Is there any problem with swapping out?

Reason I ask is that I might be able to make my bike into a real commuter now but in order to do that, I've gotta hit a certain time to make it worth my while (namely about 17 miles an hour or better to make my 17+ mile trip feasible and justified compared to car time.)
I am working on just getting my legs into shape and killing it that way but for the future, is this feasible? I think it should be and that it will just be a slightly skinnier wheel but will I run into problems with hooking up my cassette and all that to it or anything else?

It sure would be easier to put 28mm tires on there ---- or even 32s. For a non professional racer, yu won't notice any difference in speed from 23s to 28s.............. MHO

Not enough information.

1. What is the bike?
2. What is it's rear axle spacing (130 mm? 135?)
3. Disc or rim brakes?
4. 8, 9, 10 spd cassette?

That aside, a wheel change in/of itself will have negligible effect on your average speed/commute time over 17 miles. Primary factor: your fitness (which you mention above). Next: position on the bike. Next: tire type/quality/weight. Those three swamp any effects of a wheel change.

How wide are your rims now? Do you want an extra wheelset so you can swap back and forth between light offroading and commuting without the effort of changing tires? The weight/aerodynamics/number of spokes on your current wheels are unlikely to make a significant difference in your speed. Swapping from a fat knobby tire to a thinner, slicker tire might. Going down to a 28 (or maybe just a 32) tire should be good enough.

When you get the new tires, don't skimp on quality, good tires can make a bike feel much better and be more responsive.

Also at speeds increase, so does aerodynamic drag, having potentially more impact than the wheels. So lowering the handlebar a bit, or otherwise working on aerodynamics will have a benefit as well.

And how much speed to you need to gain? How long does it take you to ride the 17 miles now? As a guess, if you can't complete the ride at a 15 mph average now, you won't be able to modify your bike enough to get to 17 mph. And if you can do 15 mph now, you could probably do 17 mph in a month by getting the engine used to the speed and distance.

Wow, thank you for all the responses. You guys are on it.

The bike is a Diamondback Insight (2013 or 2014, don't remember.) Not the most high end bike by any stretch but when I bought it, I figured I'd just be doing some lazy city riding. Now that I think I can commute on it, I'm trying to make it happen.

1) Not sure of the specs and I need to look them up but I believe it was 700x32. Can I just get new tires that are smaller but keep the same tube?
2) Again, no specs so I don't know the rear axle spacing so I'll have to look it up. 8 speed casette though.
3) I had debated having another wheelset- one for the commute and one for the light trails we have that me and the girl go to every now and then.


I agree that the engine is the most important thing. I've gone about 20 mins out (and then back) and hit 14.3 mph average (combining getting out of the city and then pretty good stretches between lights.) So I'm getting there but not there yet. I plan to (tomorrow or Saturday maybe) go out about 30-40 mins and back which would pretty much put me at total distance needed to get to work but not the elevation (about 600 ft over the last 8 miles or so, so not too bad but something to think about.)
As for the position- would drop bars help? It's pretty upright right now but I think my seatpost is finally right (maybe a hair higher than the 109 rule) to where I can hammer down but not so much that my knees hurt or I jostle back and forth from one side to the next.

Started commuting 2, 3 times a week to work, 21 miles each way on my modified crosstrail last year, quickest I did it was 1 hour 8 mins with a tail wind. Spent loads on a carbon sirrus, made changes to major parts and have only equalled the personal best set on the crosstrail (with 32mm tyres on it) once.

It it was a very strong tail wind but even after 6 months of getting fitter my average mph didn't increase massively. Aerodynamics plays a major part in the average mph department.

Getting drop bars often involves replacing brake levers and shifters, which quickly becomes a very expensive proposition. At that point, you're frequently better off scouring the used market trying to find a used road bike. Yes, it will make you more aero, but cost a fair some. Getting some bar ends for your current bars (or maybe clip on aero bars) would allow you to try out some more aerodynamic body positions less expensively - don't use the clip on aero bars in traffic. The rear spacing will be important for wheel replacement (I'd bet it's 135 mm, but it could be 130). Are the tires knobby or are they fairly smooth? Getting smoother (within limits) will decrease resistance and make you faster, as may increasing air pressure (within limits again).

Is this your bike? 2014 Diamondback Insight STI-8 - BikePedia

As do traffic and stoplight timing. Depending on the route, they can be the most important factor - going from a beach cruiser to a bike ridden in the TdF won't make much difference in some city commutes.

