Frame vs fork travel
#1
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From: Kugluktuk, Nunavut, Canada
Frame vs fork travel
Building up a frame right now with 5.3-6.3" of travel and it's currently set at the 5.3" setting. Would it be ok to put on a fork with 80-100-120mm travel if the fork was set at the 120mm (4.7") mark? I've been around the block long enough to know that as a general rule, the fork should have as much if not more travel than the frame for balancing purposes. I'm just wondering if a fork with this minimal of a difference in travel would be a huge issue for actual riding.
#3
Moar cowbell


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Don't do it. It will not only steepen your head angle too much, it will also screw with BB height and small-bump and square-edge-hit angle of the rear suspension.
Check what axle-to-crown fork the frame was designed around, what the a to c is of the proposed fork at 120mm and what that will do to actual geometry with the fork sagged into its normal riding height; I think you'll see what I mean.
Check what axle-to-crown fork the frame was designed around, what the a to c is of the proposed fork at 120mm and what that will do to actual geometry with the fork sagged into its normal riding height; I think you'll see what I mean.
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#4
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From: Kugluktuk, Nunavut, Canada
According to BikePedia, the originally spec'd fork was 127mm (5") and the fork that I'm looking at now is 120mm (4.7") at it's max travel setting.
I knew about the bb height thing and such, I was just hoping that someone would tell me that the 7mm difference wasn't really much of a difference after all... I'm just trying to finish building up my frame without having to spend money on the bigger parts (fork, wheels) when I already have some laying around. I will if needed of course, but spending money on something that isn't necessary seems somewhat pointless.
I knew about the bb height thing and such, I was just hoping that someone would tell me that the 7mm difference wasn't really much of a difference after all... I'm just trying to finish building up my frame without having to spend money on the bigger parts (fork, wheels) when I already have some laying around. I will if needed of course, but spending money on something that isn't necessary seems somewhat pointless.
#5
Moar cowbell


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Compare actual a-to-cs; if you're still under 10mm difference, ya, you're within fudging room.
Now if you wanted a 7" dual crown for it, I have a couple of those laying around
.
Now if you wanted a 7" dual crown for it, I have a couple of those laying around
.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
#6
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From: Kugluktuk, Nunavut, Canada
Haha. My only bike worthy of a dual crown fork (Giant DH Team) has one on it already. The frame in question that I'm trying to build up is a 2002 Giant AC1 frame. I'm debating putting a Rock Shox Psylo SL fork on it (hence this thread).
#7
Moar cowbell


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I found HERE (a link worth salting away) that the Marz Shiver SC that came on that frame was 510mm. Hope that helps.
The same chart shows a 2007 Psylo SL uturn at exactly 510 as well. What do you know?
The same chart shows a 2007 Psylo SL uturn at exactly 510 as well. What do you know?
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RST Suspension | Canfield Bikes | 7iDP Protection | Maxxis | Renthal | Hayes | VonZipper Optics | GoPro
Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
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