Cantilever brake cable replacement
#1
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Cantilever brake cable replacement
Would like to change my brake cables and housings. Just finished my old 10-aspeed - no problem. However my MTB has a different setup. My bike is different than the picture below. I can't find any internet pictures showing what I have. Mine has those metal terminator balls on both ends, but I don't understand the circular thing that connects the cable from the lever to this hanger. There doesn't seem to be any extra cable hanging out anywhere.
UGH - I know I should take new pics. Just thought I'd through this out there. THANKS
UGH - I know I should take new pics. Just thought I'd through this out there. THANKS
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those shouldnt have to be replaced. the big circular thing is the point where the main brake cable pulls and actuates the brakes.
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Well, that's what I thought. That's how my 10-speed is setup - with a hanger cable that just stays. But on that bike the hanger cable is held by a sling which has a nut/bolt setup to take the end of the new brake cable. I can use that bolt/nut to adjust the cable length, and some adjustment as time goes by and the cable stretches, etc. There's always a little "tail" of cable sticking out of it that I put a crimp on. But the MTB's circular attachment point has no extra wire coming off of it. Was it just trimmed off?
#4
just pedal
those things where a shimano invention for MTB... as I recall a safety feature... if the main cable snaps on the old style it drops the U cable into the knobby tire and over the bars you went... not fun... so this design helped prevent that as I recall...
the main cable runs from the lever though the big circle part of the yolk at top and over to the bolt on the caliper...
sheldon brown has some info on em
https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
the main cable runs from the lever though the big circle part of the yolk at top and over to the bolt on the caliper...
sheldon brown has some info on em
https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html
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Except there is no bolt on either side. Both sides have a permanent stud. So it appears the cable terminates at the circular thing. Again, my setup is NOT like the picture above.
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then i'd seriously look at buying some new ones, particularly V brakes
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20MTB%20Brakes
shimano, 4.99 each, you're looking at $15.00 damage w/ shipping
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...20MTB%20Brakes
shimano, 4.99 each, you're looking at $15.00 damage w/ shipping
#7
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Why? Because what I have is dangerous?
#8
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i don't know if i'd say they were dangerous, but brakes are something i would replace on an older bike, they are one of the most if not the most important part.
since you seemed to be having some difficulties with the old canti's i thought i'd suggest a cheap alternative.
i also am biased against cantilever brakes. i don't like them, the ones i have used were difficult to adjust and had subpar braking power.
since you seemed to be having some difficulties with the old canti's i thought i'd suggest a cheap alternative.
i also am biased against cantilever brakes. i don't like them, the ones i have used were difficult to adjust and had subpar braking power.
Last edited by Lebowski; 02-09-09 at 04:28 PM. Reason: cant spell
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Understood, and at the price you showed me - it's an easy update.
BTW: I took a closer look and my brakes are exactly like the picture and one side is indeed a bolt with an extra tail sticking out. Not sure what I was thinking or seeing. Not enough sleep maybe. I should be good with a regular set of cables and housings.
BTW: I took a closer look and my brakes are exactly like the picture and one side is indeed a bolt with an extra tail sticking out. Not sure what I was thinking or seeing. Not enough sleep maybe. I should be good with a regular set of cables and housings.
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I'd at least make sure i had new pads. i attempted to restore my dad's bike. he hadnt ridden it in 8-10 years. the rubber pads were so dry and cracked they did absolutley nothing. we spent 10 bucks and replaced all the pads and the difference was like night and day.
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Thanks, good advice. I did the pads on the old 10-speed, that plus the cables and housings made that bike perform way better! The MTB got new pads in '05 - they look a but nasty so I'll take the advice to heart and change them too. Cheap enough!