slowly get off again, have one foot on one peddle and when its green light, or time to ride, just take off. I just barely lowered the handlebars, and raised the high really high and it's a world of difference.

giantcfr1

WHAT???? If the seat is too high, it means he is barely touching the pedals with his foot during his pedal-stroke. If he raises it, his arse and hips will swivel on each stroke which WILL cause damage to his lower body.

rastallp

Yeah, there is no way I could go any higher with the seat. My leg is at maximum extension when the pedal is at it's lowest position now. I'm gonna try flipping the stem tonight. It has quite a steep angle so I can see the bars dropping quite a distance. This might also allow me to lower the seat slightly. Fingers crossed this will get the result I'm after.

Here is an updated pic with the new continental travel contacts on. I will updated after the flip!

[IMG][/IMG]

DorkDisk

you can also try running upside down north road handlebars for a lower position and less reach. sorry, cannot copy-paste with my device

kingsqueak

So when you go to flip your stem, just so you undestand the threadless setup....

Loosen and remove the plate that holds the bars to the stem, gently let the bars down.

Loosen the stem clamp screws

Loosen and remove the top cap and the bolt that holds it.

Slide the stem off and flip it over, leave the stem clamps loose on the steerer tube

Place the top cap back on and screw the bolt in enough to make contact with the whole stack again, don't drive it home fully, just enough to tension the stem so it isn't flopping back and forth.

Install the bars on the stem again. Try to keep the four bolts even as you screw them down, leave them loose enough to move the bars with some friction, but just snug enough to hold them still when you do.

Get your stem and bars positioned where it feels right and is on center.

Once they are settled, snug down the top cap center bolt, don't go too gorilla on it, but set it firmly. With threadless, this bolt loads the tension for the whole stack to work with the headset.

Now set the stem clamp solidly, go evenly on the two bolts and snug it down well.

Now set the clamps on the bars as well, go evenly on the four bolts.

You should be all set at that point.

bike0enthusiast

ah, i thought you meant the seat was high in the sense that you couldn't reach the floor when standing. of course you have to have it so you're legs fully extend.

rastallp

Well I am on extreme tip-toes!

rastallp

Many Thanks for the walkthrough! I will post some pics up of how it looks flipped!

kingsqueak

I'm also still inclined to think that the previous owner installed a longer fork than originally came on that bike...it just looks giant to me, but I'm _far_ from being an expert and have no clue specifically about the bike you have. I was hoping others might know.

Replacing the fork isn't that hard to do, but it's a bit expensive and you'll want to know what the original specs were for that bike as far as the length goes. I'd like to see if your changes make it feel comfortable first before seeing you throw too much money at the bike first.

rastallp

It's huge isn't it!

This would suggest that the fork is original..

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/vie...?f=39&t=197997

https://www.moredirt.com/ratemyride/b...le.php?id=5748

rumrunn6

buy a new bike

mr,grumpy 

That thing doesn't look like it sits right to me. Too "chopperish". It's not a brand that I am familiar with though. Is there any chance that it was supposed to be a "down hill" bike? The forks look much to thin for that but that's kind of the stance that the bike has.

Swapping out the forks is cheep and easy to do. Get a 1 1/8 non-threaded chrom-moly fork from your favorite on-line disributor or Surly. Un-bolt the stem and the old fork will fall out the bottom of the bike. Slide the new one in. It will be the correct length and offset for a "normal" MTB and the steering tube (the part of the fork that sticks up and the handle bars mount to) will be un-cut so you can leave the bars up as high as you like. Order some spacers with the fork, stack them on top of the part that sticks out and clamp the stem on top of those. Bob's your uncle.