Top reasons why I'm woefully slow on my hybrid? Please help
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 239
Bikes: s-works FSR stumpy, custom Lynskey, Trek Madone
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Detroit
Posts: 82
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Tarmac, 2008 Cannondale Quick 4, 2009 Jamis Coda Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sure its part engine and part bike, no doubt about it. But the engine part is way more of a factor the faster you go. In physics class we learned power required goes up with the cube of velocity (as air resistance goes up with the square of velocity). Think about that. This means the dominant factor becomes the engine after all the weight and drivetrain friction arguments had their say. Air resistance becomes the limiting factor to going faster, say about 15mph -- and it only goes up from there. This applies to everything - bikes, cars, airplanes, whatever. Overcoming air resistance is achieved by power.
The bike plays its role in this argument mostly in that its geometry largely dictates your body positioning, and this in turn dictates your cross sectional area - which has an impact on your air resistance. Therefore the main reason a guy is faster on the drop bar road bike over his straight bar hybrid has more to do with the lower wind drag of his shape than anything attributable to, for example, the former has a 105 road group set vs the Acera thing on the latter.
Now think about the frictional losses of (say) the Alfine 11 vs. the (e.g.,) some current 105 derailleur setup one might suspect "solves" the "problem." Say the Alfine is 90% efficient and the derailleur is 95% efficient. The efficiency difference is the same whether you are 5 mph or 10 mph or 25 mph. In other words, you will gain from the increase in efficiency linearly as a function of speed by trading from the one hardware to the other, but that's all the gain you ever get - just 5%.
So I'm strictly in the camp of its mostly the engine and just some of the bike.
But bikes are definitely cool, and your Spot is a really friggin awesome one.
The bike plays its role in this argument mostly in that its geometry largely dictates your body positioning, and this in turn dictates your cross sectional area - which has an impact on your air resistance. Therefore the main reason a guy is faster on the drop bar road bike over his straight bar hybrid has more to do with the lower wind drag of his shape than anything attributable to, for example, the former has a 105 road group set vs the Acera thing on the latter.
Now think about the frictional losses of (say) the Alfine 11 vs. the (e.g.,) some current 105 derailleur setup one might suspect "solves" the "problem." Say the Alfine is 90% efficient and the derailleur is 95% efficient. The efficiency difference is the same whether you are 5 mph or 10 mph or 25 mph. In other words, you will gain from the increase in efficiency linearly as a function of speed by trading from the one hardware to the other, but that's all the gain you ever get - just 5%.
So I'm strictly in the camp of its mostly the engine and just some of the bike.
But bikes are definitely cool, and your Spot is a really friggin awesome one.
Last edited by Bravin Neff; 11-13-14 at 05:59 AM.
#28
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SW CT
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for all of the comments. This is exactly what I was looking for.
A couple of notes:
* I'm using SPD pedals and shoes, which seem to help
* The tires are 28mm, but I'm not sure if they are "stiff" commuter tires that could be improved
* I'm riding the same loop each time (it's beautiful and almost deserted) and tracking my speeds via Strava and a Wahoo SC device connected to my iPhone via Blueooth. Should be completely accurate.
* The route has several sustained climbs that require Me to push hard. Most of these come at the beginning, when I'm not warmed up.
Last weekend I pumped up my tires to 70 psi (close to the stated max), and my speed increased to 14.5 MPH. This was a surprising jump, and I'm guessing there may have been other factors in play. Maybe this thread motivated me.
One thing Im learning is that generally being "in shape" doesn't translate directly into better riding. It does seem like I need to increase my mileage, but this will have to wait until the spring. Short days combined with icy winters here won't do me any favors.
This is thread has also convinced me that I can't blame the bike too much. I'm sure there are much faster ones, but ultimately this is all about my fitness and fun. I'm only competing with myself.
A couple of notes:
* I'm using SPD pedals and shoes, which seem to help
* The tires are 28mm, but I'm not sure if they are "stiff" commuter tires that could be improved
* I'm riding the same loop each time (it's beautiful and almost deserted) and tracking my speeds via Strava and a Wahoo SC device connected to my iPhone via Blueooth. Should be completely accurate.
* The route has several sustained climbs that require Me to push hard. Most of these come at the beginning, when I'm not warmed up.
Last weekend I pumped up my tires to 70 psi (close to the stated max), and my speed increased to 14.5 MPH. This was a surprising jump, and I'm guessing there may have been other factors in play. Maybe this thread motivated me.
One thing Im learning is that generally being "in shape" doesn't translate directly into better riding. It does seem like I need to increase my mileage, but this will have to wait until the spring. Short days combined with icy winters here won't do me any favors.
This is thread has also convinced me that I can't blame the bike too much. I'm sure there are much faster ones, but ultimately this is all about my fitness and fun. I'm only competing with myself.
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 102
Bikes: Specialized Expedition
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Strava may not be telling you the whole story. Find the entire ride of some of the people around your ranking and see. It's either a consistent speed over 20-30 miles (which is impressive) or the KOM guy is pretty much training for the Tour De France (a former coworker / KOM manages to do 25mph's where I struggle to do 12) or some people simply do it one segment at a time, flat out, then the next, etc etc.
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 77
Bikes: 2013 Trek Domane 4.5, Brompton S6L
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have two bikes:
Focus Urban with Alfine 8 speed and Gates belt drive. Very similar to your bike in drivetrain and weight. Weight of that bike is about 25 lbs on 32C tires.
My other bike is my Trek Domane carbon bike with full Ultegra drivetrain, brand name carbon wheels and high performance tires. Weight is about 17 ish pounds.
