Anyone who uses HFX-9's will at one point or another have to fiddle with the leverage screw on these brakes. Granted when the lever pull is set to my liking the brakes perform unbelievably well. The moderation is great. After all most Hydrodraulic brakes are known for that. But after my DH runs I'm tired of pulling out the 2mm allen key and fixing the leverage. Last weekend after one run the levers hit the bars and there was no stopping power what-so-ever. Thank god the front brakes still worked.

I was wondering if anyone else had this problem with the HFX-9's. And what they have done to solve this problem. I'm thinking of calling up Hayes and getting it replaced. If its still under warranty. If that doesn't solve the problem. It's time for some new brakes. What would you suggest? Avid Juicy, Hayes Mag's, Hope m4? I'd like to keep it under 200 per brake. I might even wait till the El Camino's come out. Hayes seemed to do a good job on those. Opinions?

Did you try loctite on the throw screw?

And no I wouldn't suggest any of those high priced brakes. Xt's would be good or the step up on hayes (are they still called mags?).

Of course i've tried loctiting the screw. Twice myself and its been professionally done twice as well.

hmmmm....that sucks. I know of others that had this problem but loctite fixed it. Stupid hfx9's...

But I still wouldn't look at hopes, juicy's etc...

By the way its moDULation not modERation. And also, even though the juicys are the best brakes I have ever felt, I'd go with the Mags.

Have you tried Hope 6 pots (or what ever they are, the ones with 6 pistons) they are so powerful, yet have excellent modulation an a huge price tag They are the best brakes I've tried.

Are you sure that the set screws are coning loose? The reason I ask is that you could be wearing through that much brake pad and rotor. Hayes is having a problem with their current generation of rotors being eaten up bythe pads, so it might be that you are continually adjusting the lever inward. I'd take a look at the rotors and pads for wear.

Otherwise Marta.

are you leaving the loctite in long enough to set? try applying it just before you go to sleep and let it sit overnight. that should give it enough time to set and harden. after that you shouldn’t have to worry about that screw coming loose for quite a while.

i have a set of hfx nines on my fluid and have experienced that same problem with the adjustment screw coming loose every so often.

i picked up a tube of permatex 242 (same thing as loctite 242, but different brand) and that pretty much solved the problem. the only other problem i’ve had with my nines is that i got some of the permatex on the pivot for brake lever and the little piston that goes into the master cylinder, which made it stick after squeezing the lever. i fixed that though by taking the brake lever’s pivot screw out and just wiggling the brake lever around to get the dried permatex out. haven’t had any problems since then.

and if you haven’t done it already, consider sticking a small piece of duct tape over that little plastic master cylinder plug to prevent it from popping out during a run. having that pop out and having your brake fluid spill out everwhere isn’t fun at all.

oh, just f.y.i. some reviews for the hayes hfx mags also mention the adjustment screw coming loose every so often... so it’s not just a problem with the nines.

Yeah, the reach screw is my biggest gripe with the Hayes too. I apply loctite periodically and it fixes the problem. The mechanics at my LBS also suggested scuffing the threads on the screw to make it more sticky, but I haven't had to do this because loctite works fine. On my new bike I tried the Hope Mono Mini's. To give you a quick review, they look and feel sweet, but don't work any better than the Hayes', and are much more finicky to set up and use. Hopes are the "Range Rover" of brakes, while Hayes are the "Lexus" of brakes , if that analogy means anything to you. I've been wanting to try the El CAmino's; those might be my newest breaks. I bet they're pricy though.

I don't know if anyone has tried this, but I have a tip that may just work.

I work in a snowboard shop and we sometimes have troubles with the screws for the bindings coming loose. We solve this by applying a teflon tape that is used by plubmers to seal the threads on pipes.
I'dont know what it's called in english. We just wrap as many turns of this as we can around the screws without making it impossible for them to get properly seated and tighten them up nicely. They never come undone again. This should be heat proof as well since the tape is used on hot water pipes.

If someone decides to try this out it would be great to know the results here.

Cheers

Just some loctite works fine...fixed my issued

I concur, the 242 thread locking compound works fine for me.

Also, I ensure I have the compound on the full length of the engaged threads. First, I back the screw out, apply the compound with a toothpick or wire, then start turning the screw so the compound gets dragged into the mating threads. I may apply another drop or two as the screw advances.

And for good measure, I carry a loose 2mm Allen wrench just in case. I can't fit on my Alien multi-tool between the levers and bars.

We call it Plumber's Teflon Tape! Imagine that!

I've not tried it on such a small screw, but have used it numerous times on bottom brackets in aluminum frames that creak. Just a couple layers works.

Come down a bit and Try the Mono M4's. They are still awesome.

On the screw bit-- two mods that work for me with vibration. Wire the damn thing in, but if you want to be able to adjust the screw frequently, then it is awkward to rewire. The other is to put Araldite over the head of the screw and onto the body that it screws into.

Loctite relies on spotlessly clean surfaces to work. The slightest bit of oil and it will not work efficiently. Clean off with a solvent before applying. Put some on the screw a couple of hours before fitting and let it firm up. then apply more as you fit it.

Sorry but Loctite works, so look at how you are fitting it.

Where is the screw for the brakes I can't find it.

It's the screw that is connected to the brake lever and pushes on the brake cylinders. You can see the screw if you look between the bars and brake lever.

PWRDbyTRD - do yo still have a photo of it? I recall you posted it about a month ago.

There you have it.

I used to have the same problem big time, I'd have to stop in the middle of a run to screw the lever back out. I called hayes, the tech suggested lock tight, the least strong color, blue I think, and in the lipstick type applicator not the liquid. You should be able to find the lock tight at a hareware store. Unscrew the adjuster all the way out so you can get to the threads and put a little on. And if you do have to use the liquid be careful not to get it on anything other than the threads. The tech said they know about the problem, and I imagine that they have fixed the thread spacing on the new HFX's.

I have the 9 and i had the same problem on my front brake lever only. back is fine.
the guy at the shop put teflon tape on the thread and this seemed to fix the problem.
as i understand it, the adjusting screw will move when vibrated. the tape inhibits this free movement. can still adjust as necessary


cheers


marty

My rear used to do that, until I busted the threaded housing the screw went into.... Now mine's locked wide-open. Brakes still work fine. They self-adjust as long as you have enuf fluid in the reservoir....

Another reason I'm going Machanical next time....

Or you could just get a set of expensive Hopes or Juicy 7's. Not that I disagree with your decision to get BB7's, just playing devil's advocate a little bit.

Whatever happened to FoX Rider? He hasnt posted for a while...

Not sure. He just stopped posting one day.

Banned maybe? I'd hate for that to happen to anyone....

Well, my hfx 9's were acting up and the screw was coming out and for those of people that have or had braces for their teeth, their a thing called orthodonic wax. It is a sticky wax and it stops the screw from backing out of the lever. so first thing I put the wax on and then I covered it with a little electrical tape and then I sprayed it with a little teflon spray and now the screw doesn't come out. It is really cool because now I do not have to tihten the screw. When you apply the wax, be sure to pack it with multiple layers, it works well if you use a toothpick or some similar object like a paper clip so that helped and I encourage you to try this, you may want to wait 24 hours for the teflon spray to dry but you don't need to use the teflon, it is important that you put some electrical tape on tom of the wax though, the wax is really sticky so it will not fall out.