Road Bike Versus Hybrid Bike
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People on here, as on any forum of any kind, are always posting more to convince themselves that they have the right bike or pedals or whatever. Road bikes evolved as they did because it works and it's better for fast or long distance riding. The brake levers on the drops are there for a reason. This is the arrangement that provides the very most secure braking both because you can apply a lot of leverage, and because you hands are already in the very best position to keep control of the bike. The not being able to quickly reach the brake levers in a panic stop situation is just total ignorant bull preached by people who have not ridden serious road bikes in a serious way. I've been riding road bikes since the later 1960's and I've never not been able to reach the brake levers. But, as I've said before, we don't learn anything unless we learn it for ourselves, so unless you ever do get a road bike, you will never know.
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That is how I make careful, thought out decisions. This will be a big decision for me, and the mountain bike may have to go. I don't want to make a wrong move with this because there may be no going back. Unlike other people, I like to have as much information available as possible so that I can analyze the situation better, so that it suits me. There is nothing wrong with doing this.
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All these bike will commute and do 100miles too.
The hybrids will generally make a better commuter(if you have a longish commute a road bike will probably work out better). I find the upright position and well placed brake levers a bonus in traffic.
The dedicated road bikes start to shine when speeds get up above 20-25kph.
You commute already, get a flat bar hybrid which leans towards the sporty side. Your commute will be a bit quicker than the MTB and you'll be able to do 100miles no worries. ( Putting road slicks on the MTB might accomplish the same thing. )
If you end up do quite a bit of long distance stuff a dedicated bike for that is the way to go.
The hybrids will generally make a better commuter(if you have a longish commute a road bike will probably work out better). I find the upright position and well placed brake levers a bonus in traffic.
The dedicated road bikes start to shine when speeds get up above 20-25kph.
You commute already, get a flat bar hybrid which leans towards the sporty side. Your commute will be a bit quicker than the MTB and you'll be able to do 100miles no worries. ( Putting road slicks on the MTB might accomplish the same thing. )
If you end up do quite a bit of long distance stuff a dedicated bike for that is the way to go.
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That is how I make careful, thought out decisions. This will be a big decision for me, and the mountain bike may have to go. I don't want to make a wrong move with this because there may be no going back. Unlike other people, I like to have as much information available as possible so that I can analyze the situation better, so that it suits me. There is nothing wrong with doing this.
#31
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for a 100 mile ride on good roads - then I would definitely go for a road bike. However, there are road bikes that have a very aggressive geometry that are intended for racing and then there are road bikes that have a bit more relaxed geometry that are more comfortable to ride for long distances. I purchased a road bike with relaxed geometry (which puts the rider in a more upright position while riding.) The road bike that I chose was the Cannondale Synapse (however, specialized also has a model - the roubaix - with similar geometry.) The relaxed geometry does not mean that this is not a fast bike. In fact, the professional racing team, Liquigas, rode the cannondale synapse frame in the Paris-Roubaix road race for it's ability to absorb shock (important on the many sections of the race that are on cobblestone) and the comfort provided by the geometry that allows a rider to ride long distances in a more comfortable position.
I also own a steel touring bike that is even more comfortable than the road bike I have. However, this bike is nearly twice as heavy as my road bike and I've noticed that it takes more effort to push this bike along and I feel a really big difference in climbing hills. If you are doing a self-supported 100 mile ride then a touring bike might be the tool since you can carry alot of gear on the bike.
Both bikes have drop bars. The saddle on the touring bike is a brooks b-17 and is much more comfortable for distance rides than the saddle on the road bike. In fact, for a planned 200 mile ride this summer, I am planning on swapping the saddles.
As far as cost goes, If you are serious about cycling, pay for what you want now... or you will just end up paying for it later. I'm of the opinion that you buy a nice bike... it's easy to amortize the extra 400 - 700 over 10 years.
I also own a steel touring bike that is even more comfortable than the road bike I have. However, this bike is nearly twice as heavy as my road bike and I've noticed that it takes more effort to push this bike along and I feel a really big difference in climbing hills. If you are doing a self-supported 100 mile ride then a touring bike might be the tool since you can carry alot of gear on the bike.
Both bikes have drop bars. The saddle on the touring bike is a brooks b-17 and is much more comfortable for distance rides than the saddle on the road bike. In fact, for a planned 200 mile ride this summer, I am planning on swapping the saddles.
As far as cost goes, If you are serious about cycling, pay for what you want now... or you will just end up paying for it later. I'm of the opinion that you buy a nice bike... it's easy to amortize the extra 400 - 700 over 10 years.
#32
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for a 100 mile ride on good roads - then I would definitely go for a road bike. However, there are road bikes that have a very aggressive geometry that are intended for racing and then there are road bikes that have a bit more relaxed geometry that are more comfortable to ride for long distances. I purchased a road bike with relaxed geometry (which puts the rider in a more upright position while riding.) The road bike that I chose was the Cannondale Synapse (however, specialized also has a model - the roubaix - with similar geometry.) The relaxed geometry does not mean that this is not a fast bike. In fact, the professional racing team, Liquigas, rode the cannondale synapse frame in the Paris-Roubaix road race for it's ability to absorb shock (important on the many sections of the race that are on cobblestone) and the comfort provided by the geometry that allows a rider to ride long distances in a more comfortable position.
