Bash Ring Installation?
#1
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Bash Ring Installation?
How hard is it to install a Race Face bash ring? I'm thinking of replacing the big ring of my Truvativ Stylo crankset with one. Any special tools required? Would the bolt pattern on the crankset match up with the pattern on the bash ring?
#2
one less horse
If you get the correct bashring, the holes will match up perfectly. (The Stylos are probably 4 x 104 BCD pattern, I'm not sure). Depending on the difference in thickness between the bashring and the outer ring you're replacing, you may need longer chainring bolts, which may be included.
Required tools are a crank puller or other means of removing the drive side crankarm, a 5 mm hex key for the chainring bolts, and a Park CNW-2 or similar. You will have to readjust your front derailleur as well.
Required tools are a crank puller or other means of removing the drive side crankarm, a 5 mm hex key for the chainring bolts, and a Park CNW-2 or similar. You will have to readjust your front derailleur as well.
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Thanks. So, what you're saying is that I should have had the shop do it while I was still getting free work done!?!?
I was hoping it would be easier to swap back and forth since I'm not sure if I'll miss my big ring on certain rides. I guess I could get a bigger middle ring in that case and hope it does the trick.
I was hoping it would be easier to swap back and forth since I'm not sure if I'll miss my big ring on certain rides. I guess I could get a bigger middle ring in that case and hope it does the trick.
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You don't necessarily have to pull the cranks off to swap them, it just makes it a WHOLE lot easier!
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Pffft you don't need all that stuff gastro listed. You can just do it with a 5mm alen and a big phillips screw driver. Why you possibly need to remove the crank arm (unless your installing a inner plate)?? But you might have to remove the drive side pedal.
#6
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Originally Posted by FreeRidin'
Pffft you don't need all that stuff gastro listed. You can just do it with a 5mm alen and a big phillips screw driver. Why you possibly need to remove the crank arm (unless your installing a inner plate)?? But you might have to remove the drive side pedal.
That chainring nut holder is four bucks. Don't be a hack.
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Originally Posted by FreeRidin'
Pffft you don't need all that stuff gastro listed. You can just do it with a 5mm alen and a big phillips screw driver. Why you possibly need to remove the crank arm (unless your installing a inner plate)?? But you might have to remove the drive side pedal.
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Originally Posted by Curtis_Elwood
I hear it's the freeriding capital of the world.
Back on topic, if the RF bash ring has recesses in the bolt holes, you may get away without longer chainring bolts. And you should be able to do it without removing the crank arm; 7-8 times out of ten, the inner half of the bolt will get enough bite to tighten from the outside with no more than finger pressure from the inside.
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#10
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Originally Posted by Curtis_Elwood
I hear it's the freeriding capital of the world.
As a2 said, it's much easier to remove the crankarm. Depending on the type of BB you're running, that herculean task may only require an 8mm hex key and could even take up to one whole minute. I guarantee it will take you longer than that to do the swap while it's on the bike.
#11
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Originally Posted by dminor
7-8 times out of ten, the inner half of the bolt will get enough bite to tighten from the outside with no more than finger pressure from the inside.
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Actually, I have an old large slot screwdriver that I ground a vee in (I know, I'm cheap). It all is much easier with the crank off of course. Crank puller should be in everyone's tool box anyway (sometimes even the ISIS interface needs a coaxing)
Oh and I threw in the freeride dig just to see if I could get a rise outa ya, Gastro
Oh and I threw in the freeride dig just to see if I could get a rise outa ya, Gastro
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Originally Posted by gastro
What's the phillips for, to stick up your butt while you're trying to figure out how to hold the chainring nut?
That chainring nut holder is four bucks. Don't be a hack.
That chainring nut holder is four bucks. Don't be a hack.
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I just did it with a 5mm allen key. Slid the bashguard over the pedal/crankarm.
But im a hack
But im a hack
#15
one less horse
Originally Posted by FreeRidin'
all of the ones I have (truvativ) look like they were made for a simple screw driver.
But I did forget about the Truvativs (which are relevant to this thread) so you can remove the screwdriver now.
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Originally Posted by gastro
Try a 6mm allen key next time.
#17
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Step one take race face bashring.
Step two throw away raceface bashring
Step three, go to lbs and buy an E.13 supercharger
Step four follow the directions that come with the supercharger.
Step 5, go ride.
Step two throw away raceface bashring
Step three, go to lbs and buy an E.13 supercharger
Step four follow the directions that come with the supercharger.
Step 5, go ride.
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Originally Posted by gastro
Only because mtnbiker66 lives here.
.
.
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Originally Posted by KonaRider24
Step one take race face bashring.
Step two throw away raceface bashring
Step three, go to lbs and buy an E.13 supercharger
Step four follow the directions that come with the supercharger.
Step 5, go ride.
Step two throw away raceface bashring
Step three, go to lbs and buy an E.13 supercharger
Step four follow the directions that come with the supercharger.
Step 5, go ride.
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Originally Posted by Drunken Chicken
Sure, it's heavy but I don't care about weight and yes, it can only take up to 34T chainrings which is why I might pick up an E13 but apart from that I think it's a nice little bashguard, bombproof.
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Originally Posted by Curtis_Elwood
They just came out with a new one that will cover up a 36T ring. I'm all about Lexan most of the time, but the RF just looks cleaner and stronger.