Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Mountain Biking
Reload this Page >

Crank or Chainring Replacement?

Mountain Biking Mountain biking is one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Check out this forum to discuss the latest tips, tricks, gear and equipment in the world of mountain biking.

Crank or Chainring Replacement?

Old 05-04-12, 02:04 PM
  #1  
ReverendMaynard
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ReverendMaynard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Crank or Chainring Replacement?

I have a 2009 Gary Fisher Tassajara. It comes with the Shimano M-428, 22/32/44 teeth crankset, which is an Octalink type. I'm not sure what the BB specs are, but I've been happy with the stock one so far (never needs adjustment, cleaning, etc.) Lately I've been getting chain suck when shifting from the small ring up to the middle ring. I suspect I may have worn my small chainring relative to my middle ring, as I'm a new rider and ride a lot of tight, twisty single track, so I'd go whole rides (weeks or even months) in the small chainring. So, I want to either replace the small and middle chainrings, or perhaps the whole crankset.

When searching for chainrings, they all have "Chainrings from Shimano HollowtechII & Octalink MTB cranksets have different length tabs & are not interchangable" in the description. The problem is that none of the ones I've seen have said which one they are compatible with! I want to get better chainrings than the ones I have (machined/forged/heat treated/etc. as opposed to stamped), so direct part number replacement is not an option. Do they make higher quality chainrings for the octalink? Which ones?

My friend has an FSA V-drive MegaExo crankset, brand new, still in the box that he'll sell me for $100. He says that he thinks the BB will fit my shell, but I'm not 100% sure he knows what he's talking about. My reservations would be that he got it as a warranty replacement because his previous one was always getting contamination in the BB and it scored up the shaft enough to need a replacement in less than a year. I don't want to replace my maintenance free setup with a maintenance nightmare. Also, the small and middle rings are stamped so they are not an upgrade over my current rings.

As another option, I'm looking at the Shimano SLX crankset in 2x9 22/36/bashguard that I can get for 163 shipped. I forgot to mention earlier that my preference was for a 2x with bashguard all along, which is another reason I'm reticent about the FSA.

What would you do?

Thanks in advance,
RM
ReverendMaynard is offline  
Old 05-04-12, 04:58 PM
  #2  
3speed
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3,310
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 289 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
If I were you, I'd just find the chain-rings for the crank you already have. As long as it's working out for you and you like it, no reason to spend the money and replace a perfectly good crank. Have you cleaned the current chain-rings well? A grease/grit build-up will promote chain suck. Unfortunately I can't tell you how to determine what rings are for your crank. You should be able to just buy them based on the BCD and if they're made for 4/5 bolt cranks.
3speed is offline  
Old 05-04-12, 05:22 PM
  #3  
Mexican Street Dog
Senior Member
 
Mexican Street Dog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Coastal Maine
Posts: 130

Bikes: 1936 Raleigh Golden Arrow; Kona Honzo

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'll tell ya, I'm running a 1x9, 36t 'ring, 11-36t cassette, and I love it. I ride tight rocky, rooty trails with short, sharp hills. I struggle up a .32 mile ATV trail that's not too steep or rough and I don't have any descents long or smooth enough that I can spin out much bigger. Easy to try it out any way, I really like it.
Mexican Street Dog is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 05:58 AM
  #4  
ncfisherman
Senior Member
 
ncfisherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 457

Bikes: Canfield Yelli Screamy, Pivot Mach5, Specialized Roubaix, '65 Hercules, '79 Schwinn Stingray Lil Chic, '68 Schwinn Stingray Fastback, '89 Specialized Allez Epic, '86 Battaglin World Champion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm not familiar with the M428...are the chainrings definitely replaceable? On some lower end cranks, the chainrings are riveted. If they are replaceable, that would likely be your cheapest option, so I guess it comes down to what you want to spend.

By the way, Blueskycycling.com has the SLX w/bash for $109.98. At that price, the crank may be OEM even though they don't mention it. I picked one up about a year ago and it was not in the original packaging - the condition was perfect. No big deal for me, but just an FYI.

Bluesky also has a Race Face Ride XC external BB crank for $49.98 - likely also OEM. I prefer Shimanos setup, but RF x-type works too. That option would likely be less expensive than buying chainrings.

Last edited by ncfisherman; 05-05-12 at 12:25 PM.
ncfisherman is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 06:32 AM
  #5  
ReverendMaynard
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ReverendMaynard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the input guys.

My chain suck is definitely not caused by dirty gear as I clean the entire drivetrain with a brush and degreaser on a regular basis.

I've pretty much ruled out the FSA. I don't have a lot of faith in the brand, and it seems like too much of a parallel move from what I've got.

