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i bought a specialized hardrock for about 500, its a nice hardtail, i like how it rides....
oh ya for the record, this in CAD, and for starting out it has some nice components on it. |
Originally Posted by Pup
Everybody is too concerned with all of the components on the bike. Your main concern should be with the frame itself. Yes, everything else is important to the bike as a whole, but a good frame is a priority. Remember that while you trade out various components, wheels, forks, etc. as the years go by, you will be on the same frame.
On that note, I am personally partial to my Giant Iguana. I do not quite like GT's. It depends on how tight of trails you are riding. They have a shallower head angle, making them stretch out a bit longer than many other bikes. I haven't ridden Specialized much, but I do find some of their cable guides to be a nuisance. Who runs their cables right over the top tube?! The important thing is to ride the bike, see if you like the feel, and then worry about the other stuff. |
I agree about the quality being roughly the same. That's why I'd rather go for the FEEL. Every little angle and inch makes a difference. Ebay does have some great deals, but I wouldn't recommend it for someone shopping for their first bike. First-timers should always test ride a bike to see what measurements they prefer.
As a side-note for anyone shopping on Ebay. Make sure the person selling is as specific as possible in their description. Ask questions if you have to. It is the only way to protect against fraud. Example: A seller claims that they know nothing about bikes, and is selling a bike "as is." If you buy the bike and it turns out to have a cracked frame, you have no recourse to get your money back. If the seller had specified that the frame is in perfect condition, then you could get your money back. |
I'm a road biker looking to get into mountain biking and I need some advice.
I'm considering the Raleigh Ram 3.0 for $599. I know Raleigh isn't the best but this is a great deal. Plus I get a helmet, u-lock and mini-pump thrown in for free. Thoughts? |
I just want to ride trails, some difficult some easy, depends on the mood. No racing though. Just an all around off-road bike. Terrain is not very rugged, just out and maybe some trips to the mountains of NC. Distance whatever gets me an hour or two of riding.
Also as a way to ride when it cools off since riding a road bike is less fun at cold temps. Thanks for the help |
It does look like a pretty good deal, based on the MSRP. Here are some reviews: http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/2004_ful...t_122988.shtml
Compare the component spec's at this site with the one you are actually looking at. They might be different years or the LBS might have swaped a few components around (which is fine, as long as you know what you are buying). At a glance, I'd say the bike would probably work quite well for you based on how you described the way you want to ride. If you really get into mtn biking and want to get hardcore with some heavy-duty off-road, you could move up from there. I saw a Ram 2.0 at the LBS. I think it was priced around $475 as a yr-end deal. Looked pretty good to me for that kind of $$$. |
Looking at the link again, the 7005 alum frame is good tubing. The main thing I would take into consideration is you are getting some trade-off (downward) on the component spec to have the full suspension at that price. I would not pound the pulp out of this bike without expecting to upgrade some components.
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Originally Posted by scarecrow
A good hardtail with good wheels is a starting point. I'm partial to steel frames because aluminum frames feel too dead. A good bike that cost $1000-1500 years ago can be had for under $500. Have someone look it over, like a bike mechanic, and make sure the frame isn't cracked and such. If you don't crack a smile every time you ride it, it's not the right bike for you. A good time to shop is in the spring when people are shopping for upgrades and want to dump what they have to buy the latest ride.
I bought a chromoly Ritchey race frame, circa 1990, not raced- total re-build cost+frame, $600. Light, strong, cheap... Guess Kieth Bontranger can just eat his quote. I got all three. I MAYBE run a Bontranger seatpost. |
My Bro-in-law just piced up a raliegh M80.... Sweet! Manitou Six fork, Lx in the Back Deore everywhere else and Hays Disc brakes! Sweet AL Kenisis frame that most likely came friom the Giant Factory. the bottom tube dosn't have that extra piece of AL welded onto it. It is actually part of the frame! WTB tires and seat Nippled rimes (Presta valves) TruActive crank! Got it for $550 USD.
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Picked up a Ram 4.0 for $100 over the Ram 3.0. 4.0 had hydraulic brakes upgrade on components and better suspension.
So far the rides great. BTW Juniper's response was a good one to me and helped so thanks. |
I'm a newbie and had my eye on the Specialized Hardrock sport disc and comp disc (both 2005 models). what are the advantages of the Comp over the sport? is the hardrock a good starter?
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Originally Posted by smoothyfp
I'm a newbie and had my eye on the Specialized Hardrock sport disc and comp disc (both 2005 models). what are the advantages of the Comp over the sport? is the hardrock a good starter?
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Well, I read through the whole $500 MTB Thread and Raiyn suggested someone make a thread like this, so I did ;)
And if it's already been made before, I'll show myself the door :( Some of my own suggestions (not recommendations, suggestions) in this price range Specialized Hard Rock (XC, Sport etc.) Giant Rincon Gary Fisher Tarpon Using the current cad-us exchange rate, a rockhopper would only be $500 canadian but alas, the cheap prices are not the same up here and the rockhopper costs $600 :( (canadian) Thanks for reading! :) |
I have a specialized hard rock Sport 2004.
