Is this bad?
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
Is this bad?
So as not to jack the "Chain Stretch" thread I'm going to make this one.
My '03 Hahanna still has the original chain. It's never been fully removed unless the dealer took it off at the six month or whatever free service. That would have been over three years ago.
How bad does this look?



My '03 Hahanna still has the original chain. It's never been fully removed unless the dealer took it off at the six month or whatever free service. That would have been over three years ago.
How bad does this look?



#2
Low car diet
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,407
Likes: 4
From: Corvallis, OR, USA
Bikes: 2006 Windsor Dover w/105, 2007 GT Avalanche w/XT, 1995 Trek 820 setup for touring, 201? Yeah single-speed folder, 199? Huffy tandem.
It's difficult to tell just from pics--except that everything is dirty (by the way, a cleaner drivetrain will last longer).
Take a ruler and measure 12 links of the chain beginning at the center of any pin. The 24th pin (you don't have to count--it should be obvious) on a brand new chain will be at the 12" mark. If not, estimate how much further it is (1/32", 1/16", 1/8"). Once it has reached 1/8" it needs to be replaced (but preferably sooner). If you let it go too long, the stretched chain makes the teeth of the cassette and chainrings conform to the new pitch of the chain (i.e., wear excessively).
If your chain is past the 1/8" mark, you will need a new cassette (and possibly chainrings) when you replace the chain or else everything will not mesh properly and skip around.
Take a ruler and measure 12 links of the chain beginning at the center of any pin. The 24th pin (you don't have to count--it should be obvious) on a brand new chain will be at the 12" mark. If not, estimate how much further it is (1/32", 1/16", 1/8"). Once it has reached 1/8" it needs to be replaced (but preferably sooner). If you let it go too long, the stretched chain makes the teeth of the cassette and chainrings conform to the new pitch of the chain (i.e., wear excessively).
If your chain is past the 1/8" mark, you will need a new cassette (and possibly chainrings) when you replace the chain or else everything will not mesh properly and skip around.
#8
unofficial roadie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 0
From: Out in the woods you see
Bikes: 2004 Marin bobcat trail, 2006 trek fuel ex7, 2007 iron horse road bike
If you leave the chain on a bike or 3 years and it's not total toast you must not be riding hard enough... Also I suggest having a cassette on hand or a least make sure you can get one before changing the chain as it is likely to slip around on the cassette evn on one with no visual damage. I think you have an 8 speed.. I had to order an 8 speed cassette as no bike shop in town had one under 55 bucks..
edit.. can't tell if it is 8 or 9 speed from the pics
edit.. can't tell if it is 8 or 9 speed from the pics
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
If you leave the chain on a bike or 3 years and it's not total toast you must not be riding hard enough... Also I suggest having a cassette on hand or a least make sure you can get one before changing the chain as it is likely to slip around on the cassette evn on one with no visual damage. I think you have an 8 speed.. I had to order an 8 speed cassette as no bike shop in town had one under 55 bucks..
edit.. can't tell if it is 8 or 9 speed from the pics
edit.. can't tell if it is 8 or 9 speed from the pics
And I only really starting riding this year..
#10
unofficial roadie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 0
From: Out in the woods you see
Bikes: 2004 Marin bobcat trail, 2006 trek fuel ex7, 2007 iron horse road bike
I got an awesome 5 dollar 8 speed cassette from nashbar.. trust me if you change the chain be sure to have one.. if you don't need it you'll need it if you wear another chain for sure
#11
OP...ride as hard or easy as you feel comfortable. If you only go through a chain in 3 years, good on ya! I'm envious. If you go through several a year...welcome to the club, but don't let somebody tell you that you aren't cutting the mustard b/c your bike lasts longer than his.
#13
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
See my last post, I only started really riding this year. Anything in the last couple was just a bit of road stuff, I've ridden a lot harder this summer than ever before and look foreword to continuing that trend next year
That is after this baby gets rebuilt, at least somewhat. Too bad I am pretty much uber-noob when it comes to technical bike stuff..
On a related note, what are these gears?
That is after this baby gets rebuilt, at least somewhat. Too bad I am pretty much uber-noob when it comes to technical bike stuff..
On a related note, what are these gears?
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: Blo-no, IL
Bikes: 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport, 1970's Miyata Liberty ala fixed gear
They are called jockey wheels, which are part of your derailleur, which is what shifts the chain from cassette ring to cassette ring. They help keep tension on your chain via the spring/s in the derailleur, and help guide the chain when you shift. And you don't need to replace them since there is not much force being imparted on them in a pedal stroke.
#17
What the?
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Ok...sorry, but I couldn't resist 
The upper gear(or cog) is called the jockey pulley...it guides the chain from one sprocket to the next on the cassette.
The lower gear is called the tension pulley...and it keeps tension on the chain throughout the different gear combinations.

