upgrading bike and saving weight (merged threads)
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
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upgrading bike and saving weight (merged threads)
hello i have Capriolo Oxygen bicycle, i know that you are not unfamiliar with this mark, but i am just need if you could say if this bike is good to upgrade or dont.
my goal is to start upgrading parts (like moving to casette,7 to 8 speed, instead of shimano tourney i want sram sx 5, bigger chainring from 42t to 48t shimano ....)
and for final i will change frame, instead of hiten i will go to aluminium one.
So my question is : 1. if this bicycle is interchangeable with others.
2. is it good to get on lower prize sram
3. is good idea to change frame last or first
note. i dont want to buy new bicycle because i already bought this one 2 months ago. and also here in serbia, good bicycles are 500+ $ and if i upgrade mine i would spend only 200$ (i need 120 $ for parts, 60$ for frame, and little things)
here is the specs:
ram / frame:
Hi-ten
veličina rama / frame size:
26” x 18”; 26” x 20”; 26” x 22”
vila / fork:
MODE - MD-735F
šoljica vile / head parts:
FP-H812PL - 7pcs, 1-1/8”, 28.6/44/30mm, 22+2.5=24.5mm height, Bearings: Caged (5/32”x22), Steel ED with FP-HW-03
uložci srednjeg pogona / b.b. parts:
THUN - ROCKY - 122.5 mm, shell: BSA 68mm
srednji pogon/crankset:
KRIPTON X - SPM4-S337F, 42/34/24,170 mm, PVC coated, W/ chainguard
prednji menjač / front derailleur:
SHIMANO - TOURNEY FD-TY10 band type, top-route, 28.6mm, for 44T, cs-angle:66-69
zadnji menjač / rear derailleur:
SHIMANO - TOURNEY TX RD-TX35 6/7-speed, not rapidrise, W/riveted adapter
ručica menjača / shifters:
SHIMANO - ST-EF40 index front / 7 speed rear
brzina / speed:
21
zupčanici / freewheel:
SHIMANO - multiple freewheel sprocket MF-TZ31 7-speed 14-16-18-20-22-24-34T brown
lanac / chain:
KMC - Z-50 - 1/2”x3/32” (114 links) (7 speed)
kočnica / brakes:
LOGAN - DX2003F - Front mechanical disc brake; JY- 927AE - Rear alloy die casting brakes, 70 mm shoe, black
ručica kočnice / brake levers:
SHIMANO - ST-EF40 V-brake levers
glave / hubs:
QUANDO - KT-MP7F front black / KT-A11R rear black
obruči / rims:
KRIPTON - KRYPTON-X 559-19, 36H , EYELETING: NO, RDA: NO, GBS: YES
dimenzije točka / rim size:
26
pneumatici / tires:
RUBENA - 52-559 V36 RAPID (26 X 1.95)
lula / handle stem:
KRIPTON X - MDHS-12 - A-HEAD stem; EXT: 90mm, Rise: +15, Length: 50mm
upravljač / handle bar:
KRIPTON X - GWHB-02, MTB - steel, W=580mm, angle: 5 deg., 22.2X25.4mm
rog / bar ends:
-
stub sedla / seat post:
KRIPTON X - GWSPSTEEL 25.4 - steel seat post 25.4x300mm long, W/O clamp
sedlo / sadle:
SELLE ROYAL - MACH PU
pedale / pedals:
FP-906, PP body, steel cage, 9/16”, with balls, with reflector
zadnji amortizer / rear shock:
-
težina kg / weight kg:
15.8
parts that i would change with
chainring https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/voznj...altus-48-38-28
front d https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...-altus-fdm-310
rear d https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...89-brzina-crni
hub https://planetbike.rs/pbshop/Bicikliz...C4%8Dine/5631/
casette https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/voznj...1-32t-8-brzina
shifters https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...gger-38-brzina
is this posibble or not?
my goal is to start upgrading parts (like moving to casette,7 to 8 speed, instead of shimano tourney i want sram sx 5, bigger chainring from 42t to 48t shimano ....)
and for final i will change frame, instead of hiten i will go to aluminium one.
So my question is : 1. if this bicycle is interchangeable with others.