I also own a steel touring bike that is even more comfortable than the road bike I have. However, this bike is nearly twice as heavy as my road bike and I've noticed that it takes more effort to push this bike along and I feel a really big difference in climbing hills. If you are doing a self-supported 100 mile ride then a touring bike might be the tool since you can carry alot of gear on the bike.
Both bikes have drop bars. The saddle on the touring bike is a brooks b-17 and is much more comfortable for distance rides than the saddle on the road bike. In fact, for a planned 200 mile ride this summer, I am planning on swapping the saddles.
As far as cost goes, If you are serious about cycling, pay for what you want now... or you will just end up paying for it later. I'm of the opinion that you buy a nice bike... it's easy to amortize the extra 400 - 700 over 10 years.
I also own a steel touring bike that is even more comfortable than the road bike I have. However, this bike is nearly twice as heavy as my road bike and I've noticed that it takes more effort to push this bike along and I feel a really big difference in climbing hills. If you are doing a self-supported 100 mile ride then a touring bike might be the tool since you can carry alot of gear on the bike.
Both bikes have drop bars. The saddle on the touring bike is a brooks b-17 and is much more comfortable for distance rides than the saddle on the road bike. In fact, for a planned 200 mile ride this summer, I am planning on swapping the saddles.
As far as cost goes, If you are serious about cycling, pay for what you want now... or you will just end up paying for it later. I'm of the opinion that you buy a nice bike... it's easy to amortize the extra 400 - 700 over 10 years.
#33
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I'm no expert, but as a Trek 7.3FX owner, I would highly recommend test riding both the 7.2FX and 7.3 FX if you are leaning towards the hybrid. I noticed a big difference between the 2 models, the entry level FX felt a bit sluggish, and I'm a newbie.
The LBS was pushing me to spend a little extra and get a road bike, but I love my 7.3FX. Now that I'm training to do a century, sometimes I wish I would have listened, but most of my rides are slower, shorter and with friends who have hybrids or mtb. After I complete the century and feel the need to do more, I'm gonna save up my $ and get a road bike, but I won't give up my hybrid.
Why not go to the bike shop, ride a few and see which one feels the best to you.
Hope that helps.
The LBS was pushing me to spend a little extra and get a road bike, but I love my 7.3FX. Now that I'm training to do a century, sometimes I wish I would have listened, but most of my rides are slower, shorter and with friends who have hybrids or mtb. After I complete the century and feel the need to do more, I'm gonna save up my $ and get a road bike, but I won't give up my hybrid.
Why not go to the bike shop, ride a few and see which one feels the best to you.
Hope that helps.
#34
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I'm no expert, but as a Trek 7.3FX owner, I would highly recommend test riding both the 7.2FX and 7.3 FX if you are leaning towards the hybrid. I noticed a big difference between the 2 models, the entry level FX felt a bit sluggish, and I'm a newbie.
The LBS was pushing me to spend a little extra and get a road bike, but I love my 7.3FX. Now that I'm training to do a century, sometimes I wish I would have listened, but most of my rides are slower, shorter and with friends who have hybrids or mtb. After I complete the century and feel the need to do more, I'm gonna save up my $ and get a road bike, but I won't give up my hybrid.
Why not go to the bike shop, ride a few and see which one feels the best to you.
Hope that helps.
The LBS was pushing me to spend a little extra and get a road bike, but I love my 7.3FX. Now that I'm training to do a century, sometimes I wish I would have listened, but most of my rides are slower, shorter and with friends who have hybrids or mtb. After I complete the century and feel the need to do more, I'm gonna save up my $ and get a road bike, but I won't give up my hybrid.
Why not go to the bike shop, ride a few and see which one feels the best to you.
Hope that helps.
Yeah, I don't think it is really so bad to get something efficient, and "made for" travelling fast, and far.
Road bikes are neat, and the drop bar is really cool too. Really gets aero, and you can feel the wind next to you yelling in your ears, "You will hear nothing else but my song!"
Heh heh heh. Thanks for the post.
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OK, I was just being silly. Your serious. Your efficiency is quite poor.
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#37
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Carcar, thanks. Hybrids are great, and do serve their purpose, but is it really like I am cheating myself that a road bike will be easier to ride and more energy efficient for a century ride?
Yeah, I don't think it is really so bad to get something efficient, and "made for" travelling fast, and far.
Road bikes are neat, and the drop bar is really cool too. Really gets aero, and you can feel the wind next to you yelling in your ears, "You will hear nothing else but my song!"
Heh heh heh. Thanks for the post.
Yeah, I don't think it is really so bad to get something efficient, and "made for" travelling fast, and far.
Road bikes are neat, and the drop bar is really cool too. Really gets aero, and you can feel the wind next to you yelling in your ears, "You will hear nothing else but my song!"
Heh heh heh. Thanks for the post.
Sounds like you've made your mind up for a road bike. If you major reason for the purchase is to ride a century, get a road bike! No question.