tadpoles and lights
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
tadpoles and lights
So I'm thinking about a tadpole in the spring, but I also plan on riding in the dark quite a bit (to arrive places in the morning after starting a ride at 2:00 AM for example).
I think I'd like to have redundant dyno lights, but it looks like the options are limited.
So what does everyone do for lights on their tadpole?
I think I'd like to have redundant dyno lights, but it looks like the options are limited.
So what does everyone do for lights on their tadpole?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 817
Likes: 2
For the front, I'm using 5 and 7watt (500-900 lumen) CREE lights that use rechargeable 18650 batteries. The batteries last 1-3 hours depending on the use of high/low/flashing mode. They are mounted on Minoura and Terracycle accessory posts mounted on the front derailleur post. Right now, I have a third light mounted on my helmet - a 300 lumen CREE - for looking at things not directly in my path (street signs, around turns, at cars, etc.).
For the rear, I have a couple of cheap blinkies (which use AAA's that last over 40 hours) but am probably switching to 300 lumen CREE's (also powered by rechargeable 1860s) that I will stick red plastic "lenses" over - made from 3-D glasses I'm going to get cheaply off eBay. (I stole this idea from someone over on BROL).
As you can see, I've decided to simplify my battery/power setup.
I also use 2 flags - a large reflective safety flag and a smaller orange safety flag (on a 2nd pole).
I decided NOT to go with a dyno-powered setup because I had the batteries and recharging system AND the lights I'm using cost far less than any dynamometer light setup that I priced. Another consideration for me was there are no dyno hubs that fit my trike - a TerraTrike Cruiser - so I'd have had to go with bottle dyno's. Not all tires have sidewalls that are reinforced well enough for dyno use.
For the rear, I have a couple of cheap blinkies (which use AAA's that last over 40 hours) but am probably switching to 300 lumen CREE's (also powered by rechargeable 1860s) that I will stick red plastic "lenses" over - made from 3-D glasses I'm going to get cheaply off eBay. (I stole this idea from someone over on BROL).
As you can see, I've decided to simplify my battery/power setup.
I also use 2 flags - a large reflective safety flag and a smaller orange safety flag (on a 2nd pole).
I decided NOT to go with a dyno-powered setup because I had the batteries and recharging system AND the lights I'm using cost far less than any dynamometer light setup that I priced. Another consideration for me was there are no dyno hubs that fit my trike - a TerraTrike Cruiser - so I'd have had to go with bottle dyno's. Not all tires have sidewalls that are reinforced well enough for dyno use.
Last edited by drmweaver2; 09-29-11 at 07:33 AM.
#3
I am the Snail~!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 2
From: Near Akron, Ohio
Bikes: 2010 TerraTrike Rover 8
Like the above post, I too have learned that if you want Dyno-power, you will need to choose your trike carefully. TerraTrike does not offer any solution that will work - they seem to think a 'bottle dyno' is fine I guess.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
Yea.. I'm just tired of messing with batteries and worrying if I'll have enough capacity for my ride without carrying too much. If I wasn't planning to buy a trike, I'd put a dyno on the bike have now.
I guess I'll have to see what dyno options are available for trikes in the spring and see if I like any of those.
I thought maybe someone would have a creative solution for running a dyno hub.
I guess I'll have to see what dyno options are available for trikes in the spring and see if I like any of those.
I thought maybe someone would have a creative solution for running a dyno hub.
#5
I am the Snail~!
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 2
From: Near Akron, Ohio
Bikes: 2010 TerraTrike Rover 8
There are a number of trike makers that Dyno hubs can be used with, but not ALL of them, so you will want to verify in advance prior to buying your trike.
I can't remember, but one or two makers offer a SON hub as an option.
I can't remember, but one or two makers offer a SON hub as an option.
#6

This HP Velotechnik Scorpion was built up with a pair of dyno hubs. The purchaser used one hub for front and rear lights, and the second through a B&M eWerk to be able to charge his GPS, cell phone, etc.
Challenge also offers dynohubs on their tadpoles.
There may be others, but they arent coming to mind. I am afraid no medium or low cost trikes can be fitted with dynohubs - at least none I can think of.
Oh, any delta trike can use a conventional dynohub too.
#7
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
Hmm.. that raises my price level by about $1000, before the hubs. But this really is a car replacement.. I guess I'll have to see what finances look like next spring. If I'm lucky Terra Trike or someone will have a dyno hub available by then.
#9
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
I wouldn't use dyno lights. I keep hearing people say they're super bright, but I have yet to see any that deliver the goods even if they're way better than they used to be.
Because trikes are so low, even bright lights are less noticeable. I used to use the NR universal and PB superflash, but I'm convinced that while those might be suitable for uprights, you're really better off with a Dinotte.
Because trikes are so low, even bright lights are less noticeable. I used to use the NR universal and PB superflash, but I'm convinced that while those might be suitable for uprights, you're really better off with a Dinotte.
#10
I wouldn't use dyno lights. I keep hearing people say they're super bright, but I have yet to see any that deliver the goods even if they're way better than they used to be.
Because trikes are so low, even bright lights are less noticeable. I used to use the NR universal and PB superflash, but I'm convinced that while those might be suitable for uprights, you're really better off with a Dinotte.
Because trikes are so low, even bright lights are less noticeable. I used to use the NR universal and PB superflash, but I'm convinced that while those might be suitable for uprights, you're really better off with a Dinotte.
