Full Circle: going back to full rigid.
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,096
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From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: IRO Model 19, Surly Crosscheck, 1989 Arnie Nashbar, Cannondale CAADX, Niner Air 9
Full Circle: going back to full rigid.
After determining that my handling problems stemmed from my forks (03 Marzocchi EXR's), and researching shorter travel options, I've decided to go back to a rigid fork. I ride a hardtail (always will) and am excited to go back to the days when I first started mountain biking. Not that there is anything wrong w/ my current suspension fork (it's a great product), it's just that the 100 mm of travel set my front end up a little too high for ideal cornering. I've noticed a lot of turn in instabilitily and the front end is too light on climbs. I'll be installing a Surly 1x1 rigid steel fork corrected for 80 mm, I think this will: lower the front end and increase rigidity. And, since I ride xc, I can still deal w/ the small drops and jumps adequately w/out the need for suspension.
Who else has done this and what were the results?
Who else has done this and what were the results?
#2
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Here is a hint, when steering with a higher front end move your hips forward. You will find, especially at speed, that your turning is MORE stable, not less. Downhillers are some of the fastest at taking turns and their front end is signifigantly higher than their rear. Watch motocross too. Same thing, they are basically humping the bar into turns.
I am not saying not to go to rigid, all the power to you, but you could change your technique and end up faster.
I am not saying not to go to rigid, all the power to you, but you could change your technique and end up faster.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 360
From: Paradise, TX
Bikes: Soma Pescadero, Surly Pugsly, Salsa Fargo, State Warhawk, Gravity SS, Schwinn Klunker
Remember, don't hold on to the handlebars. Just rest your hands on them and sort of hover over them on the rough sections of trail. Your shoulders and neck will thank you.
#4
It's a moral imperative
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Live Free or Die
Bikes: 2006 Redline Monocog 29, 2001 Jamis Durango (Mod SS), 2005 IBEX Aprisa custom build
i returned to rigid this year as well but my decision wasnt based on the rigid vs. suspension debate. I wanted to try riding big wheels (29er) and found the redline monocog 29 frame/fork real cheap. Getting reacquainted with riding rigid has been interesting.
Picking good lines becomes paramount, and depending on what you typically ride for terrain the punishment isnt quite as bad as some people make it out to be. i ride fairly technical New England rocks and roots primarily.
the bigger wheels help a lot and I also went with carbon bars to try and absorb some chatter and nice big cushy Oury grips and some roadie gloves with plush padding on the palms. I have been racing that bike this year on courses around 20 miles or so and havent crashed or experienced much more fatigue due to the rigid fork. then again im only 25 and can still take some punishment and recover so my opinion might be bias a bit, i might be paying for this in a few years...
Picking good lines becomes paramount, and depending on what you typically ride for terrain the punishment isnt quite as bad as some people make it out to be. i ride fairly technical New England rocks and roots primarily.
the bigger wheels help a lot and I also went with carbon bars to try and absorb some chatter and nice big cushy Oury grips and some roadie gloves with plush padding on the palms. I have been racing that bike this year on courses around 20 miles or so and havent crashed or experienced much more fatigue due to the rigid fork. then again im only 25 and can still take some punishment and recover so my opinion might be bias a bit, i might be paying for this in a few years...
#7
Should be riding
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,602
Likes: 0
From: S.E. Michigan
Bikes: C-dale- moutain, Pedal Force RS- Campy Record, Quiring Ti XTR, Red line Monocog, S E F@r
I ride with a fellow that just went to a rigid 29er for racing. He's a bigger guy, Clydesdale, and loves it. He sprung for a CF fork though. I don't know how much difference the fork makes but he doesn't seem to be bothered by it all. Even in chatty stuff, he doesn't complain. He is running ergon grips but will be moving to foam for weight savings.
I want to try his bike out and see what I think. I'm interested in it but not committed, yet. A couple people I know are starting to go "old school" for light weight.
I want to try his bike out and see what I think. I'm interested in it but not committed, yet. A couple people I know are starting to go "old school" for light weight.
#8
Really, you've only gone back "half circle" instead of "full circle" mjw16. If you have always ridden a hardtail and not a dually then you've not completely seen the other side of things to be able to come back full circle.
Anyway...as stated by another poster, your handling "problem" is not your fork it's your technical level in relationship to your fork. I'm not trying to slam you and say you can't ride b/c you could probably ride me into the ground. I ride a "new-fangled" dual suspension trail bike that rides kinda high in the front compared to my other bike which is an 80's vintage Raleigh Pointe that is full-on rigid. (even a quill stem)
The dually does steer differently, but I wouldn't say it's a problem. It's just different.
