Dumonde Tech

You're welcome.

or rock and roll. depending on where you live. i use both.

Real question: whats wrong with WD40?

wait for it . . .

Um....

Wd40 isn't a lube, it's a cleaner


......................

Go buy a $6 bottle of wet chain lube and learn to not replace your chain every other ride

And yes, wd40 causes the metal in the chain to break down, when you use lube, it protects the metal. If you can protect the metal well enough, you might never replace your chain.

And no, Triflow is not chain lube, but only light oil

And now I know. Thanks, bikeforums

You didn't bring enough;

Your not done yet

Dry chain lube is for hot/dry climates or an environment with lots of dirt.

Wet chain lube is for wet/cold climates or an environment that cleaner

Wax is dry, yet lasts longer but also collects dirt

Ceramic is a waste of money, oil and lube is already ceramic based, don't waste your time and money

Don't worry. Between all the debate, I'm still not quite sure what I'm supposed to do with my chain. All I know for sure is not to use WD40. But then do I totally clean it and re-lube? Some say that isn't good because you can't really get good chain lube deep down into the chain like it came new once you clean it out. So do I just do a light outside cleaning and re-lube? Some say that isn't good because there could be grit that has worked it's way deep into the chain. What to do, what to do...?

But hey, I'm running a 1X9, which I've read causes premature chain wear anyway due to cross chaining, so I guess I'll be replacing often anyway.

Just to be fair, crazy, I'll throw out the long answer.

WD-40 is actually a lubricant - - as well as a water-disperser and mild rust-inhibitor - - but a very light-duty one not really suitable as a chain lube. Its makeup is mostly solvent carrier with a little bit of plain old low viscosity petroleum oil. Over half of it, according to its MSDS (that's Material Safety Data Sheet for the unitiated - - and a great way to find out what's really in stuff sometimes) is an "aliphatic hydrocarbon," which is really a fancy way of saying an oil or solvent derived from animal fat - - in this case fish oil from what I understand. Here's the rundown:

Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 45-50%
Petroleum Base Oil <25%
LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 12-18% (LVP means Low Vapor Pressure)
Carbon Dioxide 2-3% (the propellant)
Surfactant <2% (what makes it cling to surfaces and displace moisture)
Non-Hazardous Ingredients <10%

Basically, as a chain lube, yes it penetrates the plates, rollers and pins easily due to the high solvent content. When that evaporates, it leaves behind just plain ol' light oil with no extra additives with good lubricating qualities (like molybdenum disulfide or any of those cool things). Instead, the oil left seems to act as a dirt magnet that attracts gunk into your chain worse than if you hadn't lubed it at all.

They all work. But none of them are the best.

For the record, Dumonde Tech Original ingredients:

Fatty Ester 20-85% (the main ingredient of biodiesel)
Polymer 20-60% (what makes it slippery and stay on the chain)
Isoparaffinic 7-40% (a low-odor solvent)
Ketone 1-15% (probably acetone or something similar - - fast-penetrating, volatile solvent)

I presume it's the polymers that make it razzoo?

There is no best lube... just the right lube for the conditions you ride in.

/thread

Come on don't ruin BF

we need best lube , best chain, best bike threads because there is definitively one that is the absolute most amazing that all others should bow down.

And don't forget, Campagnolo is better than Shimano.

Don't forget to use your power washer to clean the chain before using used motor oil to lube your chain.

Wrong.
Like any good chain lube, it is a mixture of solvent and lubricant.
Once the solvent has evaporated, the lubricant is not thin.

I don't like Tri Flow (here) as it can get quite dry and dusty where most of the dust is clay based... the TF acts like a dust magnet although it does allow for some pretty easy cleaning due to the teflon additives.

I pee on mine. It works great.

I picked up some Dumonde at Tech at Interbike, free samples galore. Its one of my three favorites. I personally like the drippings from bacon fat. I soak my chain in it while it is still hot in the frying pan. But it draws coyotes, that's the only down side.

Well, now you're just beginning to sound like Oleanshoebox.

End of story!

I like the dumonde for the road bike. I refuse to clean and
lube the chain on the mountain bike in a two day process
just to slop through the mud with it. If you follow the
dumonde instructions to the t, carmex lip balm will be
sufficient lube. here it comes.........
THE ONLY LUBE THAT EVER HURT A CHAIN WAS THE LUBE
IT NEVER GOT!

i think i dated her...

I use Break Free CLP on all my bikes chain / drivetrain components and have for years. Road, MTB, Hybrid, Tandem and SS. I know its not specific to bikes, but I always have plenty on hand it has kept my handguns and AR's running like tops and has worked as good as anything I have ever tried on my bikes. Granted I subscribe to the thought that keeping a clean drive train is the best way get the maximum life out of it so, I clean the chain and cassette on a regular basis.