I got it a few months ago, and bashed the big chainring up front in the first week :( The left crankshaft fell off when I was 5 miles from home, for no reason, riding on pavement. Had to go to LBS to get that fixed. Yesterday, I rode the Berryman trail in MO... my chain broke on 5th mile (whats up with the 5 mile pattern..) so I pulled out my parktools multi. And broke the damn chain tool, too. So I had to run back home with the bike up hill most of the way (dang shame, I could have coasted :( ) I had some bad bad luck, I guess.. Oh yeah, I'm down with a broken tailbone from yesterday, but thats a whole different story! I had a 1994 specialized Hard rock, steel with no suspension, and it ROCKED, no major problems with it that didnt come from my stupidity (busted two back wheels with badly mangled bunnyhops over curbs) Bad luck I guess :( I already want to upgrade to a stumpjumper.... turn the hard rock into a street bike, with slicks and stuff. Money sucks. heh. |
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=70134 diggin old used bikes.
Mine is 1990, 'gulp' I am @ $600. Raiyn would say i'm stupid prob. Ride on, wrench yourself, save bucks. Peace>jef. |
I have an '05 hardrock sport, it's still goin' fairly strong.
I did need the cranks and brake levers to be tightened, and now I'm having a rear derrailuer problem, but those are fairly simple. I am somewhat worried about the chain movement on landing from drops/jumps; it will sometimes jump from the second chainring to the first, and then if I try to stand up to start pedaling to get more torque and use that gear, I get a surprise :p I'm considering maybe upgrading this a bit to do some jumping and etc, and buying a road bike for that portion of my bike use. |
Madman2k,
looks like I am not alone.. I notice the same things.. the chain keeps moving around when I am jumping and stuff... I guess HardRock isn't really for rockin' or something... |
I wish I saw this review here before I got my specialized:
http://mtbr.com/reviews/2004_hardtai...t_123452.shtml Looks like my HardRock sport is a decent bike, I just may be riding it out of its specs... I guess I should have gotten a Pro version instead :) Now I see why I am having trouble with my bike with all the harsh terrian I have been riding.... |
This is definitely a great thread to have around. I just wish I saw it earlier. I just bought my first real bike and my Mom was going balistic when I told her how much it was. And to think it was only a 19.5" Trek 4100 :p Really an excellent bike IMO but like all sub $500 bikes all the components are cheapened out. The tires are blah so I´m switching to either Panaracer FireXCs or Velociraptors and of course the derailleors aren´t the greatests but I still love my bike :p
Now I was wondering one thing. Are bikes like computers? I´m an active member at OCForums and of course everyone there builds their own PCs from the best components while at the same time saving money compared with buying those terrible prebuilt PCs. So how about bikes, is it not cheaper to simply buy the frame and all components seperately and then put it all together? I can´t be that difficult right? Do most people here do that or does everyone just go out and buy a Specialized Enduro and complain about the components and then upgrade a $2000 bike into a $5000 bike? Thanks :) |
Originally Posted by Violineb
Now I was wondering one thing. Are bikes like computers? I´m an active member at OCForums and of course everyone there builds their own PCs from the best components while at the same time saving money compared with buying those terrible prebuilt PCs. So how about bikes, is it not cheaper to simply buy the frame and all components seperately and then put it all together? I can´t be that difficult right? Do most people here do that or does everyone just go out and buy a Specialized Enduro and complain about the components and then upgrade a $2000 bike into a $5000 bike?
