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Old 02-22-14, 07:48 AM
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Show your repaints

I had a suspension seat post break and the bottom bracket was making some nasty noises, so I tore it down to the frame. It was black now yellow
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Old 02-22-14, 02:11 PM
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Never painted a bike. I've painted other stuff though, and there are two bikes in the background of the first picture.



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Old 02-22-14, 11:21 PM
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Was yellow. Then became lime gold metallic with red bordering. Then was bright whit with blue 'picklefork' stripping. Then was '68-'69 Ford Gulfstream Aqua with variegated gold leaf flames; and finally this - - bright white with sunrise mural (this side)/sunset mural other, all overshot with pearlescent then many coats clear.

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Old 02-23-14, 04:41 AM
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^That's impressive. How'd you do the fade? The fade on the bottom guitar was a pain in my ass...rattle cans, and masked with a piece of paper taped loosely enough that paint could get underneath, but I had little control over how broad the fade itself was. Airbrush?
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Old 02-23-14, 01:44 PM
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^^ Yes, airbrush...but with all rattle-can paints (spray into cap, pour cap into jar).Rattle can paint is perfectly thinned for great control shot through airbrush.

Your gradients turned out real good, BTW, especially considering being at the mercy of a can nozzle.
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Old 02-24-14, 01:00 PM
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Figure ill toss an actual bicycle into this thread.
Went from neighbourly donation to my self rebuilt prize.
That's not even the oldest pic I have, it was more ragged.
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Old 02-24-14, 04:55 PM
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^^ Very good. Next one we see from you we want to see is Cadillac Firemist Green (in Imron ) with gold pinstriping.
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Old 02-24-14, 05:02 PM
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Old 02-25-14, 10:57 PM
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A roadie I redid for my wife, found in a rubbish pile covered in 105. The sticker on the head tube is her family crest.

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Old 02-25-14, 11:03 PM
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And my latest commuter for the local bike thieves to come and flog, hence the locks. Rattle can. Note the head badge. (Cries of Wanker! Wanker!)

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Old 02-25-14, 11:34 PM
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Would love to know what paint you guys are using. I have a steel Bianchi Tycoon that needs a repaint on the seat stays after a repair.
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Old 02-26-14, 01:35 AM
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Here are the frames I've painted:













There are a few others I don't have pictures of. Also this year I'll be painting a couple more, including my klunker project:
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Old 02-26-14, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bane
Would love to know what paint you guys are using. I have a steel Bianchi Tycoon that needs a repaint on the seat stays after a repair.
I used Duplicolor (who also owns Krylon) enamel from an autobody shop for the guitars and for a fork that I don't have any pictures of, and would likely use the same if I painted a frame. Lots of enamel vs lacquer arguments online...Google them to see some pros and cons of each. Get the paint off/rough up the surface, couple coats of primer, sand, couple coats of paint, emptied an entire can of clearcoat on each guitar, then sand, starting with 1000 grit and going up to a 2000 grit wet sand, being careful not to take off all the clear. Pay attention to the paint directions so you let the paint cure appropriately between coats. Lots of thin layers > less thick layers. Stay far enough away from the project when you're painting, because every time I get too close my paint runs and makes a mess. Don't buy a cheap clear because it'll have a yellow tint to it. And don't put lacquer over enamel unless you want the lacquer solvents to eat your enamel off and make a mess.

Powder coating will be the most durable, but it's not really a DIY job.
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Old 02-26-14, 10:44 AM
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^^ +1 to all of what Zeph says.

I LOVE shooting lacquer but it is fussier if you aren't equipped right and/or aren't meticulous. It'll spank you quickly for being too close, being too far, stray air currents, dust, etc, etc. etc. But the payoff is a durable job that looks a mile deep, especially if you're shooting candies or metallics. Plus it smells good (oh, that's right, where a good respirator).

I used a lot of motorcycle touch-up paints. Lubritech (a now-long-gone brand) was particularly good; rattle cans were pretty controllable, paint was durable, since it was for MC - - much more durable than hardware store enamels. Used a fair amount of automotive paint too - - mostly Dietzler (now PPG) at the time or Martin Senour. Acrylic enamels had just come on the scene when I was shooting more stuff and were a far cry better than what passed for automotive enamel before. A lot tougher and more lacquer-like. Now there are so many more options in automotive paint it makes me dizzy and all I'm sure chemically superior to what I used to mess with.
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Old 02-28-14, 06:28 AM
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Old 02-28-14, 06:32 AM
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Old 02-28-14, 08:00 AM
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Here's how I paint frames. Using a engine stand I can flip the frame 360 degrees, you can't miss a spot.
I also use a DeVilbiss starting line mini gun for frames and also have a DeVilbiss GTI Pro Lite for cars and panels. The compressor pictured is dead now and I've got a large 16.5cfm compressor.



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Old 02-28-14, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jbchybridrider
Here's how I paint frames. Using a engine stand I can flip the frame 360 degrees, you can't miss a spot.
I also use a DeVilbiss starting line mini gun for frames and also have a DeVilbiss GTI Pro Lite for cars and panels. The compressor pictured is dead now and I've got a large 16.5cfm compressor.







very impressive finish, what paint to do you use?
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Old 02-28-14, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jbchybridrider
Using a engine stand I can flip the frame 360 degrees, you can't miss a spot.
Excellent idea. I'll have to remember that one - - especially since mine doesn't get much use for its primary purpose.
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Old 02-28-14, 07:52 PM
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Thanks both. It's 2K enamel, I believe it's not allowed in some US states because the hardener has isocyanates. I use a full face mask with it's own air supply but out doors with a slight wind you could get way with it.

My frame pictured is all chrome so used this etch primmer first https://www.protec.com.au/secure/down...fileid=1001469

The frame is show'n in tinted primer so the colour shade stays the same in sun light or shade https://www.protec.com.au/secure/down...fileid=1003652

This basecoat https://www.protec.com.au/secure/down...fileid=1003912

This clear and use Protec thinners for all mixing https://www.protec.com.au/secure/down...fileid=1003650

A pretty comprehensive answer there I think, sorry about that.
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Old 02-28-14, 09:00 PM
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I love detail like that. Except that it shows up how old skool my paint-savvy is. I really need to update my knowledge -base
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Old 02-28-14, 11:05 PM
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As purchased (white) and restored (yellow).


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Old 03-07-14, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MisterK
Figure ill toss an actual bicycle into this thread.
Went from neighbourly donation to my self rebuilt prize.
That's not even the oldest pic I have, it was more ragged.

That bike really looks good on those pictures. I have this friend who buys bikes and then repaints them and sells them off again. He only keeps one for himself and one for his wife but he likes to reconstruct and repaint bikes just for the fun of it so he does one for his friends who are interested as well. I think the challenge there is to also consider the personality of the one you are repainting it for in case he/she did not specify color, etc.
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Old 03-07-14, 07:32 AM
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Since I started this with a frame hanging while reapinting, here is the finished project. I had a Willys cj3 years ago and this is as close as I will get to it. Also a little personalization of my last name in the font of the Willys company that was stamped in the Jeep years ago.



My Jeep looked a little like this one.
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Old 03-07-14, 10:37 AM
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^^ Love the old flat-fenders, especially the low-hoods.
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