These two bikes will ride completely different. Gary Fisher has "genesis geometry" some love it, others hate it. I fall into the latter group.

I also agree with Raiyn (again) that the GF is a better spec, just make sure to test ride both bikes (multiple times if you need to.) to see which geometry suits you best.

L8R

OK, I know I probably "closed the barn door after the horse was already gone"(in reference to an earlier quote), but I guess I just need a little reassurance that I didn't totally screw the pooch. You see, I bought a Trek 4900 at the LBS near my house. I didn't know what I was doing, really, and went into the store my friends recommended. The salesman walked me over to the 2004 4900 that was on sale for $469 and showed me all the stuff...then we fitted me for a 21" frame and I was a brand new mountain bike owner. I have since been reading about stuff on here and it sounds like I might have been able to get better components on a different bike. 2 questions...1. Are components in this range extremely important? 2. Is the 4900 frame and Pilot C front fork worth the "downgrade" in other components? I know I got the bike for a 100 bucks off retail, but I am still wondering if I should have shopped around more. Again, the bike felt great...but I don't have that much experience. This is kind of pointless...because what's done is done...I just don't want to regret my decision down the road/trail. Sheesh...:)

Zepp

Ahh. Buyers remorse. Do not feel bad. You got a good bike. Ride like hell. Down the road, If you feel like the bike is holding you back, upgrade. If you can not afford a bike upgrade, buy a new quality wheelset and be amazed at the difference.

It is actually hard to tell if you got an appropriate bike without knowing more about how you are going to ride it and your size, etc. But the advice offered by many on this forum, is if the bike feels right when you ride it then ride it.

Sorry I do not know the answers to your specific questions.

Yes Ritchey does, but just frames, forks, parts. No assembled bikes. Quite expensive.

The frame is about $800 US. The fork $150+ ( A Ritchey Logic unicrown fork is a REALLY nice ridgd fork, I got one!). :)
Then you need everything else. :mad:
This is to be my new frame unless I find a used one or a P-23 frame that was not raced.

>jef.

Thats an AWSOME bike ... go for it. Add a thudbuster and you'll have a half suspension on the tail without pedal bob.

Ok, I've decided on the Hardrock Sport. When on the test rides, there weren't any dirt or extreme uphill climbs, so I wasn't really able to experience a full test ride.

I am 5'10" and about 148lbs. I felt the most comfortable on the Small Hardrock Sport which is 15". Normally people would recommend that I get a 17" frame, but I didnt really feel good on one.

So my question is, will I get any surprises when I take the bike onto the bumpy dirt fire-trials with such a small frame. Thanks.

Hardtail in $500-$600 range
 

Any advice for a hardtail for trail/fire road/mining trail riding...with progression...

I have test rode (and liked):
a) GF Tassajara (no discs)
b) Diamondback Topanga Comp Disc
c) Kona Blast (no discs - but is upgradeable)

I am planning to test:
d) Giant Rainier (discs) - sale @ LBS
e) Raleigh M80 (discs) - 2005 model
f) Iron Horse Warrior Comp (discs)

Is the Raleigh M80 essentially the same as the DB Topanga? What are the differences I should be aware of?

I am not up on all of the componentry and quality issues, but from my research the above appear to me to be similar offerings...except maybe the Rainier has upgraded components compared to the others...?

Hi,

I am looking at getting a new bike and have narrowed my choices down to the following:

2005 Giant Yukon - $500
2005 Jamis Durango Sport SX - $470
2005 Specialized Rockhopper - $500
http://www.specialized.com/SBCBkMode...y36vew4.j27002

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts / suggestions. I haven't really ridden in the past 10 years and am would like to get back into recreational biking. I'd post links to the bikes specs but they aren't up yet for the Giant or the Jamis. These are the two bikes that I am really favoring at this point though. I'd love to hear any comments if ppl are familiar with these bikes.

Thanks,
Joe

Gary fisher Advance? Giant Rincon?
 

I am looking into buying an entry level mountain bike at around $300... any reccommendations? i have found the gary fisher Advance and the Giant rincon to be similar...which is better? which is lighter? any reccommnedations would be appreciated.