The upper gear(or cog) is called the jockey pulley...it guides the chain from one sprocket to the next on the cassette.
The lower gear is called the tension pulley...and it keeps tension on the chain throughout the different gear combinations.
#18
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
Ah ok. Pull 'em off and clean them really good should suffice then?
Should I look into getting a..um.. front.. cassette... thing while I'm at it, or are the effects mostly on the rear?
What do I need to know about buying deraileurs? I'm not sure the front one is entirely healthy...
Also, roughly how much can I expect to pay to have a rim straightened?
Should I look into getting a..um.. front.. cassette... thing while I'm at it, or are the effects mostly on the rear?
What do I need to know about buying deraileurs? I'm not sure the front one is entirely healthy...
Also, roughly how much can I expect to pay to have a rim straightened?
#19
What the?
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Once you remove the chain to replace it.... I would clean everything as best as you can. Use a flat screwdriver to scrape off the heavy gunk...and then a toothbrush with some de-greaser should work fine.
I would try replacing just the chain first. You indicated that it's only stretched 1/16". Try the chain before you go replacing the cassette and chain rings(front gears)
Look here for more info:
https://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
I would try replacing just the chain first. You indicated that it's only stretched 1/16". Try the chain before you go replacing the cassette and chain rings(front gears)
Look here for more info:
https://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
#20
wow thats really really dirty
Try these for keeping it clean
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CM%2D5
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...4&item=GSC%2D1
Try these for keeping it clean
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...=5&item=CM%2D5
https://www.parktool.com/products/det...4&item=GSC%2D1
#21
unofficial roadie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,440
Likes: 0
From: Out in the woods you see
Bikes: 2004 Marin bobcat trail, 2006 trek fuel ex7, 2007 iron horse road bike
+1 i was just suggesting that after replacement of the chain there could be additional problems to be prepared for
#22
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: Blo-no, IL
Bikes: 2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport, 1970's Miyata Liberty ala fixed gear
Another note on replacing chain rings: If you generally ride in only one chain ring, such as low, middle, or high, you may be able to replace just the chain ring that is shot. I'm not sure what type of crankset you have, but keep that in mind. If you want to read up on maintenance, it seems you want to do it yourself which is a good way to get to know exactly how your bike works, I suggest investing in some sort of reference manual. I use "Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance", but there is Park's Blue Book, or Park Tool's website from above, the Sheldon Brown website from above, and many others. I like to have a hard copy to have on hand as a quick reference when I'm working on my bike, oh and I find it to be a good read for in the bathroom... Seriously, Zinn is awesome, IMO.
#23
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
Well, the thing about getting parts is that I'm poor.. so hopefully I'll get what I need under the christmas tree. I'll ask for a cassette just in case and, well, it's free 
And yes, I have been brought up with a DIY nature. My family does all of our own work
I'll look into a reference book.

And yes, I have been brought up with a DIY nature. My family does all of our own work
I'll look into a reference book.
#25
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 147
Likes: 5
I'll probably do that but it'll be a while. I don't feel like tearing it all apart until I'm done riding for the year and, at the current rate of snowfall, that could be a while.
On an unrelated note, I've set a goal to completely destroy my rear tire by that time
On an unrelated note, I've set a goal to completely destroy my rear tire by that time