2. is it good to get on lower prize sram
3. is good idea to change frame last or first
note. i dont want to buy new bicycle because i already bought this one 2 months ago. and also here in serbia, good bicycles are 500+ $ and if i upgrade mine i would spend only 200$ (i need 120 $ for parts, 60$ for frame, and little things)
here is the specs:
ram / frame:
Hi-ten
veličina rama / frame size:
26” x 18”; 26” x 20”; 26” x 22”
vila / fork:
MODE - MD-735F
šoljica vile / head parts:
FP-H812PL - 7pcs, 1-1/8”, 28.6/44/30mm, 22+2.5=24.5mm height, Bearings: Caged (5/32”x22), Steel ED with FP-HW-03
uložci srednjeg pogona / b.b. parts:
THUN - ROCKY - 122.5 mm, shell: BSA 68mm
srednji pogon/crankset:
KRIPTON X - SPM4-S337F, 42/34/24,170 mm, PVC coated, W/ chainguard
prednji menjač / front derailleur:
SHIMANO - TOURNEY FD-TY10 band type, top-route, 28.6mm, for 44T, cs-angle:66-69
zadnji menjač / rear derailleur:
SHIMANO - TOURNEY TX RD-TX35 6/7-speed, not rapidrise, W/riveted adapter
ručica menjača / shifters:
SHIMANO - ST-EF40 index front / 7 speed rear
brzina / speed:
21
zupčanici / freewheel:
SHIMANO - multiple freewheel sprocket MF-TZ31 7-speed 14-16-18-20-22-24-34T brown
lanac / chain:
KMC - Z-50 - 1/2”x3/32” (114 links) (7 speed)
kočnica / brakes:
LOGAN - DX2003F - Front mechanical disc brake; JY- 927AE - Rear alloy die casting brakes, 70 mm shoe, black
ručica kočnice / brake levers:
SHIMANO - ST-EF40 V-brake levers
glave / hubs:
QUANDO - KT-MP7F front black / KT-A11R rear black
obruči / rims:
KRIPTON - KRYPTON-X 559-19, 36H , EYELETING: NO, RDA: NO, GBS: YES
dimenzije točka / rim size:
26
pneumatici / tires:
RUBENA - 52-559 V36 RAPID (26 X 1.95)
lula / handle stem:
KRIPTON X - MDHS-12 - A-HEAD stem; EXT: 90mm, Rise: +15, Length: 50mm
upravljač / handle bar:
KRIPTON X - GWHB-02, MTB - steel, W=580mm, angle: 5 deg., 22.2X25.4mm
rog / bar ends:
-
stub sedla / seat post:
KRIPTON X - GWSPSTEEL 25.4 - steel seat post 25.4x300mm long, W/O clamp
sedlo / sadle:
SELLE ROYAL - MACH PU
pedale / pedals:
FP-906, PP body, steel cage, 9/16”, with balls, with reflector
zadnji amortizer / rear shock:
-
težina kg / weight kg:
15.8
parts that i would change with
chainring https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/voznj...altus-48-38-28
front d https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...-altus-fdm-310
rear d https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...89-brzina-crni
hub https://planetbike.rs/pbshop/Bicikliz...C4%8Dine/5631/
casette https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/voznj...1-32t-8-brzina
shifters https://www.totalbike.rs/delovi/menja...gger-38-brzina
is this posibble or not?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Possible, yes, worth it, no, You have a very basic bike, and are looking to put part on it with are only just above what you currently have spec wise.
In addition to what you have listed, you would need to budget for a full re-build with new spokes for the rear wheel, as the chances of the old spokes fitting are minimal ( you need to research this), also, if you are looking to go to a 48t crank (which put the bike into the hybrid category, not an MTB), you will need a new chain. You can also probably add grips, as the old ones will probably be damaged beyond use when removing.
For which to change first, the frame, or parts; with so many different standards used in modern bikes, unless you buy all the parts specifically for the frame, you will end up with parts which don't fit, or are obsolete before you have used them.
In addition to what you have listed, you would need to budget for a full re-build with new spokes for the rear wheel, as the chances of the old spokes fitting are minimal ( you need to research this), also, if you are looking to go to a 48t crank (which put the bike into the hybrid category, not an MTB), you will need a new chain. You can also probably add grips, as the old ones will probably be damaged beyond use when removing.
For which to change first, the frame, or parts; with so many different standards used in modern bikes, unless you buy all the parts specifically for the frame, you will end up with parts which don't fit, or are obsolete before you have used them.