Very true, generally not a problem when setting off at 4.50 am, however, dodging foxes, dead badgers, rabbits and railway crossing have caused hold ups. Hopefully a clear run tomorrow.

It is possible that you can easily change to 'road' wheels, but also possible that it will not be a simple change.
It is also almost a certainty that changing the wheels alone will have virtually no effect, unless there is something wrong with your current wheels (damaged bearings, severely out of true). Changing the tires might make the bike faster - get something with a nice supple casing like a Panaracer Pasela 700X32C or so, and figure out a good pressure to keep them inflated at.

But as others have said, your position on the bike is very important. At speeds above ~15 mph or so, the vast majority of your effort goes into aerodynamic resistance, but also, a more stretched out rider position can often allow you to more effectively put power to the pedals. You can possibly flip your stem over so it gives you a few degrees of drop instead of a few degrees of rise, and/or take any spacers from underneath the stem and put them on top. If you have a 'riser' bar, switching to a straight bar will drop you down an inch or so. MTB style bar-ends can also give you a new hand position so you can bend at the waist a bit and get some more power into the pedals.

All this is assuming your bike already has an upright position but otherwise fits you well. If the bike is poorly set up for the rider, there are not really any minor tweaks you can do to make it better.

Lastly, you could try to find a drop-bar bike like an old ten speed or more modern road or touring bike. They are made for faster and more efficient riding on the road, so if you have one that fits you are probably going to be faster than you would be on a hybrid.

Averaging 17 mph for 17 miles means that you have to be hitting 20+ mph for much of the ride.

I don't have all the specs on the Diamondback, but personally I'd start looking for a lightweight road bike. I haven't quite hit the 20 pound mark yet, but the low 20's is quite feasible, even on a budget.

How much are you planning on spending on the new wheels and tires? $200? $300?

Keep your eye on Craigslist.
There are many used road bikes that show up, at least in the larger cities in the $300 to $500 range.

That said, there are some flat bar bike riders that do well, at least for short commutes.

Plan your route to minimize stopping.

I also hate doing "square corners", and use the left turn lane whenever I can expect for the signal to be tripped, or find a big clearing in traffic if the signal isn't tripped.

My current bike, I built up from a 26" frame with narrow 700c wheels and drop bars. It turned out very nice. However, it was a bare forkless frame that I started with, and I wouldn't do that with very many frames.

I'm not sure about the Linear Pull V-Brakes. They aren't popular on road bikes, but are on just about all other bikes. They should work. However, building a bike into something that it isn't can become quite expensive with mediocre results.

Oh, another last note. I'm using 19 or 20mm rims, but the 23mm rims are becoming increasingly popular, and some research indicates that they are just as efficient as the narrower rims.

Also, try flipping your stem down instead of up - that will make a 14 degree difference, to tuck you a little better. And make sure your tires are inflated to max pressure on the sidewall. Are your legs spinning freely? You can make power with speed, or sheer force! Speed is easier.

I might have to try that. Tucking today felt quite constrained.

Anyway, thanks to your guys suggestions, I went back out and did 12 miles total today. Hit an average of 15.7mph and the max was 30.9mph (which is nice as there really weren't any good downgrades, just a dip or two.) I think shifting and getting my cadence certainly helped but tucking was a big factor as well. So flipping the stem and the seat post should help with that right? I think I definitely need bar ends too as I felt way too tight hunched over.

Nevertheless, that is promising to have that speed average for 12 miles. 5 more and change with a little faster speed would be awesome.

I'm pretty confident that you can change to "28" tires and that this will make a significant difference. If your ride is relatively level and you're in good shape with good stamina, and you don't have to worry about red lights and stop signs, then you can average 17 mph on that bike but it's pushing it (and yourself) to its limit. Hopefully, it's mostly downhill to work so that you can take your time coming home. You will want facilities at work so that you can change and shower. Hydrate well before taking off.

I have a Fuji hybrid that has road bike wheels. My bike fell off the back of the car and needed new wheels. I see no big change in speed. I have the same tires. I feel everyone else is right when they say the tires make more of a difference. My main concern when changing wheels was the spacing. I was lucky.

