$17 MTB frame, shipped
05-02-07, 06:52 PM
#26
NFL Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
Could you explain to me how heat penerates metal when welding? I've never heard that term before, and I'm not a welder, so I'm guessing that it's a welding term.
05-02-07, 06:57 PM
#27
NFL Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ki1022
Shipping is only $7 for a bike frame? No way. I bet you its an error.
My card was only charged $16.98. The image I posted above lists the cost of the frame as $9.99 and the shipping costs as $6.99.
I have the UPS tracking number. UPS lists it as a 12-pound package. It's entirely possible that they have a shipping discount through UPS, and they don't mark up shipping.
05-03-07, 04:43 AM
#28
Old School Rad
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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05-03-07, 09:47 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by wethepeople
All this and no mention of porosity or anything 
05-03-07, 12:03 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by monogodo
Wow. You can tell all that from a fuzzy 72dpi jpeg?
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05-03-07, 02:59 PM
#31
Senior Member
Originally Posted by dminor
It's that CSI Superdooper Forensic PhotoShop no doubt: you know, the one that let's you take captures off of c-store surveillance video and make out the serial number of the bad guy's wristwatch.
I can sorta see the "bubbling" that they welder guy is talking about on the head tube. ah well. It probably wont break if you don't do any hardcore freeriding.
05-03-07, 03:07 PM
#32
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go ahead and bash all you want.
i was browsing around to look for pictures of a bad weld and found this interesting site, im new to biking so this gave me some insight.
https://frugal-bicycling.com/book/print/16
anyways here is my little rant about how u can tell the quality of welds.
^ tig welded steel, about as perfect as you can get. done by BmcRace.com. notice that
a. flat and at a 45 with the metal it is butted up against
b. totally smooth
c. little color changes in the metal around the weld
d. perfect temperature control, weld is even with the metal for the most part on flat surfaces.
^ this is actually a bike frame i found on a site advertising it, if u notice he held the torch too close while welding and it did create the concave appearance. it isnt a huge deal but does sacrifice strength a little bit.
^Mig weld. Very well done mig weld, but because of the nature of mig'ing items, the integrity is sacrificed compared to most other types of fabrication methods
i think the bike was mig welded because,
unless the machine you are using is very very expensive, and a perfect argon shield, and nice materials in your wire, then one will have a rougher more bubbly weld.
so, riding around the streets and **** will probably be fine. i wouldnt trust popping to many wheelies or even going down a few stairs.
i was browsing around to look for pictures of a bad weld and found this interesting site, im new to biking so this gave me some insight.
https://frugal-bicycling.com/book/print/16
anyways here is my little rant about how u can tell the quality of welds.
^ tig welded steel, about as perfect as you can get. done by BmcRace.com. notice that
a. flat and at a 45 with the metal it is butted up against
b. totally smooth
c. little color changes in the metal around the weld
d. perfect temperature control, weld is even with the metal for the most part on flat surfaces.
^ this is actually a bike frame i found on a site advertising it, if u notice he held the torch too close while welding and it did create the concave appearance. it isnt a huge deal but does sacrifice strength a little bit.
^Mig weld. Very well done mig weld, but because of the nature of mig'ing items, the integrity is sacrificed compared to most other types of fabrication methods
i think the bike was mig welded because,
unless the machine you are using is very very expensive, and a perfect argon shield, and nice materials in your wire, then one will have a rougher more bubbly weld.
so, riding around the streets and **** will probably be fine. i wouldnt trust popping to many wheelies or even going down a few stairs.
05-03-07, 03:35 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
^Mig weld. Very well done mig weld, but....
Originally Posted by While At Rome
...because of the nature of mig'ing items, the integrity is sacrificed compared to most other types of fabrication methods...unless the machine you are using is very very expensive, and a perfect argon shield, and nice materials in your wire, then one will have a rougher more bubbly weld.