#3
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Possible, yes, worth it, no, You have a very basic bike, and are looking to put part on it with are only just above what you currently have spec wise.
In addition to what you have listed, you would need to budget for a full re-build with new spokes for the rear wheel, as the chances of the old spokes fitting are minimal ( you need to research this), also, if you are looking to go to a 48t crank (which put the bike into the hybrid category, not an MTB), you will need a new chain. You can also probably add grips, as the old ones will probably be damaged beyond use when removing.
For which to change first, the frame, or parts; with so many different standards used in modern bikes, unless you buy all the parts specifically for the frame, you will end up with parts which don't fit, or are obsolete before you have used them.
In addition to what you have listed, you would need to budget for a full re-build with new spokes for the rear wheel, as the chances of the old spokes fitting are minimal ( you need to research this), also, if you are looking to go to a 48t crank (which put the bike into the hybrid category, not an MTB), you will need a new chain. You can also probably add grips, as the old ones will probably be damaged beyond use when removing.
For which to change first, the frame, or parts; with so many different standards used in modern bikes, unless you buy all the parts specifically for the frame, you will end up with parts which don't fit, or are obsolete before you have used them.
for what things i need to watch?
#4
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
weight savings on bicycle
hi.
can you save some weight if you instead of steel stuff use aluminum ones or even catbon?
i am thinking on seatpost,handlebar,stem,seatpost clamp, bolts,pedals,spokes,etc.
how much weight could you save and what parts are important to change if you want lighter bicycle.
i am asking this question because my hi ten frame is 1kg to 500 grams heavier than alumium one with same equipment, so if i change seatpost,stem,spokes,etc. would i have 1kg lighter bicycle?
can you save some weight if you instead of steel stuff use aluminum ones or even catbon?
i am thinking on seatpost,handlebar,stem,seatpost clamp, bolts,pedals,spokes,etc.
how much weight could you save and what parts are important to change if you want lighter bicycle.
i am asking this question because my hi ten frame is 1kg to 500 grams heavier than alumium one with same equipment, so if i change seatpost,stem,spokes,etc. would i have 1kg lighter bicycle?
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Boise, ID
Bikes: Specialized Stumpjumper EVO R; Salsa Spearfish 2; Cannondale Six13
Your biggest gains will be had from changing things that rotate. Wheels; cassette; cranks; tires; going tubeless; and pedals. You can also shed weight in the seat; seat post; handlebars; grips; various clamps and bolts, but these gains will not be nearly as obvious as those that rotate.
I have pulled almost 6 pounds off a bike by making these types of changes.
I have pulled almost 6 pounds off a bike by making these types of changes.
#6
Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,549
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere between heaven and hell
Bikes: '09 Jamis Komodo, '09 Mirraco Blend One, '08 Cervelo P2C, '08 Specialized Ruby Elite, '07 Yeti AS-R SL, '07 DMR Drone
I highly doubt it's worth upgrading a bike made of hi-ten. You'd most likely be better off putting the money you'd use to upgrade towards a new bike.
#7
Moar cowbell


Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,480
Likes: 7
From: The 509
Bikes: Bike list is not a resume. Nobody cares.
^^ +1.
I do believe you were basically told this same advice in the other thread that you atarted about the same bike. I'm afraid that asking again in a different way is not going to give you the answer you seem to want.
I do believe you were basically told this same advice in the other thread that you atarted about the same bike. I'm afraid that asking again in a different way is not going to give you the answer you seem to want.
__________________
RST Suspension | Canfield Bikes | 7iDP Protection | Maxxis | Renthal | Hayes | VonZipper Optics | GoPro
Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
#10
Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,549
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere between heaven and hell
Bikes: '09 Jamis Komodo, '09 Mirraco Blend One, '08 Cervelo P2C, '08 Specialized Ruby Elite, '07 Yeti AS-R SL, '07 DMR Drone
^Inappropriate advice to give when the OP posted nothing about their weight. Sorry, but as someone who's had several friends who have struggled with eating disorders, I hate it when people see the cutting weight on a bike topic and suggest that the person lose weight. Is it likely that the OP has a history of an ED? Probably not. But on the off-chance that's the case, this can be triggering material.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
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well in first thread i aksed about upgrading bicycle, and the answer was NO. so i wil buy new bicycle but for now (i wont get new bicycle in 3 years) i am stuck with hiten bicycle. so in this thread i am asking can i lower the weight of bicycle. If i buy stem , handlebars,... its really cheaper then upgrading and i could buy everytime when i have got money. also some of that parts will go to new bicycle . if i buy tubeless setup , i will place them later on new bicycle ( because new bicycle is around 500$ and there is 100% that it has no tubeless) if i buy carbon handlebar ofc. it will go to new bike aswell....