I followed a friend who had a Dinotte taillight- it was so bright my night vision was lousy and I couldn't anticipate bumps and potholes.
My Schmidt dynohub and B&M light work well, but not to the extent of my old Niterider. The nice thing about is I never have to worry about the state of charge or sending the battery pack to be rebuilt. In my opinion, lights are used to light up the road- if you want to be seen, it's better to wear bright clothing, like a yellow jacket. I see lots of riders with little blinkys and wearing dark jackets... and they're very tough to spot.
__________________
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
#11
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
I followed a friend who had a Dinotte taillight- it was so bright my night vision was lousy and I couldn't anticipate bumps and potholes.
My Schmidt dynohub and B&M light work well, but not to the extent of my old Niterider. The nice thing about is I never have to worry about the state of charge or sending the battery pack to be rebuilt. In my opinion, lights are used to light up the road- if you want to be seen, it's better to wear bright clothing, like a yellow jacket. I see lots of riders with little blinkys and wearing dark jackets... and they're very tough to spot.
My Schmidt dynohub and B&M light work well, but not to the extent of my old Niterider. The nice thing about is I never have to worry about the state of charge or sending the battery pack to be rebuilt. In my opinion, lights are used to light up the road- if you want to be seen, it's better to wear bright clothing, like a yellow jacket. I see lots of riders with little blinkys and wearing dark jackets... and they're very tough to spot.
In the dark, light colors are better than dark, but there's really no substitute for proper reflective gear. Passive lighting is an important component of visibility strategy.
#12
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 564
Likes: 1
From: San Francisco, California
Bikes: Brompton H6, Schwinn Mirada, Cruzbike Sofrider. Used to own: ICE B1, 2 F-frame Moultons, Koga Myata Elevation 5000 mtb, Challenge Hurricane, Riese & Mueller Birdy Silver, Actionbent Tidalwave 3
On my commuter I have a Trelock 885 led light rated at 40 lux, paired with a B&M LED rear light. It's all powered by an ancient Soubitez sidewall dyno. I fitted a larger wheel to the dyno to reduce resistance at higher speeds - with the old bulb lamp, that meant I barely had any light under 10 mph. The new LED light is plenty bright enough to see where I'm going even when crawling up a hill. At normal speeds it lights a long way ahead - I didn't appreciate how far until a recent ride on a completely unlit bike path at night, when I realized that it must be near 100 feet. (On roads with street lights and car lights I only notice a very bright area 30 feet long)
Biggest downsides to sidewall dyno - a little fiddly to get aligned correctly, and annoying noise at higher speed.
Biggest upsides - waaay cheaper than a hub, reliable, resistance barely noticeable despite what people say.
Biggest downsides to sidewall dyno - a little fiddly to get aligned correctly, and annoying noise at higher speed.
Biggest upsides - waaay cheaper than a hub, reliable, resistance barely noticeable despite what people say.
#13
Newbe
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: Pigeon Forge Severville, Tennessee
Bikes: ActionBent T1 Tadpole trike
I run a DiNotte 400R tail light, 400L headlight. Each comes with an ample supply of clips, clamps, bands and attachment gadgetry and a choice of either a 2-cell (which I have) or a 4-cell Li-ion battery with connections that are positive. Each is powered by the same type battery pack; burning the taillight on a high intensity flash pattern during the day (for roads and highways), the battery should last 4-5 hours. If it's still daytime and the battery runs down, I swap the packs running what was the headlight pack now at the rear. When that runs down. it's time for a break, so find a watering hole that will allow a 2-hour charge not only on you, but the battery as well!
The DiNotte is shamefull! I'm always put at the rear of the pack, especially at night. That's when you can crank out a red beam that might even reach outer space! I can see a red octagonal stop sign light up behind me a half mile away. The tailtight by the way is mounted to my headrest, about the same height as the seat post mounting position on a DF bike. Several lenses are also included, I believe different beam widths, but I'm real happy with the out-of-the-box performance. Mounting at the tail has the twin eyes horizontal whereas the front is place vertically taking up very little space between crank arms. The DiNotte system will make a lot of people mad , not just because the Lumans are blinding, but because ............... they want it!
Most lighting suppliers know the value of their equipment and probably price accordingly. So for those of you who place a value on not only quality, but on support as well, the DiNotte service and tech support has been exceptional.
The DiNotte is shamefull! I'm always put at the rear of the pack, especially at night. That's when you can crank out a red beam that might even reach outer space! I can see a red octagonal stop sign light up behind me a half mile away. The tailtight by the way is mounted to my headrest, about the same height as the seat post mounting position on a DF bike. Several lenses are also included, I believe different beam widths, but I'm real happy with the out-of-the-box performance. Mounting at the tail has the twin eyes horizontal whereas the front is place vertically taking up very little space between crank arms. The DiNotte system will make a lot of people mad , not just because the Lumans are blinding, but because ............... they want it!
Most lighting suppliers know the value of their equipment and probably price accordingly. So for those of you who place a value on not only quality, but on support as well, the DiNotte service and tech support has been exceptional.
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
Yes, I consider my reflective gear and surfaces to be my primary means of visibility at night. The active lighting is really just a secondary attention getter, IMO. That being said, my Class II reflective vest won't do me much good on a trike, so I'll have to have a different reflective strategy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mr_Wrench
General Cycling Discussion
30
11-30-10 03:31 PM