I did find a small chain ring for my crank (which is actually a m442-8) that's a direct replacement. Couldn't find a middle ring though. It's only $13, but I could only find it at chainreactioncycles.com, which is overseas and $8 shipping unless I order over $80.

The more I look at it, the more I'm thinking upgrading to the SLX sounds good. It has a steel small ring and I've been planning on going 2x with bashguard anyway. Also, I'll know that if the relatively cheap BB that it comes with has problems, I can fit any number of high quality replacements that would be compatible with the hollowtechII. The great price ncfisherman posted pretty much seals the deal, I think. Thanks!

I'll need to buy the tools, which I see as an investment, so no big deal. I think I need the Park BBT22 to remove my existing BB, and a Hollowtech II Bottom Bracket Tool to install the new one. Anything else?

Questions: Will I need a crank puller to get my existing octalink crankarms off? What kind of grease should I use?
ReverendMaynard is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 12:38 PM
  #6  
ncfisherman
Senior Member
 
ncfisherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 457

Bikes: Canfield Yelli Screamy, Pivot Mach5, Specialized Roubaix, '65 Hercules, '79 Schwinn Stingray Lil Chic, '68 Schwinn Stingray Fastback, '89 Specialized Allez Epic, '86 Battaglin World Champion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah, you'll need the Parktool black handle CCP-44. It sounds like you're going to handle your own maintenance, so you could pick up the Parktool polylube 1000 multipurpose grease - comes in a 4oz tube or 16oz tub.

For the external BB, I would recommend the BBT-19 with a torque wrench. Though the BBT-9 also has the tool to tighten the preload cap for the hollowtech II cranks - you can use something in place of the actual tool, but you damage the preload cap since it is made out of plastic. I have both tools, but prefer to use the BBT-19 w/ TW for a spot like the BB where proper torque is critical. Since you're just wrenching on your own bike, you could probably get by with the BBT-9.

You'll be really happy with the SLX crank. The Shimano attachment system is better than the competition IMO. That BB will last a while, so no worries there...of course I'm always a fan of King when it comes to BBs(and rear hubs).

Last edited by ncfisherman; 05-05-12 at 12:44 PM.
ncfisherman is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 12:51 PM
  #7  
ReverendMaynard
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ReverendMaynard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, ncfisherman.

I think I'm also going to get the slx front derailer (FD-M665) just to have the best shifting possible, it's only about $45. If I do that, can I keep the triple shifter and only use 2 of the detents, or are the pull ratios different? It's got a Deore triple shifter now.
ReverendMaynard is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 01:07 PM
  #8  
ncfisherman
Senior Member
 
ncfisherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 457

Bikes: Canfield Yelli Screamy, Pivot Mach5, Specialized Roubaix, '65 Hercules, '79 Schwinn Stingray Lil Chic, '68 Schwinn Stingray Fastback, '89 Specialized Allez Epic, '86 Battaglin World Champion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
No problem, Rev. Happy to help.

You would not have any problem running the SLX FD with your current shifter, but the money could be better spent elsewhere. The SLX FD will not do much to improve the shift quality over what you are currently running. You may notice a slight improvement in a shifter upgrade, but even that is not necessary. The way everything is adjusted is more important than the quality of the components, when you get to a certain level.
ncfisherman is offline  
Old 05-05-12, 03:05 PM
  #9  
ReverendMaynard
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ReverendMaynard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So, I should just set the limit screws on my current FD so that they can't go past the middle position and that should be fine?
ReverendMaynard is offline  
Old 05-08-12, 06:39 AM
  #10  
ncfisherman
Senior Member
 
ncfisherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chapel Hill
Posts: 457

Bikes: Canfield Yelli Screamy, Pivot Mach5, Specialized Roubaix, '65 Hercules, '79 Schwinn Stingray Lil Chic, '68 Schwinn Stingray Fastback, '89 Specialized Allez Epic, '86 Battaglin World Champion

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah, you can set the high limit screw in or you can just leave it set up as is and don't shift to the outermost position.
ncfisherman is offline  
Old 05-09-12, 01:31 AM
  #11  
3speed
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 3,310
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 289 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Have you bought those tools yet? I'd just like to suggest that if you haven't and you don't plan on using that park tool to remove your BB much in the future, just take it to the LBS and pay them a few dollars to do it. They should charge you practically nothing to just quick loosen that BB and you won't be paying $20 or whatever the tool costs for something you won't use again.
3speed is offline  
Old 05-09-12, 04:44 AM
  #12  
ReverendMaynard
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ReverendMaynard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Actually, I found the tools I need when cleaning out the storage unit with my father's stuff in it.

That's probably good advice though.
ReverendMaynard is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.