chasm54

Must have been the former, don't you think? Kelly was one of the very best. Hard, hard man.

sarals 

But, of course! I'm woman, it's my station to "obey'!

Yes, I did. I'm still working on it. Ex suggested a longer stem. I have a 110 on there now. I'll have to get a 120 and try it. I've got some plumb bob measurements to make on the Look, now that I've read the articles that Valygrl shared.

AzTallRider

The whole torso rotation thing is interesting, complex, and I think somewhat equipment dependent. As I became more fit, I moved my saddle forward, eventually to where it was 'slammed'. I did it to get more torso rotation: a lower position without closing off my hips and losing power. Being further forward also improved cornering. When I got a fitting at Faster, by the same guy who has been tweaking things for the UHC team, he moved my seat back a touch to get my pelvis to rotate more. Especially when combined with a stiffer and wider saddle, it locked me in better, and my torso is more rotated, even though my saddle is further back. My butt still tends to move a bit side to side, regardless of saddle height, but not nearly as much as it did previously. More locked in - less wasted motion. I think the pelvis needs to be properly positioned for the desired rotation (controlled primarily by reach and stack), and also match the saddle design, so the support of your sit bones has the proper angle.

Getting the whole equation right involves some experimentation, which is why a single fit session may or may not be a good investment.

sarals 

It's 139 MM.

sarals 

Breaking News! I found the bike. It's a perfect fit. It's light, stiff, low headtube, price is right. Here it is!

shovelhd

Yathink?

I have been riding and racing for a very long time. I know what neutral means to me, and I'm not there yet. Sometimes it takes a fitters eye and toolset to find the missing link.

Esteban58

Comes in a nice shade of leader jersey yellow...

sarals 

Right? It's just so exotic!

sarals 

Okay, here's some pertinent numbers for my XS (49 cm) Look 566 vs. my 53 cm Bianchi 928.

Reach:
Look - 15.5 inches/393.7 mm
Bianchi - 16 inches/406.4 mm

Stack:
Look - 20 inches/508 mm
Bianchi - 21 inches/533.4 mm

Saddle nose to handlebar center (both bikes have a Specialized Oura 143 saddle):
Look - 19.5 inches (110 mm -7 stem)
Bianchi - 20.25 inches (90 mm -7 stem)

The nose of the saddle aligns 2 inches behind the BB C/L on both bikes, so the saddle position is consistent on both.

It seems to me that one reason I can make more power on the Bianchi vs the Look is what these numbers say: my hips are more "open" on the Bianchi, and therefore I can use more upper thigh/lower torso muscles. I'm also in a slightly better position OTS on the Bianchi than I am on the Look, and because of that I don't tire as quickly on the Italian bike.

Input?

shovelhd

I like to work in mm/cm in all dimensions as it matches the factory specs. It seems to me that you sit up higher and are a little more stretched out on the Bianchi. That sounds counterintuitive but it is possible. Pictures would help. I would be very careful making significant changes during the racing season. Save it for a break.

sarals 

Well, lets see.

The Look

The Bianchi

Gotcha on changes. I agree, but sometimes I just have to fiddle. Nervous energy, I guess!

Esteban58

If that other yellow bike wasn't special enough, try this: https://t.co/Mg2CchxLQP
list price, a cool 25,000 euros.

sarals 

It's the right color. But, I need something more expensive to go with my Ferrari 275 GTB Four Cam.

sarals 

I just ordered a 2013 Cannondale CAAD 10-3 from my local REI. With my REI dividend and a 20% off sale card I got a really good deal on it. It's a 52CM bike (I tried the 50 and 52, the 52 fit was better). Of course, I will translate the fitting I have on the Bianchi and Look to the Cannondale. It has the Ultegra 6700 group, with FSA SL-K compact crankset, 12t 25 cassette, Mavic Aksium wheels, etc. Right away the saddle will be changed, and the OpenPro/PT wheelset will go on it, along with the standard chainrings. I don't know what it weighs, but I'm sure it'll be in the ballpark with my other two bikes. It's supposed to arrive at the REI store on March 28 at the latest. I have a race bike! Now all I have to do is sleep between now and March 28. Tall order!

revchuck 

...for a short girl! Seriously, congrats on the new bike! I'm sure you'll be happy with it. And you're officially out of excuses now.

One thing - if it comes with a compact, the standard chainrings won't fit; compact rings have a different bolt circle diameter (BCD) than standard. The good news is that FSA makes 52t and 36t chainrings with a 110mm BCD, and you can get the pair for less than $100.

