I am on my very first mountain bike and have encountered repair issue number one.

The pads are dragging on the rear brake... I've tried every technique I could find on centering the caliper to no avail.

The bike is a Specialized P1.

Thanks in advance!

i dont know much about the BB5's adjustability, but have/can you adjusted the pads away from the rotor as much as they can go?

Also, depending on what pad it is rubbing on, you might have to get a spacer in between your disc and your hub. I have to do that on my cannondale in the rear.

If you are using Avid brakes on a standard hub you shouldn't ever need a spacer behind the rotor.

Also, how much rub are we talking about? Does it actually slow the wheel? Disc brakes will almost always have some rub in a few high spots on the rotor. Do you know if it is rubbing the fixed or cable actuated side?

Both my BB7 and my Juicy 5 in the rear required a spacer (on 3 different wheelsets: deore/xt/crossride) in the rear on my Cannondale.

Didnt need one on my Kona though.

Yeah, I dont know. I've set up a few hundred Cannodales and haven't used a spacer so I don't know what to tell you. Perhaps face the tabs?

Seely -

Thanks for the info. This is my first bike with brakes (disc ever) in a long time.

Therefore... I know NOTHING.

I'm going to let it all break in for a bit and see how it goes. It's not slowing the bike at all, I guess it's ok.

Thanks!

the way i did it on my p1 was to loosen the caliper mounting allen bolts, then squeeze the brake lever. then you just tighten the allen bolts back up while still squeezing the brake lever.

Here's what I do on my wife's Jamis w/ BB5's. They need realigned often since you do minute adjustments for pad wear via the adjustable inboard pad adjustment and pulling more cable.

Ensure the wheel is completely in the drop outs and properly secured with the QR. Loosen the cable clamp on the outside and back the adjustable inboard (spoke side) pad as far out as it will go (away from the rotor toward the spokes... assuming you still have good pads left). Loosen the allen bolts attaching the caliper and slide it into adjustment using a business card as a spacer between the rotor and inboard pad. Tighten the allen bolts, spin the wheel to check for rub. If there's no rub and only a very slight gap between the pad and rotor you can now go to the outboard via the cable and adjust it tighter to bring the outboard pad as close as possible to the rotor without rubbing. Tighten the cable clamp and you should have tight, quiet brakes. That's how I do it for any mechanical brakes that don't have both inboard & outboard adjustments, hope that helps. Don't forget to back your barrel adjusters at both the caliper and brake lever all the way back to absolute zero before doing anything...if you're the type of person that uses them to fine tune brakes. They should only be used on the trail for quick adjustment, when at home, zero them out before tuning anything.

Wow, TRG, this is one of the more accurate and succinct descriptions of adjusting BB5s that I have seen in a while. Very good technique, in my view.