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Anything and everything, take 2 mountain bikes off the shelf today, and you the only parts which will fit the other could be the pedal threads, brake levers & grips, unless you get a bike with matching specs, every other part can have at least one spec difference which makes it incompatible with others.
#13
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
well in first thread i aksed about upgrading bicycle, and the answer was NO. so i wil buy new bicycle but for now (i wont get new bicycle in 3 years) i am stuck with hiten bicycle. so in this thread i am asking can i lower the weight of bicycle. If i buy stem , handlebars,... its really cheaper then upgrading and i could buy everytime when i have got money. also some of that parts will go to new bicycle .
This is difficult, your current bike has a 25.4mm stem, 25.4mm is all but dead for new handlebars, with 31.8 now standard, you may be able to source some NOS / older 25.4 bars, but it will take some hunting.
You can throw money at any bike to reduce weight, but each gram cost more than the last. Ride what you have, enjoy it, and save for a complete bike which will offer better value for money than what you are proposing to do.
#14
Banned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 3
Waste of time and money; most of what I saw would not a be a 'fit-together' issue (although you're sure not ready for lacing a new wheel), it would just be silly to do it. Since I don't know the cost (not listed in US dollars, websites nor computer would translate), I can only say, "Don't bother".
#15
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 8
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Waste of time and money; most of what I saw would not a be a 'fit-together' issue (although you're sure not ready for lacing a new wheel), it would just be silly to do it. Since I don't know the cost (not listed in US dollars, websites nor computer would translate), I can only say, "Don't bother".
thank you.
One question. i have 5 cm long stem, and i want to buy 11cm stem, because i am short but when i sit on my friends bike its more comfortable even he is 190cm and i am 176cm
is this real felling or i am crazy**********?is better with longer stems? ( oh yes, frames are same 21")
#16
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2013
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thanks, best advice i ever read......well i just spoke with my dad next year i am getting new bike. i am hopping it will be good. maybe Polar Avalanche if they redisained it or Trek 3series to 4 series....or maybe second hand (but problem is that my parents wouldnt give cash, they will go credit ) so second hand is 20% to get even its way better equiped then trek 3500 or any bike in 500$ range.
#17
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Joined: Jul 2013
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one quick question. even i will get new bike next year, i am still gona ride this one this and half of next year. and problem is my hands that hurt too much
i am 176cm and my friend is 188-190 cm , i have stem 5cm and he has 110cm. frame dimensions are the same. and when i rode his bike i feel more comfotable . is this because of stem????
saddle heiht is same.
frames are 21 "
do you think its better to use longer stem********** please help. i really respect your answer, you helped me alot. i am now relaxed.
i am 176cm and my friend is 188-190 cm , i have stem 5cm and he has 110cm. frame dimensions are the same. and when i rode his bike i feel more comfotable . is this because of stem????
saddle heiht is same.
frames are 21 "
do you think its better to use longer stem********** please help. i really respect your answer, you helped me alot. i am now relaxed.
#18
Moar cowbell


Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 12,480
Likes: 7
From: The 509
Bikes: Bike list is not a resume. Nobody cares.
You're starting to ask the same question in two threads so I just merged them into one. Please, if you're on the same subject or talking about the same bike/situation, don't start a new thread for each question you have. Thank you.
__________________
RST Suspension | Canfield Bikes | 7iDP Protection | Maxxis | Renthal | Hayes | VonZipper Optics | GoPro
Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 105
From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Too many factors to know if stem length is an issue, frame angles, bike type, suspension travel etc to compare 2 unknown bikes.
For frame sizes, with the height difference between you and your friend, would not expect you to have anything close, thinking you will have a medium frame, and your friend a L or XL, with components sized to match.
This is a question probably best taken up with a bike shop, who can physically size you with the bike.
For frame sizes, with the height difference between you and your friend, would not expect you to have anything close, thinking you will have a medium frame, and your friend a L or XL, with components sized to match.
This is a question probably best taken up with a bike shop, who can physically size you with the bike.
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