AzTallRider

Sounds like a great option, Sara. Exciting stuff!

shovelhd

You can also ask if the shop will swap the compact to a standard. Many people want to trade the other way around. The cost will be less than the chainrings and they won't flex as much. Another option is to use an 11T cassette. 50-11 is a pretty big gear. Aksiums are pretty good training and pit wheels. They're not worth a lot used so it might be better to keep them. Enjoy your CAAD 10.

valygrl

Congrats! Why do you want a standard crankset? Is that what people race there? I race a compact with an 11-28.

sarals 

Thanks, everyone!

Shovel, I don't know the Aksium wheels, but I assumed they'd be good for putting around. I'll probably put them on the Look and use the OpenPros and Eastons on the CAAD. The CAAD comes with Mavic Aksion tires. I know nothing about them, either. I have GP4000S's that will replace them.

Valygrl, I'm used to the standard chainrings. They give me a good gearing range, plus some midrange "punch". The SL-K is BB30, the Ultegra crank I have isn't. Shovel, will I need an adapter to put that crank on the BB30?

With the CAAD 10, I think I have a really good frame as a basis for a solid bike. The Ultegra bike was, after the discounts, the same price as the 105 version, so that's the way I went. I was really serious about the Fuji SST and the Felt FC or F3, too, but I couldn't put either of those together. I don't think I lost much if anything with the CAAD over the other bikes.

It's going to take some riding and fiddling to get it dialed in. That's the fun part! I'll race it on April 6 on the local circuit course. That will be a gas!

What's going to happen to the Look? Nothing. It won't have a saddle until I get another Oura to put on it, so it will probably get hung up in the Cold Garage for a bit and given a break until another saddle comes along. It's been a good bike, a great bike, even. I'm pretty attached and sentimental about it!

Now I can shut up about a new bike - you all get a break!

AzTallRider

I agree with Shovel on getting the shop to swap the cranksets; free or at cost difference. That's the stuff that adds up. I have 2 or 3 compact cranks in the garage. :/. You might need different bearings in your BB30 to fit the Ultegra - another reason to get the shop to swap at cost or free. Stems should be treated the same way: swapped at no added cost.

shovelhd

Wheels Manufacturing makes a nice set of BB30 adapters. They have many kinds, I have the BB30->GXP on the FC. You would need BB30->Hollowtech, and are about $30. They are made out of machined Delrin and pop in and out. They not only adapt the spindle size, they set the Q factor to factory so your knees won't know the difference. I would also ask them about the quality of the BB30 bearings, assuming the shop has a clue. If they have been replacing CAAD 10 BB bearings a lot, then have them swap them out for a good set of stainless steel bearings and avoid the hassle later.

I rode Aksiums as training wheels and pit wheels for the last two years before switching over to carbon this year. They are heavy, not aero, and not very strong, but they are fine for pit wheels and for just riding around. Technically you can have a Mavic wheel rebuilt by Mavic, but you should view them as throwaway wheels if you trash one. I have a good silver front if you need it down the road.

sarals 

4:49 AM??? Oh, that's right. you're three hours earlier. Duh!

Shovel, I've been reading about CAAD BB bearing failures. There seem to be a fairly high incidence of them. I'll tell REI to change mine right away. I'll get a BB30 to Hollowtech adapter, too, and bring that and the Ultegra crankset with me. I don't know how long the stock stem is. That will come a little later. I do know I'm going to have them flip it and slam it.

The Aksium wheels are going to go. I'll bring my Eastons with me and the shop can put them on. The Aksiums can go directly on to the Look. I'll be installing the PT myself (all those WIRES).

I don't know about the handlebars. I prefer a 40CM shallow drop bar, and from the pictures I've seen I can't tell a lot about the stock bars. They look like they're a shallow drop, but the width? They might get swapped, too. I prefer Fizik tape, too, and that would be a good excuse to have that stuff installed.

The saddle won't even see the light of day. Hands down, that Specialized Oura is the most comfy saddle I've ever experienced (Valygrl, what do you use?). So, that comes with me to REI, too.

So do the extra set of Look KeO's that I have.

Oh - that SL-K crankset LOOKS nice, and is supposed to be nice - is it? Not that I'm going to use it.

Finally, am I going to be required to join that "Cult of CAAD" thread over on the 41?

sarals 

AzT, it IS exciting! Finally, a race dedicated bike. One that will work, too!

I did sleep last night. I don't know how.

revchuck 

Sara - I unsubscribed from that thread - too much blatant fanboy stuff.

After I threw all my leftover stuff on the CAAD9 to get it running again, it might end up being my race bike this year.

valygrl

I use a Toupe, 155.

My $0.02- unless REI is doing that work for free, I would ride the bike stock for a while and see how you like it. I think you might find the compact crank helps your climbing, which you have identified as an area of weakness.

Wish that ultegra bike came in my size, I could use a crit bike.