Thanks :) Just for fun (and as a bad example) I sat down and figured up the cost of a '05 S Works Stumpjumper (I needed something where the bikes was sold complete or as a frameset) 05 S-Works Stumpjumper FSR 120 $5000 Comes with: Technical Specifications FRAME FSR technology, M5 Manipulated alloy DT with Transform monocoque TT, sealed cart. bearings, disc compatible, 120mm travel, repl. der. hanger, two sets of water bottle bosses REAR SHOCK Fox Float Septune. Custom on the fly seven position adjustable ProPedal pedal assisting damping. External rebound adjust. 7.5x1.75” FORK Fox Talas RLC, 95-130mm travel, rebound adj., compression adj. w/ lock-out and threshold adjust, alloy steerer Frame and fork cost seperate $1700 HEADSET 1 1/8” Threadless, 3x sealed, black alloy cups, cartridge bearings, ultralight carbon top cap w/ alloy bolt Estimated nominal cost for a decent headset keeping in mind bike spec $75 STEM Thomson, CNC 7000 Series Aluminum OS 31.8, 5 degree rise HANDLEBARS Specialized Carbon XC Rise OS 31.8 bar, 8 deg back sweep, 6 degree up sweep, 640mm width Best deal I could find for the handle bar / stem set $80 TAPE / GRIPS Specialized MTB grip, black, double density Kraton $13 FRONT BRAKE Shimano M-965 XTR hydraulic disc, metallic brake pads, 6” XT Rotor $119 REAR BRAKE Shimano M-965 XTR hydraulic disc, metallic brake pads, 6” XT Rotor $119 BRAKE LEVERS Shimano M-965 XTR hydraulic disc $274 x 2 =$548 FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano M-960 XTR, 34.9mm clamp, bottom pull $90 REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano M-952 XTR, long cage, standard spring $100 SHIFT LEVERS Shimano M-965 XTR, STI integrated shifter/lever combo See above under brake levers CASSETTE Shimano M-960 XTR, 9-speed, 11x34t, Titanium top 4 cogs $142 CHAIN Shimano CN-7701 $22 CRANKSET Shimano M-960 XTR Hollowtech II arms CHAINRINGS 44Ax32Ax22A, 7075 Aluminum, 44 Anodized, 32/22 Nickel-Plated, 4-bolt, 146/102/64mm pattern BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano M-960 XTR, Octalink spline, combined w/ crank, 68mm shell, 133.5mm spindle $450 PEDALS N/A RIMS Mavic CrossMax SL Disc Tubeless compatible, 26” FRONT HUB Mavic CrossMax SL Disc with Mavic QR REAR HUB Mavic CrossMax SL Disc with Mavic QR SPOKES Mavic CrossMax SL forged aluminum Crossmax SL Disc wheelset $830 FRONT TIRE Specialized Adrenaline Pro 2.0, aramid bead, 120 tpi REAR TIRE Specialized Adrenaline Pro 2.0, aramid bead, 120 tpi $37 x 2 = $74 TUBES Specialized Ultralight, presta valve $16 SADDLE Specialized BG technology, microfiber cover, Titanium rails $94 SEAT POST Thomson, 7000 Series Aluminum, 2-bolt adjust, set back head, 30.9mm x 367/410mm SEAT BINDER Alloy collar with Q/R, 34.9mm clamp I.D., black See "Frame" above I was able to build this bike for $4456 not including shipping, handling or bike shop labor which would have put it over the $5k limit. Granted many people who would buy such a bike have all the tools needed for assembly many also do not. There is also the the time / instant gratification factor. All prices quoted are from Specialized.com and Pricepoint.com. This example is flawed in one major aspect: As you get towards the meat of the market ($500 or so) the difference in price between what they can get and what we can get grows proportionally. Specialized may sell say 150 S-works Stumpys per year compared to 1500 Rockhoppers. Bike companies buy the cheaper components in BULK - equate it to going to Costco for toilet paper what buys 24 rolls at the grocery store yeilds 48 rolls or more at Costco - the same principle applies here. </offtopic> |
Alright, I'm looking into buying a new bike in the $300-400 range. I went to an LBS today and he only carries two brands. He has Jamis and Marin bikes.
I talked to the guy (who is also the mechanic) for a while about what I was looking for and he suggested the Jamis Ranger SX or the Jamis Cross Country 1.0. He had a new one still in the box that he's going to build for me so I can ride it next week. Do you guys have any comments on these bikes? |
The Cross Country has better drivetrain specs than the Ranger. Are there any other LBS's near you? I'd hate for you to be pigeonholed to just two brands
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Actually, this LBS is in a town 25 miles from where I live. There's more LBSs in the next town over from that one. I chose this one 'cause I was already in the area (I go to college just down the road from there.)
He told me that Jamis makes some good bikes, but he was also trying to make a sale... So what do you guys think? I've been looking around the 'net for a while for bikes and hadn't heard any mention of them until I walked into the shop today. He told me that the equivalents of the Cross Country in other brands would sacrifice quality in one component in order to put a more expensive component elsewhere on the bike. But, I assume that's true for most entry-level bikes. |
Originally Posted by swifferman
But alas, no suggestions directed at me :(
That's why I wanted to create my own thread :(
Originally Posted by -Stretch-
:lol: didnt realize that cool mtb'ers were acctually nerds...
do you dream of hover bikes Raiyn? lol just playin. |
Originally Posted by swifferman
Yes exactly, the ones I listed :(
I wanted new suggestions to add to mine, but in this thread, noone is adding in that price range Have you actually been to a bike shop to look at bikes? Did you know that they sell last year's models at a discount to get them out of the store? You have to do SOME of the work here. What kind of riding do you intend to do? Is the $400 limit set in stone? If so why? Give us something to work with here, something other than frowny faces and this whiney bull-headed attitude you've displayed on this and your previous thread; it doesn't get far with me or many other people here. We'll (at least I'll) try to help you but you have to work with us. Give us the information we need. |
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