Thanks.

just getting back into biking....considering a couple of models and I was wondering what you guys thought....I am really high on the Raleigh M-80 (2005) model as of now but who knows....

Here goes: raleigh m-80, kona cinder kone, etc(comparable models), trek 4900, and Jamis Exile. I like the exile I just need to get a 2004 on a closeout deal for $500 or so to buy it. If anybody knows of any good deals on the following or has some info I would GREATLY apprecieat it! Thanks!

What is the lightest bike for ~$500?
 

visiting from the ss/fixed forum. i'm shopping for a mtn bike for the fiance, who's a beginner/intermediate. after a considerable hiatus from mountain biking (currently have mid-90's Kona cindercone w/o suspension-- the way i like it) and having recently bought a bianchi pista fix, i am shocked by how heavy mountain bikes are today. seems like the manufacturers have adopted the SUV "just in case" mentality and insist on frame materials, thickness, and components that most non-racing types will never need (barring front suspension)-- making these bikes 30+ lb tanks. suspension makes sense on the descents when it takes such extra work to haul the tank up the ascents. anyway, enough of the ranting . . . .

looking at the 18" Specialized Rockhopper, Trek 4500 (maybe wsd), Gary Fisher Marlin, and an 04 Kona Blast-- i'd like to get at least a Deore R/D. any other suggestions for a lighter bike? many tia

i'll add the Marin Bear Valley, Hawk Hill, or Palisades Trail to the above list. thanks.

Thanks for the reply greenfix. I am planning in mostly riding this thing on the trail. I picked it up yesterday, and have been spending a significant amount of time getting used to the clipless pedals(that's a whole 'nother thread, I know). Nonetheless, I am VERY happy with this bike...I am 6'1" and was a little shy about the 21" frame(seemed big in my mind), but I am glad that's what I got...it fits great and so far at my experience level feels very light. The shop I bought if from has been awesome. I don't know, I guess if I was on this board BEFORE I bought a bike, I might have done something different, but the 4900 is a really great bike...at least for me. I would recommend people check it out.

Z

Okay, so I've been scouring around for information on some bikes, and I've more or less got an answer, but I still need advice. First, I'm out of shape, so I'm getting a bike to get back into decent shape. 30 years old, 230 pounds, 6'3". I figure I need something a little more rugged to start with, at the very least. After looking around, I've come down to the following options.

First, my LBS carries Trek 4300 and 4500 bikes, which seem okay, but nothing special. Pretty much the definition of the $500 bike. They also have a Giant Yukon. All are in the $460+tax price bracket. The Yukon has disc brakes, but I'm not sure if they're even worth getting. Thoughts on that would be appreciated.

Now, the next option is eBay. Right now, I'm seriously looking at the Motobecane 700HT offered by sprtymama@aol.com. It almost sounds too good to be true, so I'm trying to figure out what the "catch" is. I don't get support from the seller, which I think I can live with. I have to assemble the bike. That's a little more of a difficulty, but I think I can handle that. The big question is, is the bike really worth it? The Deore components are great for that price range, and the cranks aren't bad, right? It's all the other stuff. Are the disc brakes that come with it really that bad? How about the Judy TT Rock Shox? $447 + $40 shipping is the going price, which I find it hard to match.

The third option is to look into picking up a used bike off eBay - not one from the super sellers that run their business through eBay. Then I would get an assembled bike, and I could possibly get a better bike, although it would be used. Right now, I'm looking at a Cannondale F500 for ~$500 with shipping. 2002 model. I had a Cannondale M500 for about five years before it got stolen, and I generally liked the bike. Should I go with the 'dale again?

I suppose I'll just end by saying that I'm not a hard core biker or intending to become one. Mostly, this will be used for street and trail biking. So why not get a street bike? Two things: one, I *might* start mountain biking once I've dropped some weight, and two, I have a 20 month old daughter that I'm planning to get a trailer for, and figured it would hook up better on a mountain bike (and the lower gears will help me tow the extra weight).

