Performance Bike for MTBs?
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Performance Bike for MTBs?
I'm a very experienced road cyclist looking to get into mountain biking. I just wondered if the Diamondback or other brands that Performance carries are decent bikes. I'm looking to spend about $1,000. Don't really know the advantages of a 29er vs a 27.5-full suspension vs hardtail? Thanks for any advice.
#2
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There is nothing wrong with any of the brands at Performance. At $1k you want a hardtail and shoot for something with an air fork. There are tons of articles and youtube videos out there discussing the pros and cons of 29ers and 27.5ers. It is a personal preference.
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At 1000 sad to say but many of the mtb bikes are not great. Much lower value than say a 1000 road bike. They are not terrible bikes for light riding. I would suggest depending on your market looking for a 26 used bike which can be a good value as the tire size is out of fashion.
The 29 rolls faster on flats and rolls over obstacles easier. (my main mtb is a 29)I have ridden the 27.5 or 650b depending on how you label them and the ride very similar to my 26 so much so I decided not to buy one or maybe I just did not find the right bike. They are more snappy easier to turn and supposedly give that little bit on the flats more than the 26
When looking at MTB the shock is probally the most important component (unless you are the minimalist rigid type and nothing wrong with that) Havein the ability to lock out and adjust rebound. In the 1000 dollar range you are not getting a great shock. Next would be brakes. Having good brakes that don't give you fuss and muss is a big thing next drivetrain I think a 10 speed rear cassette as a minimum (indicates a move up in group class)
with a quick look this bike seems pretty good with all the minimums above decent shock good brakes and a well speced drivetrain
Fuji Tahoe 1.3 27.5" Mountain Bike - 2016
The 29 rolls faster on flats and rolls over obstacles easier. (my main mtb is a 29)I have ridden the 27.5 or 650b depending on how you label them and the ride very similar to my 26 so much so I decided not to buy one or maybe I just did not find the right bike. They are more snappy easier to turn and supposedly give that little bit on the flats more than the 26
When looking at MTB the shock is probally the most important component (unless you are the minimalist rigid type and nothing wrong with that) Havein the ability to lock out and adjust rebound. In the 1000 dollar range you are not getting a great shock. Next would be brakes. Having good brakes that don't give you fuss and muss is a big thing next drivetrain I think a 10 speed rear cassette as a minimum (indicates a move up in group class)
with a quick look this bike seems pretty good with all the minimums above decent shock good brakes and a well speced drivetrain
Fuji Tahoe 1.3 27.5" Mountain Bike - 2016
#4
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I'm a very experienced road cyclist looking to get into mountain biking. I just wondered if the Diamondback or other brands that Performance carries are decent bikes. I'm looking to spend about $1,000. Don't really know the advantages of a 29er vs a 27.5-full suspension vs hardtail? Thanks for any advice.
A good rider in good shape can generally go fast over almost anything with any of the bikes. So the better the shape a rider is in the less advantage they see to more suspension for everyday riding.
And not to add to the confusion, but there is also regular mountain bike tires, (2.0 to 2.4 in wide) Plus size tires (2.5 to 3.0 in wide) and fat tire bikes (over 3 in wide). As the tires get wider the better they roll over objects and handle loose terrain. Some people prefer to go with wider tires and less suspension.
Decent entry level full suspension starts at about $1400 to about $2000. But right now you might find last years model for right at $1000 or so.
Hardtail or FS,, the idea of air fork is good one. The difference between a spring fork, an air/spring fork and an air fork might not be noticeable on a test ride, but in the long run it is a significant difference.
For the occasional trail rider, most of this is not going to make a big difference to the amount of enjoyment you get. But for someone that rides a fair amount it quickly becomes that while bikes in general may be pricey, the more expensive bikes, as the miles pile up, become worth the price.
So best advice now that you have way too much information, is find dealers that allow demos or have rentals, and/or find a few manufactures demo days, and mountain bike/fat tire festivals with factory demos and ride a bunch of bikes until you find one that you can't live without.
Be-careful though, many riders find several bikes they just can't live without.
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Yes, an air-sprung fork is what you want but might not be spec'd until you get into the $1300-1500 and up price range. Do you absolutely need an air-sprung one? No, a coil-spring fork is fine but the bike will be a tad heavier and the ride not as plush (think std. mattress vs memory foam--but faster rebound than memory foam). Being a new mtb rider, you probably won't care or realize the difference anyway. You can always upgrade the fork or the entire bike as you advance.
#6
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Just to add, at performance, the Fuji Reveal 1.3 27.5 for $1099 looks like a fair starter FS wtih an air fork.
#7
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I'd agree with others that tire size is personal preference. I ended up finding my MTB used, but if I were to buy new, I'd compare a plus size hardtail with a full suspension. However, the cost of a good full suspension will be way over your budget.
The things I would definitely have on my list again would be the air sprung fork and hydraulic disc brakes. I did not realize I wanted these until I had them.
The things I would definitely have on my list again would be the air sprung fork and hydraulic disc brakes. I did not realize I wanted these until I had them.
