As to Why do it at all my answer is simply money. I commute in winter and like dropbars far better than a usual mtb-setup. The salt they use on the roads here will kill your bike fairly rapidly anyway so the mtb-conversion gets me a very cheap (expendable)winterbike with wide studded tires and the riding position I happen to like best.

Only for the last 21 years.

Link with the details below.

If your range of motion was reduced it would have been because the bike was not setup for you. I have a greater range of motion with dropbars than straight bars. It is one of the reasons I use them.

Kye Sharp was once ranked in the top 10 MTB racers in the US, and he had some variation of drops on at least one of his bikes back in the 1980's. Of course, he also spent a lot of time hitting his bong and bongoes.

Which bars are those, shiggy, and where can I get some?

Yes, I have done it. Back when I was training for a double century and all I had was an MTB. I just pipe clamped a set of drop bars to the standard flat handlebars, giving more hand positions. Did a 135 mile ride up the Santa Ana River Trail to the San Andreas Fault Zone and back the next weekend. Got a Volpe to do the double on a month later.

On-One Midge. Webcyclery.com, Zedsport.com or your LBS can order from BTI.

Here's my long serving commuter bike - a Marin Pine Mountain MTB -now with Campag Centaur.


And Here's my latest creation - A Scott Scale 30-XC again with Campag Centaur and BB7roads.
Every few years, I forget that I just don't get along with flat bars, so I buy another MTB.
The Scott lasted 3 rides before I upgraded it. Now I'm very very happy with it.



PS: It's a myth you need a shorter stem - look how far back the seat is on the Marin - one day I will get change the stem from a 90 to 110mm.

No, not a myth. I need a shorter one on my ride, and it's why I said above "probably" need shorter, not that he would. Everybody fits differently.

And how far your rails are slid back on that bike just makes me think you need a longer top tube. Actually, both bikes. But then again, see above.

Using a shorter stem is not a myth if you intend on riding in the drops (which is where the bars are best used off road). Saddle position is not used to adjust for reach to the bars. You set the saddle to put the rider over the BB/pedals properly, then adjust the stem length for reach (hopefully your TT length is in the useable range).

I could never use the bars on the Scott as you have removed the position I use 85% of the time and the bars are a bit low if the hooks were still there.

Right now the, the bars on the Scott are an inch closer and an inch higher ( when sitting on the bike - to sag the forks ), than the Marin commuting bike. If I find that's not enough, and I start becoming unstuck, I will do as you suggest and look at a long riser stem and try un-cut drops on it. I did try a short Ritchey adjustable riser stem, before I cut the bars - but it did not feel right.

Both frames are Mediums and I'm 5ft8". But I've always had hand pains on flat bars as supplied, despite bar ends - but the reach to the hoods sorts this out for me. Maybe I'm just a different size from the standard fit - scrublover's comment.

Sorry to bring this older thread back to life, but what are these Travel Agents that they are talking about here? I am converting to drop bars and road brake levers on one of my mtb single speeds and wanted to run v-brakes with it. Is this where the Travel Agents come in at? Who makes them? Thanks.

They're made by Avid. You can purchase them from Precision Tandems, which kindly donated this photo:

It's a sad day when some "lurker" strolls right in and thinks he can start ripping on a respected member of the community w/o any recourse.

Agreed.

I know I'm throwing that word around willy-nilly, eh?

Shiggy pretty much has it covered for drop bars on an off-road bike.

I race cyclocross and put On-One's Midge bar in place of the standard drops. In addition to racing cyclocross, I also take my CX bike out on the same trails as I used to ride my MTB. The Midge is quite a bit wider than a conventional drop bar.

I can say that the Midge bar beats the tar out of a conventional straight bar with bar ends. The key adjustment to make is to get a high-rise stem. You can't just put a drop bar in your existing stem. You'll wind up leaning too far forward and that will make you feel less secure.

When you've got your drops set up right-- riding in the drops/hooks is an incredibly secure feeling.

That said, I'm switching my MTB over to drops-- Midge, natch.

Pretty scary when a hack like me can get a tag like that. When did that happen anyway?

oh I think its mostly senority

I find some of the attitudes being displayed in this thread a bit much. This thread could be totally informative if some of you would just shut up and read if you have nothing informative to offer...

Dirt Rag has a great article on alternative bars and setting them up in the new issue (#130) and the website has a great piece on the WTB bar that Webcyclery has for sale. Here is a link to that article:
https://dirtrag.com/print/article.php...=stuff_reviews

Enjoy!

Oh please (and I know I'm kickin' this dead thread wide open again). OP was yammering about drop bars on an MTB. I thought it was silly. So I poked a little fun visually. Get over yourself. I still think it's silly. If all I rode was fireroads and buff singletrack, maybe putting drop bars on an MTB would be a fun counterpoint 'statement' to make. But I don't.

Besides, dual-crown forks just kinda lend themselves to the ol' moto clip-ons treatment. A drop bar with a little cache. They also make it easier to grab on for a 'flat track tuck':

Shimano 105 STI levers work fine with MTB rear derailleurs - my tourer has XT at the back - and a Tiagra front, that works with a MTB-style crank/chainring setup.

Beware of your brake setup - you may want cable-actuated discs - road levers won't work with Vs (unless you use diacompe v-brake compatible levers, or a Travel Agent or other device to change the cable pull, or mini-Vs). Also, I think the combination of cantilever brakes and drops makes it too hard to get reliably adequate braking for off-road use.

A number of places offer "dirt drops" which flare out, eg. on-one. Never tried 'em. Also, you can get pretty wide drops from Nitto, wide is good for off-road.

A steerer extender if your bars are low would be advisable. Despite the pic on page 1, I don't think a road-racing posture is ideal for off-road unless you really know what you are doing. Downhills get pretty scary. At least braking from the drops is more secure than from on top.

BTW, after off-roading a bit on a touring bike (nothing too technical), I'm getting a flat-bar MTB. I find that long bar ends are almost as good as drops, you only really lose one hand position (drops, tight tuck) which I hardly ever use anyway.

Have you considered test-riding a cyclocross bike to see if you like the feel? Maybe there is a club near you, someone might let you try an old bike.

Actually they are Problem Solvers/QBP Travel Agents. Similar in appearance only to the Avid Rollamajig.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...?category=1595

Thanks. Actually, I just learned that mini v-brakes work with standard road brake levers and I can get some Tektro mini's for pretty cheap. I may just go this route.

Man, what forced open your sphincter, crawled up in there and squeezed your grumpy muscle?