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05-04-07, 12:20 PM
#34
NFL Owner
Thread Starter
The frame was delivered an hour ago. I just got home for lunch and unpacked it. While the welds look ugly, they also look fine. It's not like I'm going to race it or do anything hard core with it. I'm pretty much planning on building it up as a cheap SS for road & light trail use.
Good news, all the decals on it are stickers over the clearcoat, so they'll peel right off.
Now to find parts for it...
Originally Posted by the wonginator
that's actually really, really cool.
i hope the top image logo is a sticker
i hope the top image logo is a sticker
Now to find parts for it...
05-04-07, 01:19 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by monogodo
The frame was delivered an hour ago. I just got home for lunch and unpacked it. While the welds look ugly, they also look fine. It's not like I'm going to race it or do anything hard core with it. I'm pretty much planning on building it up as a cheap SS for road & light trail use.
Good news, all the decals on it are stickers over the clearcoat, so they'll peel right off.
Now to find parts for it...
Good news, all the decals on it are stickers over the clearcoat, so they'll peel right off.
Now to find parts for it...
05-04-07, 01:47 PM
#36
NFL Owner
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by zoeglassjd
Can you give us an actual weight on the frame?
05-04-07, 05:06 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
go ahead and bash all you want.
i was browsing around to look for pictures of a bad weld and found this interesting site, im new to biking so this gave me some insight.
https://frugal-bicycling.com/book/print/16
anyways here is my little rant about how u can tell the quality of welds.
^ tig welded steel, about as perfect as you can get. done by BmcRace.com. notice that
a. flat and at a 45 with the metal it is butted up against
b. totally smooth
c. little color changes in the metal around the weld
d. perfect temperature control, weld is even with the metal for the most part on flat surfaces.
^ this is actually a bike frame i found on a site advertising it, if u notice he held the torch too close while welding and it did create the concave appearance. it isnt a huge deal but does sacrifice strength a little bit.
^Mig weld. Very well done mig weld, but because of the nature of mig'ing items, the integrity is sacrificed compared to most other types of fabrication methods
i think the bike was mig welded because,
unless the machine you are using is very very expensive, and a perfect argon shield, and nice materials in your wire, then one will have a rougher more bubbly weld.
so, riding around the streets and **** will probably be fine. i wouldnt trust popping to many wheelies or even going down a few stairs.
i was browsing around to look for pictures of a bad weld and found this interesting site, im new to biking so this gave me some insight.
https://frugal-bicycling.com/book/print/16
anyways here is my little rant about how u can tell the quality of welds.
^ tig welded steel, about as perfect as you can get. done by BmcRace.com. notice that
a. flat and at a 45 with the metal it is butted up against
b. totally smooth
c. little color changes in the metal around the weld
d. perfect temperature control, weld is even with the metal for the most part on flat surfaces.
^ this is actually a bike frame i found on a site advertising it, if u notice he held the torch too close while welding and it did create the concave appearance. it isnt a huge deal but does sacrifice strength a little bit.
^Mig weld. Very well done mig weld, but because of the nature of mig'ing items, the integrity is sacrificed compared to most other types of fabrication methods
i think the bike was mig welded because,
unless the machine you are using is very very expensive, and a perfect argon shield, and nice materials in your wire, then one will have a rougher more bubbly weld.
so, riding around the streets and **** will probably be fine. i wouldnt trust popping to many wheelies or even going down a few stairs.
LOL!!!!!!!!! This guy is so funny!!!!!!!! Again, how can you conclude that the welds are crap just by looking at a low resolution pic?? LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!
05-04-07, 10:31 PM
#38
NFL Owner
Thread Starter
Using the very unscientific method of holding the frame while standing on the scale, then weighing myself without the frame, I get a frame weight of 5.6 pounds.
05-07-07, 11:21 PM
#39
If its Retro its "IN"
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I bought the same frame too, please post pictures once you finished you built....love to see the end result. Can't go wrong with $17 frame.