If I ride my commuting route with is mostly flat, with one hilly section, I can probably average about 1.5 mph faster over the same course (15-16mph) on my road bike.
Sure my road bike is faster, but not significantly so. It certainly feels faster and lively, but in the end, my average speed is still dictated by the engine, me. On the same commute, I’d had people on hybrids pass me. No big deal since I know I’m not a fast rider.
So yes, the bike does matter, but it’s still mostly about the engine.
Focus Urban with Alfine 8 speed and Gates belt drive. Very similar to your bike in drivetrain and weight. Weight of that bike is about 25 lbs on 32C tires.
My other bike is my Trek Domane carbon bike with full Ultegra drivetrain, brand name carbon wheels and high performance tires. Weight is about 17 ish pounds.
If I ride my commuting route with is mostly flat, with one hilly section, I can probably average about 1.5 mph faster over the same course (15-16mph) on my road bike.
Sure my road bike is faster, but not significantly so. It certainly feels faster and lively, but in the end, my average speed is still dictated by the engine, me. On the same commute, I’d had people on hybrids pass me. No big deal since I know I’m not a fast rider.
So yes, the bike does matter, but it’s still mostly about the engine.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 54
Bikes: Trek 7.4 FX, 80's Raleigh Pursuit 12-speed "Sport-Touring Geometry" with fully functional QuickStand, thanks Raleigh
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In physics class we learned power required goes up with the cube of velocity (as air resistance goes up with the square of velocity). Think about that. This means the dominant factor becomes the engine after all the weight and drivetrain friction arguments had their say.
Cool Thread.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Detroit
Posts: 82
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Tarmac, 2008 Cannondale Quick 4, 2009 Jamis Coda Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 54
Bikes: Trek 7.4 FX, 80's Raleigh Pursuit 12-speed "Sport-Touring Geometry" with fully functional QuickStand, thanks Raleigh
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Not a thread-jack (but I'm weak and I cannot resist);
Bike-Puter Hack - One way I found to significantly increase both avg and MAXimum speeds on my rides, is very simple. Just take a 2nd "spoke magnet" (like the one I have left over from when some maroon absconded with my first twist-lock Sigma unit) and mount it on the front wheel spoke opposite the spoke that already has a magnet on it. The other day, according to the computer, I hit max speed near 60 mph!
Bike-Puter Hack - One way I found to significantly increase both avg and MAXimum speeds on my rides, is very simple. Just take a 2nd "spoke magnet" (like the one I have left over from when some maroon absconded with my first twist-lock Sigma unit) and mount it on the front wheel spoke opposite the spoke that already has a magnet on it. The other day, according to the computer, I hit max speed near 60 mph!
#34
Senior Member
My advice to you is to ride your loop backwards, so you hit the hills at the end. The second day, do the same then turn around and ride the loop forwards, the way you currently ride. Yes, I said it. Ride it twice. Rest the next day, then ride it twice again. Repeat. Don't quit. If you don't vastly improve your speed in six weeks time, I would be amazed.
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central, CA
Posts: 633
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a fairly nice hybrid bike -- Spot Brand Acme with carbon belt drive and Alfine 11-speed sealed hub -- and have been riding 30-45 miles per week since last spring. At 44 years, I'm in good shape and work out several times a week doing other aerobic-intensive sports.
After reading forums on this site and tracking my performance on Strava, I've noticed that my performance is woefully slow. If I push myself hard through an entire 15-mile ride, I'm lucky to break 13 MPH as an average speed. My circuit is in a hilly part of Connecticut, but there are very few cars on my route, and zero stoplights. So I'm riding full speed without stopping once for anything.
As far as I can tell, 13 MPH average is quite lame, so I'm trying to figure out what makes me so slow. Here are my ideas:
* My bike is fairly light (22-23 lbs), but I've read that the belt drive and sealed hub have some drag vs a traditional chain system
* The upright position is less aerodynamic (but I tuck now when I go downhill)
* I weight 195 and am not a veteran rider
* The route is hilly, with a long uphill section at the beginning
* I don't wear spandex or anything that might reduce wind resistance
The slow speed shouldn't bother me, but it does. I'm feeling like I might want to swap my Spot Acme for something faster. I like the bike, but I also like the idea of going as fast as possible. Is there anything else I can do?
In most segments on Stava, I'm ranked number 150 or 160!
Thoughts? Any help is appreciated!
After reading forums on this site and tracking my performance on Strava, I've noticed that my performance is woefully slow. If I push myself hard through an entire 15-mile ride, I'm lucky to break 13 MPH as an average speed. My circuit is in a hilly part of Connecticut, but there are very few cars on my route, and zero stoplights. So I'm riding full speed without stopping once for anything.
As far as I can tell, 13 MPH average is quite lame, so I'm trying to figure out what makes me so slow. Here are my ideas:
* My bike is fairly light (22-23 lbs), but I've read that the belt drive and sealed hub have some drag vs a traditional chain system
* The upright position is less aerodynamic (but I tuck now when I go downhill)
* I weight 195 and am not a veteran rider
* The route is hilly, with a long uphill section at the beginning
* I don't wear spandex or anything that might reduce wind resistance
The slow speed shouldn't bother me, but it does. I'm feeling like I might want to swap my Spot Acme for something faster. I like the bike, but I also like the idea of going as fast as possible. Is there anything else I can do?
In most segments on Stava, I'm ranked number 150 or 160!
Thoughts? Any help is appreciated!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Runner 1
Road Cycling
126
05-29-11 04:18 PM