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Thanks for all the replies. It is confusing, to say the least. I've got an old Trek 3900 that I've ridden on some local trails a dozen or so times, but it beats the hell out me. Just wanted to upgrade a little. Most anything will be an upgrade I guess. BTW, just turned over 10,000 miles on the road for 2016 this past Saturday. Got five different bikes that I spread out the mileage pretty evenly.
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Thanks for all the replies. It is confusing, to say the least. I've got an old Trek 3900 that I've ridden on some local trails a dozen or so times, but it beats the hell out me. Just wanted to upgrade a little. Most anything will be an upgrade I guess. BTW, just turned over 10,000 miles on the road for 2016 this past Saturday. Got five different bikes that I spread out the mileage pretty evenly.

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One nice thing about Performance is they offer some pretty deep discounts on older bikes, especially through their online "outlet" section. If you're not in a big hurry to buy, just keep checking back and see what pops up there; the inventory changes all of the time.
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Basically pasted from a thread here last week. https://www.bikeforums.net/mountain-b...back-hook.html
- Go here. https://dbcorp.diamondback.com/custo...1bnQvaW5kZXgv/
- Create an account using the password CYCLE4PERK.
- Buy a Diamondback if thats what you want and save a lot. Use local shops for quick need items as they are much more ideal for that compared to selling entry/mid level bikes for value.
You can get a lot of bike for $1000 on the DB corporate site.
- Go here. https://dbcorp.diamondback.com/custo...1bnQvaW5kZXgv/
- Create an account using the password CYCLE4PERK.
- Buy a Diamondback if thats what you want and save a lot. Use local shops for quick need items as they are much more ideal for that compared to selling entry/mid level bikes for value.
You can get a lot of bike for $1000 on the DB corporate site.
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I'm gonna drop the Craigslist recommendation if you have a decent population of riders where you live. I bought by bike two years old for almost 1/3 of new.
You will need to know whether you want a full suspension or hard tail. The interwebs can tell you whether the component set is desirable or not. You've spent a ton of time in the saddle so you probably have an idea what comfort is on a bike (I guess? I don't know if MTB feel weird to roadies usually or not).
I will say the air fork and decent hydraulic brakes changed my world for the better. Where I live it's basically a smorgasbord of 29" bikes - HT and FS. Fat bikes and other tire size aren't plentiful on the used market yet where I am. Results may vary.
May wanna check out Bicycle Blue Book if you head down that road. Just my $0.02.
You will need to know whether you want a full suspension or hard tail. The interwebs can tell you whether the component set is desirable or not. You've spent a ton of time in the saddle so you probably have an idea what comfort is on a bike (I guess? I don't know if MTB feel weird to roadies usually or not).
I will say the air fork and decent hydraulic brakes changed my world for the better. Where I live it's basically a smorgasbord of 29" bikes - HT and FS. Fat bikes and other tire size aren't plentiful on the used market yet where I am. Results may vary.
May wanna check out Bicycle Blue Book if you head down that road. Just my $0.02.
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I am checking Craigslist very regularly for deals. I followed the link and set up an account through Diamondback. They do have good deals on there compared to the prices on Performance. Thanks again for all the suggestions. I agree with the above poster saying that I will wind up with several mtbs. No doubt. I've got a fixie, a TT, a hybrid, a cross bike, and a dedicated road bike now, so it's about to get more crowded in the old storage building.
#14
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$1000 is a pretty good sweet spot for value. You should be able to find a bike with the following:
1) Air fork w/ through axle
2) Hydraulic discs
3) 9 or 10-speed drivetrain
As for 27.5 or 29er. I'd say it goes with sizing. If you're 6' or above you'll probably like the larger 29ers. If you ride small frames, stick to 27.5. If you're in the middle, it can go either way.
For example this Fuji 1.5 is a lot of bike for $900
Fuji Tahoe 1.5 29er Mountain Bike - 2016
1) Air fork w/ through axle
2) Hydraulic discs
3) 9 or 10-speed drivetrain
As for 27.5 or 29er. I'd say it goes with sizing. If you're 6' or above you'll probably like the larger 29ers. If you ride small frames, stick to 27.5. If you're in the middle, it can go either way.
For example this Fuji 1.5 is a lot of bike for $900
Fuji Tahoe 1.5 29er Mountain Bike - 2016
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I was in your position, and opted for this: TIMBERJACK 29 NX1 | Bikes | Salsa Cycles Hope to pick it up from my LBS today.
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Many good comments in this thread. I would try to find a good used bike. Much more bang for the buck. $1K will get you a nice ride. The selections in this thread are all solid.
What part of the country will you be riding in?
What part of the country will you be riding in?
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I will be riding in Southeast, more specifically Georgia, Alabama, and maybe Florida. I actually bought a new Trek Excaliber 8 today. It may not check all the boxes, but it will be a tremendous upgrade from my 2006 Trek 3900. I know it wasn't the best bang for the buck, but I loved the color: Matte Viper Red.
X-Caliber 8 | Trek Bikes
X-Caliber 8 | Trek Bikes