That's about it. Is there some major problem with these Motobecane bikes that I should be aware of? Obviously, they're not the same as the old French Motobecane. The seller has some rather deceptive marketing tactics as well. But people seem to be pleased with the product, regardless. So should I get the Motobecane 700HT or should I go with the Cannondale F500?

And hey - if someone decides the 'dale is a great buy and snags it now, it just wasn't meant to be. Heheh.

If they are the 2004 models, I would go for the Rincon. It's 8-speed instead of 7 and the front derailleur is Acera instead of CO50. Also, the Suntour fork on the Rincon is adjustable. I don't think the RST Capa is, though I could be wrong. I bought one for my brother and it's a pretty nice bike for the price you pay. The frame is fairly light and should be similar (or better) compared to the GF. Hope this helps. :)

Okay, so now the Cannondale is sold. Wonder if someone saw my post here and bought it? No biggie... I'm sure there will be more opportunities for similar bikes. I'm still waiting for any thoughts on the Motobecane deal, though.

Whatever you decide, make sure the frame you get has a lifetime warranty. Your weight will add a lot of stress to the frame and promote failure, especially w/ aluminum. Although I don't know of other companies, Trek lives up to their lifetime frame warranty.

Is the warranty really that important? I mean, if I buy it now and end up cracking the frame in a couple years, it's just time to upgrade to something better. :)

Seriously, I don't think I'll be riding hard enough to crack *any* frame, but if I do start trail riding, I don't think I would be happy with any of the bikes I'm currently looking at. Right now I'm looking for a good starter bike, and if I actually bike as much as I'm planning, then I can pick up a better set of wheels in the future. No sense spending $1000+ on a bike I never use, right?

A better question might be this: Should I look at new bikes (locally), or should I get something used? There are probably a lot of people out there with good mountain bikes that they never use. At least in theory - not sure many live around *me*.

Looking at the Specialized Rock Hopper and comparing that to the Motobecane 700HT, it looks like most of the equipment is a "tie", except the 700HT has better shifters and derailers, and the Rock Hopper has better forks (I think?). The frame details mean nothing to me right now - they're both aluminum is about all I can tell. What I don't know personally is whether the 700HT put on really crappy brakes and other stuff in order to get the price down. Maybe, maybe not.

Well, I'm not strictly a newbie. What I am is a guy that used to bike a lot 5-10 years ago, then I stopped. Basically, I finished college, got a full-time job, and only went biking a couple times a month at most. And then my bike got stolen. Who in the hell steals a 12 year old Cannondale bike? I mean, *seriously*, take the 1 year old Giant that's sitting next to it instead! (They took my 'dale and left my neighbor's *unlocked* Giant. Hahaha....) But I digress. Anyway, I used to do the majority of maintenance on my bike(s) during that time, so it's not a major problem. I'm just a little out of touch with the latest components, names, and quality.

As far as I know, there are no local dealers that carry Motobecane. And the whole "let's buy older, *respected* foreign bike names and sell them with standard asian frames with advertising that implies they are still the same company" makes me very wary of the Motobecane, Mercier, and probably several other names as well.

Let me end by widening the selection range a bit. There's also a Trek 6200 at a LBS for ~$800, which is a bit more than I really want to spend. But the components appear to be a pretty major step up from the $460 models. Hydraulic disc brakes certainly *seem* like a nice idea - are they good in practice? Is it even difficult to change to hydraulics instead of standard cables? Maybe I just need to buy $15 hydraulic cables and replace the standard cables if I want hydraulics? The forks are Rock Shox Pilot, which is supposed to be a step up. Anyway, is it worth it to spend a bit more for a $800 mountain bike vs. a $500 bike, or do you really need to get into the $1000+ range before you get good quality? And if $800 is the price limit, what suggestions would you make as opposed to the Rock Hopper and such?

Last question (I like long posts, if you can't tell... I'm a computer hardware junkie when I'm not thinking about mountain bikes): There's a place not to far away selling a Cannondale Delta V900 bike for $200. I haven't seen the bike in person, but it's supposed to be in reasonable shape. I'm guessing it's about 10 years old, though - maybe more, maybe less. Is it even worth *looking* at, or should I save myself some time and not spend two hours driving to Auburn and back?