So here's the new mountain bike. I decided to see how long it would take to go from the box to a fully rideable bike. OK, I don't have pedals(damn brother-in-law has mine), so it's not completely rideable, but you can have a pretty good idea of your 'bottle to throttle' time.

I see red X's.

No Pics?

it took you 60 minutes?

I built my fly 9357 in about an hour. I could have done it faster, but disc brakes were totally new to me and I was cautious. Just got back from riding it tonight . . . love it.

Look at the watch, you tard. 27 minutes and 45 seconds to get it rideable. That included opening the box.

I've still got stuff to do. I'm going to go for some different tires (haven't figured out which ones exactly, yet), change the cassette to an 11-32, take off the dork disc, bottle cages, etc. I wouldn't do a 100 mile race the way it is right now, but it's rideable.

I was impressed it went together that fast. I have no prior BD experience, but they did a nice job.

Dude, it took Pcad 27 minutes to figure out how to open the box.

OK all,

I've got my bike in better shape. Mods are:

1. Panaracer FireXCPro 2.1 tires front and rear
2. Tacx bottle cages
3. 11-32 SRAM Cassette / remove dork disc
4. Cheesy little handlebar bell to warn/say hello to people

Waiting on from Universal:
1. Ergo grips with integrated bar ends
2. Salsa quick-release seat post clamp

Probably should:
1. Bleed the rear brakes. I have the kit to do it, and the lever travel is pretty long.

So, can anyone come up with anything I'm missing?

I don't get why people get rid of those..... Sure, they make the bike look slightly lamer, but you'll want it when you drop your chain into the wheel and snap spokes....

I am very understanding of dork disk ridicule and removal on road bikes. But am fine with a DD on a MTB. Too good of a chance RD gets tweaked and you could toss chain into spokes. Just IMHO.

The ultimate dork disc - - check out Derek Lahr's CF wunderbike. Rear cog is sandwiched by two 'dork discs' - - not dorky at all, really:

dork

dork

Well, it's just something I've never had a problem with. I think there's probably more of a chance of a stick getting caught in the wheel and taking out spokes than the chain. Regardless, it's gone.

Oh ya. I also stuck my old pedals on. When I bought them years ago they were pretty trick because of the Ti axle and mag body, but now they're heavier than a set of good steel pedals. Whatever, they work well and I don't see a need to change them. I have looked at Beebop pedals. They're not too much coin, look nice, look strong, and are light. Maybe if I have problems with what I have I'll have to give them a shot.

Not to interrupt your ratchet head reverie over assembling this bicycle, but be sure to let us know if you ever actually ride the bicycle. I presume some of you do ride the bikes, but I'm starting to wonder.

I'd be curious to hear another impression of the Fly Ti, I only have my own so far.

OF COURSE; IT MIGHT BE BAIS
BUT MY WIFE SAYS HERS RIDES SMOOTHER, CLIMBS QUICKER, CORNERS BETTER, ACCELERATES FASTER THAN HER FLY TEAM AL DID OR THAN THE FLY PRO SHE HAD BEFORE THAT

right now; however she has switched to slicks and is riding it on rollers
but as and off road XC bike she loves it and actually she was not in favor of my Ti project when I stated talking about it over a year ago; Now she is totally sold on Ti being fantastic

Why would anyone actually ride their bike? Wouldn't they just get dirty?

And note that his wife is fairly hardcore. Like adventure racing, Boston marathon, etc hardcore.

I read this feedback, interested in hearing some other observations.

My feel was that the rear triangle of the Fly Ti felt floaty or a bit 'mushy', but that's exactly what I wanted in an MTB. Didn't seem to impair responsiveness, climbing ability, acceleration, BB feels quite rigid, front end quite solid.

Compared to your C'dale Six13 or compared to your old MTB?

Compared to the old MTB. The old steel MTB felt like a road racing frame. That's not good. The woods are bumpier than the roads. Around here.

The Cdale Six13 is the best overall race bike I've ridden, and my understanding is the System Six and Super Six are even better. That's amazing.

But getting back to the Fly Ti, one 18 mile ride (half woods, half road) left me thoroughly pscyhed.

Blow me s**t if you want, but that's not exactly an 'epic' mountain biking test, is it? OK, here's my review. It's great around my neighborhood and cuts through the cul-de-sac down the street like hot butter.

Honestly, if I would have taken the bike out as delivered I might as well started to cut myself with razor blades. The semi-slick tire thing does not work on sandy California trails. I tried it once and crashed more than a dozen times in one afternoon.

I got tires on Tuesday, critted that night, kidded last night. You'll have to give me a _little_ more time.

For Pcad that is the Iditabike. Of course I do actually ride my bicycles. Whether or not those rides meet your bike weenie standards is your concern. I only want to know if you like the Fly Ti when you get it in the dirt.

45 miles today, nothing but hills. Up. Down. Up. Down. Up. Down. Uuuuuuppppppp. Dooowwwwnnnnn. And rain. Some rain too. Pcad 'stuck' the 3 mile climb (stayed seated for the entire climb). The MTB helps with that, you have to keep your ass glued climbing on that MTB.

Deal. I'll let you know all about it. And copy that about seated climbing, but I tend to stay in the saddle a lot anyhow.

Hadn't been on the MTB in a long time until the other day and the first thing I noticed was how much you have to stay in the saddle climbing. That's great training for a roadie, where the tendency is to stand as soon as you find it's hard to stay on top of the gear on a climb. On an MTB you can't do it. I really think that little ride the other day was helpful in helping me stay seated for that 3 mile road climb today. Very cool.

Hope you like your Fly Ti as much as I like mine Fat Boy. We're all too fat for this sport, I can relate, I like your user name.