Maybe what you should think about is an 80mm suspension fork to cure your "fork problem". I don't think you should stay away from totally rigid, but I can say that on bumpy trails...I'm faster with suspension. Even if it's just a hardtail with a suspension fork.
Anyway...as stated by another poster, your handling "problem" is not your fork it's your technical level in relationship to your fork. I'm not trying to slam you and say you can't ride b/c you could probably ride me into the ground. I ride a "new-fangled" dual suspension trail bike that rides kinda high in the front compared to my other bike which is an 80's vintage Raleigh Pointe that is full-on rigid. (even a quill stem)
The dually does steer differently, but I wouldn't say it's a problem. It's just different.
Maybe what you should think about is an 80mm suspension fork to cure your "fork problem". I don't think you should stay away from totally rigid, but I can say that on bumpy trails...I'm faster with suspension. Even if it's just a hardtail with a suspension fork.
#9
DNPAIMFB
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,655
Likes: 0
From: Cowtown, AB
Bikes: Titus El Guapo, Misfit diSSent, Cervelo Soloist Carbon, Wabi Lightning, et al.
Originally Posted by Phatman
I've got a full rigid single speed as my only bike. Its hard. Your wrists WILL hurt after 2 and a half hours of riding. I wouldn't run a rigid as your only bike if you plan to ride fairly often.
#10
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I have a full rigid single speed as my only bike, and I ride often (daily if I can manage), including some long endurance rides. With a good set up and on appropriate terrain (rocky & rooty New England single track up here), I do not feel it has held me back. I did not spend a lot of time on a suspension bike (1 year on a hardtail), so I might not know what I am missing, but three years into rigid single speeding, and I am digging it.
#11
Originally Posted by mjw16
After determining that my handling problems stemmed from my forks (03 Marzocchi EXR's), and researching shorter travel options, I've decided to go back to a rigid fork. I ride a hardtail (always will) and am excited to go back to the days when I first started mountain biking. Not that there is anything wrong w/ my current suspension fork (it's a great product), it's just that the 100 mm of travel set my front end up a little too high for ideal cornering. I've noticed a lot of turn in instabilitily and the front end is too light on climbs. I'll be installing a Surly 1x1 rigid steel fork corrected for 80 mm, I think this will: lower the front end and increase rigidity. And, since I ride xc, I can still deal w/ the small drops and jumps adequately w/out the need for suspension.
Who else has done this and what were the results?
Who else has done this and what were the results?
i'd first suggest maybe trying a lower-rise stem, or flipping the stem. I have always had a similar feeling with stock setups and end up going to a lower stem. 2 hardtails and 2 fullsuspension bikes. The most night-n-day was my Titus racer-x: with the 10degree rise 90mm stem it was tall, tippy, poor vauge steering... flipped it to -10 and the bike is amazing
try it, you might like it, and it's free or cheap compared to a new fork. my bikes end up being set up with very racey geometry, handlebar well below the saddle, but any higher and it loses steering feel & climbing ability.
best o luck
#12
Senior Member

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,398
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On a rigid bike, you have to do a lot of the work the suspension was doing for you. You have to suck up the hits. Once you ride it for a while, you get used to it. I ride a 29er with a big 2.35" tire up front and there are only a few places on my local trails where I think a suspension fork would be useful.
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,096
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From: Alexandria, VA
Bikes: IRO Model 19, Surly Crosscheck, 1989 Arnie Nashbar, Cannondale CAADX, Niner Air 9
I am also considering an 80 mm fork, problem is spending $300 to $600 on a new Fox or Marzocchi, gotta watch the funds after buying our new house. I've been searching Ebay as well for older Marzocchis but having a problem finding one with a long enough steerer, most have been cut too short. I'm aware of how to compensate for a taller (longer travel) fork, it's just that a lower more rigid front end will improve handling that much more. For my type of riding I really think the rigid fork will give me more of what I'm looking for in the way of high speed, technical handling. I'm not doing huge drops or riding for longer than 2 to 3 hours typically, besides I'll keep the Marzocch's around to switch out when I choose to do a longer ride where shocks may be necassary. I should get the new forks today and have them on by next weekend. I'll report on their performance after my first ride.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 326
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: trek 6700 mtb, raleigh rush hour
you can get a rock shox tora 318 for about $250, it can be set up for 80mm of travel. i have one on an SS hardtail, and it's an excellent set up (i'm riding in new england like a lot of other folks here).





