swifferman

https://www.bikeroom.com/Itemdesc.asp...R%2DTL%2DHMKIT

I can't find too much information about this wheelset and was wondering if you guys could kindly steer me into the direction of where some of that information is hiding.

I'm thinking of "tricking" out my bike with new brake pads, wheels and tires.
Many thanks!

Raiyn

Other than those are the wheels that I and many others have been raving about.
$161 isn't bad for handbuilt

Maelstrom 

Thats a good price. Its about 100-120 american for the pair. Its about as good a deal as you will find up here.

And I have ridden his handbuild (I own a set from him)...good quality builder.

swifferman

So these are solid eh? Good, hopefully when I've run my current pieces of trash into the ground a similar special thing will be on special. This handbuilt though, what exactly does that mean? They previously had a set on sale for $105 CAD that was essentially identical except it didn't say HANDBUILT.

Is it worth the extra $55 to go handbuilt?

Thanks

EDIT: Also, these basically destroy ANYTHING I have seen in terms of LBS prices for wheels. I saw $180 for Mavic Rims laced (right word here?) to Deore hubs and that was for each one. Can't remember what model mavic they were, but they were the lowest (cheapest) ones they had. Is this normal for an online store to have way more competitive pricing? I've never bought from an online bike store before.

phantomcow2

Handbuild means a human built them. I think its worth going handbuilt, if well made they will last a long time. THe wheel will probably have better spoke tension

swifferman

I see...

Could you briefly explain why they are stronger then a machine buildling them? I'd probably pony up the difference anyway, just want to know why exactly.

Thanks

EDIT: Also, are these compatible with rim brakes?

Thanks

phantomcow2

Well I believe handbuilt wheels have better spoke tension, which is a significant factor in lifespan of a wheel. It prevents it from losing true so easily. Also, as far as i know the machines used to build up wheels can't feel the spokes twisting when you are at higher tensions. When these untwist and set in, the wheel looses true

Maelstrom 

Yes the sidewall is big enough for rim brakes.

hooligan

Not to hijack, but recently I bought a red spoke wrench that works with my kona scrap, (brought it to the shop, red was way to go) but I'm probably going to break my wheels soon, I'm untruing them really often now, and I had to use the spoke wrench quite a bit. Now its all good. (1/4 turns of course)

So...

1) Should I just invest in another wrench, but for all spokes?
2) Are most spokes now DT sized? Did I make a mistake buying the spoke wrench, and should I have paid 15 bucks for a multi-spoke wrench?
3) Is there a price difference between spokes? Is there a strength difference?

By the way swiffer, from what I hear, hand built is a ton stronger than machine. That's pretty cheap for handbuilt anyways, but shipping will bite your wallet. (Wheelsets=Big boxes and weight) A wheel is 40 bucks + 1 buck per spoke (72 bucks per wheel!) So yeah, it will probably be good buying this off the site. At the very most 50 bucks should cut the shipping (pricepoint 50 bucks per wheel set around there at least).

phantomcow2

Ive shipped plenty of wheels. Never cost of 25
Its good to have a multi wrench around, but i dont like using them unless i have to. I like the pedros
There is a definate price different in spokes. I see generic spokes on ebay 7 bucks for 100. straight 14 guage, stands of crap if you ask me. Then you see the Sapim CXray for 3 bucks a piece in black or 2.50 in silver. These are great spokes, i believe one of the strongest on the market and still ultra light but not economical.

There is a strenth difference, high quality spokes can take better tensions, rolled threads, its worth it i will say that. I think i payed 99 cents a piece for my spokes, which sounds expensive but I have no regrets, these are teh DT revolutions. Some are butted, which is nice.

Most high quality builds have 3.3mm for the nipple, which is the standard size for DT and wheelsmith spokes

hooligan

Alright. I'll see if I can get an exchange (I kept the packaging and receipt).

phantomcow2

wait so waht are you exchanging?

Dannihilator

The black spoke wrench is the best one.

phantomcow2

oh you mean the black park wrench? Why is that the best one? I believe the green is the one for 3.3mm. but the black is good for slightly rounded off. since i got the pedros spoke wrench i have not rounded off a nipple. Its just not as easy to use as the park.

Dannihilator

The black park spoke wrench will last alot longer than the other ones.

Raiyn

I don't think you need to be screwing with your spokes

sewupnut

Now I'm eally confused. What do I do with the yellow one? Sometimes I use the red, sometimes the black and mostly the green. Never the yellow.

sun

phantomcow2

It all has to do with different sizes. Park has them listed online.
This is what most people need to know
DT/wheelsmith nipples are 3.3mm
The park Green wrench is made for DT/wheelsmith nipples

hooligan

Hey raiyn, you're probably right, but my rims were pretty untrued.
As for exchanging, it was a red IceToolz spoke wrench. Because I'm probably going to get a new wheelset soon, I probably won't find any use for the red (my shop charges a buck a spoke, hope they don't use crap-okes), so I might as well get a Pedro's Multi-Spoke Wrench, able to tighten/untighten all the different kinds of spokes in case Im lucky and get dt swisses for my spokes.

Another quick question - If you screw your spokes in too much will they
a) Snap
b) go through rim tape
c) Other, please specify:_______________

phantomcow2

If you tighten your spokes too much it causes a variety of bad things. FIrst of all, overtensioned spokes cause stress on the rims which will lead to cracking. If they are too long they will protrude past the nipple and could very well be puncturing the rim tape (its happened to me). BUt its important to know that this will not happen with properly sized spokes, before you reach the point where spokes snap the nipples will be rounded out. Good spokes will not break, Im not saying you cant have a broken DT spoke at the elbow over use, but it wont break during building is waht i mean.
I know with me once they sent them too long and i didnt htink to check them before the build (stupid on my part).. Well before any good spoke tension was reaached I had spokes protruding 1-2mm into the rim tape section, and i had run out of thread. Since then ive made it a habit to buy 1mm under without issue

phantomcow2

Oh yea as for the spoke wrench, trade in the Icetoolz crap.
I dont like multi wrenches personally, they dont provide sufficient leverage if you ask me. The park is nice in that it is easy to use, but Its possible to round out nipples. Though with brass it should not be a huge problem. The best spoke wrench I think is the Pedros spoke wrench, not the multi tool but this one

It has 4 sided engagment, ive never rounded a nipple with this. THe only problem with those is that its a little more of a pain to use than the park where you slide the spoke wrench in and go. With a 4 sided you have to slide it down the spoke, line it up and then go. But they also have 3 sided like the park on one side. ANd for 10 bucks you cant go wrong

hooligan

ACtually 10 is a lot because i gots no job. Yeah, I'll look around a little more.

phantomcow2

Ask your parents, shine your father shoes. Its well worth it, this wrench is the best of all words if you ask me. the DT one is probably nice (i have not used it). But 50 bucks, and it doesnt have the option of 4 or 3 side engagment

swifferman

Anybody got an official website link to these rims?

Thanks

phantomcow2

a link to sun rims? https://www.sun-ringle.com/