Nope. 600 feet of elevation over the last 8 miles to work. Should make the ride home easier though.
I will look into tires. Already having 28s is a good thing but if I can get some tires that are better than stock, that'd be nice.
Good tip on the wheels. I think I'm gonna stick with what I've got and maybe get new tires and see how that goes. I'm feeling good about my progress so far with what I've got so if tires help me just that bit more, that'd be great.
Any recommendations?

Are you using toe clips or clipless pedals? If so, that will help. Do you have a bike computer so that you always know how fast you're going? If not, that will help. Are you focusing your effort on maintaining a steady and quick cadence (vs. power pedaling)? If not, try that and it will probably help. Do you make sure your tires are fully inflated? Do you wear biking gloves to avoid hand fatigue? Bike shorts to avoid butt fatigue? All of these things help marginally, but marginal improvement in a variety of ways adds up to significant improvements overall. Finally, have you investigated getting a powered bike - one with an electric assist motor? It would make a lot of sense for someone in your situation.

IF your bike comes with 32mm tires, most likely you can go down to 25mm without issue.

I built a set of "road" wheels for my hybrid. Rear is 135mm "hybrid" spacing.
32 spoke Sun Rims M13 II's, cheap Shimano hubs, 15/16 DB spokes front & rear NDS and 14/15 DB rear DS.
It did make me "faster", but in a different way.
I tend to poke along where my speed varies quite a bit besides the numerous red lights etc.
The lighter wheels make it much easier to accelerate back up to speed, saving energy.
They made the difference between me doing a 50 mile day vs a 70 mile day. (I'm an old guy with bad knees and emphysema, so wherever I can save "effort", it has a cumulative effect.

Down side-
I had to adjust (and ADD) spacers to the brake pads. Pretty much to the point that I barely have enough threads for the nut.
Else the pads will contact the rim at too severe of an angle and want to slide off under severe braking.

Got clips coming in the mail (not ready to do clipless/platform combo just yet). Bike computer is coming soon. Cadence has been my focus of late and has helped dramatically. Tires are at 80PSI (max is 85). Looking at bike shorts and a new seat to make it more comfortable after a little bit of chafing on the last run. I feel good about it but I will also need to slim down what I carry to help keep the weight down and my speed up.

All good suggestions though so thank you. Any recommendations on tires and brands I should be looking at?

And thanks Bill. I might go to 25 tires, might not. 28 isn't bad right now and still allows for some good control.

Contrary to racer orthodoxy, the main difference between narrow tires like 25mm wide and 'normal' widths like 32 mm wide is usually weight, which only makes a difference on climbs and during acceleration, and a slight improvement in aerodynamics at higher speeds. But the wider tires are superior in almost every other way, including control, comfort (allowing longer and harder efforts due to reduced fatigue), and often rolling resistance. But the rolling resistance is often overstated as it is a very small part of the energy equation when you get over ~15 mph. The problem most people have with wider tires, and the reason why they feel a difference when switching from 35mm tires to 23 mm tires is that they are not using the good quality road tires, but heavy thick hybrid tires.

which good quality tyres would you recommend, or short list? I'm tempted to go from 25mm to 28mm, comfort is important and any advice would be appreciated.

Wilfrid Laurier is exactly right. FWIW, suggestions:

1. Fast/light on-road: Specialized Roubaix Pro (the new/current ones) in 25/28 or 30/32, or
2. Conti GP4000 in 28; or
3. Compass tires Compass Bicycles: 700C Tires
4. Lightish/quick on-road and usable on dirt/gravel: Panaracer Pasela TG folding (32), or whatever Panaracer is calling 'em now.

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Thanks for the advise, very tempted to try the GP4000 - currently use the Roubaix Pro but in 23/25. Guess you get what you pay for.

28mm is the narrowest I would consider or suggest using for a commuter bike. IMHO, Panaracer Pasela tires are the best tires I have used in terms of ride quality and rolling resistance. I have only used the non-'tour-guard' version, which apparently are less puncture resistant than the flat resistant 'tour-guard' tires. The non TG version are usually around $20 and are available in pretty much every size commonly used on bikes today.

Other good tires I have used are the Continental 'RIDE' series - not quite as nice a ride as Panaracer Pasela (As far as I can tell - but it may be in my imagination as they are both awesome tires) but have excellent flat protection and a bit more aggressive tread.

Edit: The nice thing about tires is that they are a wear item - meaning you will be replacing them eventually and can try out different tires, and different combinations of styles/treads/sizes/pressures. Tires are the part that makes the most difference to the way the bike rides, and also the easiest to change.