Differences between mid range road bike and high end?
#101
The more you pay, the less bicycle you get.
So, pay $50, and you might get a whole 40 pounds worth of bicycle.
Pay $1000, and you might only get 20 pounds worth of bicycle.
Pay $10,000, and you only get about 15 pounds worth of bicycle.
So, pay $50, and you might get a whole 40 pounds worth of bicycle.
Pay $1000, and you might only get 20 pounds worth of bicycle.
Pay $10,000, and you only get about 15 pounds worth of bicycle.
#102
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Back to the OP's original question, something I posted on a similar thread a couple of weeks ago:
I think there's certainly a knee in the cost curve, and a $3000 bike might correspond to a $40-50K automobile, while a $7000 bike corresponds to an over $100K automobile. The fact is, you can get a pretty high performance car for not much more than $50K (such as a Vette, a BMW M3, a Boxter, a loaded Mustang with a 5 Liter engine etc). At $100-120K, you get more REFINEMENT
and customization, but not all that much more outright performance than the best of what's out there for half as much.
With bikes, the improvements are pretty easy to see running up the curve from $500 or so up to $2K. From $2K to $4-5K, the improvements continue, but they are much less dramatic. And beyond $5K, there's a lot of bling and refinement and customization, but very little added underlying performance that one can wring out with the incrementally more dollars spent.
From $500 to $2K, the main difference is going to be moving from aluminum frames up to Carbon or possibly some other exotic material (like Titanium, but that's probably more like $2500-3K minimum). The other difference, within a given type of frame, is going to be the class of components, and wheels. But the performance gains of more costly components are subtle, as are the weight savings. A $500 wheel set will be lighter than a $200 wheel set. A $1000 Wheel set will be lighter yet. But it may not be stronger.
Moving to Carbon from Aluminum, IMHO, the difference is not so much in performance, but rather, in comfort at a given weight and performance level. At $4-5K, the bike will outperform a $2K bike, but not by that much, and mainly the differences are due to shedding a couple of pounds, and providing a more precise feel - plus, at the upper end, you get digital shifting. Beyond $5K, it's almost entirely about feel, and the psyche of the rider.
I think there's certainly a knee in the cost curve, and a $3000 bike might correspond to a $40-50K automobile, while a $7000 bike corresponds to an over $100K automobile. The fact is, you can get a pretty high performance car for not much more than $50K (such as a Vette, a BMW M3, a Boxter, a loaded Mustang with a 5 Liter engine etc). At $100-120K, you get more REFINEMENT
and customization, but not all that much more outright performance than the best of what's out there for half as much. With bikes, the improvements are pretty easy to see running up the curve from $500 or so up to $2K. From $2K to $4-5K, the improvements continue, but they are much less dramatic. And beyond $5K, there's a lot of bling and refinement and customization, but very little added underlying performance that one can wring out with the incrementally more dollars spent.
From $500 to $2K, the main difference is going to be moving from aluminum frames up to Carbon or possibly some other exotic material (like Titanium, but that's probably more like $2500-3K minimum). The other difference, within a given type of frame, is going to be the class of components, and wheels. But the performance gains of more costly components are subtle, as are the weight savings. A $500 wheel set will be lighter than a $200 wheel set. A $1000 Wheel set will be lighter yet. But it may not be stronger.
Moving to Carbon from Aluminum, IMHO, the difference is not so much in performance, but rather, in comfort at a given weight and performance level. At $4-5K, the bike will outperform a $2K bike, but not by that much, and mainly the differences are due to shedding a couple of pounds, and providing a more precise feel - plus, at the upper end, you get digital shifting. Beyond $5K, it's almost entirely about feel, and the psyche of the rider.
#103
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From: Orange County, CA
#104

#105
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Bikes: 2017 Ridley Noah SL - Candy Apple DA9000, 2011 CAAD10 Berzerker Ult6800, 2013 FOCUS Mares CX Ult6800
Sure there is a difference - despite what many conspiracy theorists' may believe, the greater cost will undoubtedly bring some benefit - whether lighter components, more durable components, or potential to ride faster. The difference may be marginal, but they are also quantifiable at manufacturing / testing level, hence the different levels of product manufactured.
For someone to make a blanket statement that a more expensive bike / components will make a rider faster is, of itself, erroneous.
In a similar vein, to say that a higher priced bike will provide no advantage, is also erroneous.
Finally, for some to say 'I test rode more expensive bikes, then chose to buy a cheaper version as I couldn't tell the difference,' to me, says they couldn't afford the higher priced bike, but seemingly need to justify why they made their purchase decision - which ties back in to the worrying about what everyone else thinks argument...
For someone to make a blanket statement that a more expensive bike / components will make a rider faster is, of itself, erroneous.
In a similar vein, to say that a higher priced bike will provide no advantage, is also erroneous.
Finally, for some to say 'I test rode more expensive bikes, then chose to buy a cheaper version as I couldn't tell the difference,' to me, says they couldn't afford the higher priced bike, but seemingly need to justify why they made their purchase decision - which ties back in to the worrying about what everyone else thinks argument...
#106
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One, I disagree with you about shimano groupsets. At first, the lower end groups do shift fine, but it has been my experience that as the year goes on the higher end groups work better longer. This has been my experience. For the money difference between a 105 group and an Ultegra group, I'd get (and did get) the Ultegra group because of my past experience with Shimano groupsets. We could argue about this for days and never get anywhere, but it is IMHO.
I ride with an older lady who bought a project one Trek Madone (now at least 5 years old) and spent considerable money to get it light, as light as she could. It's a very, very light bike; carbon everywhere with Sram Red. The reason she did that is to use the bike in her advancing years so it would be easier to get up hills and go a bit faster for her. I'm sure it works for her...she is still riding and happy, which is what this is all about anyway. It's totally worth it for her to spend the scratch on a lighter, "faster," better performing bike. She is certainly not a racer, nor has any aspirations to enter a race but is still a happy "high end" race bike customer.
I'm not a carbon fan, so I'm not going to go out defending the material...but it seems to make fine bikes and wheels. I went aluminum for my wheels and I stop fine.
I agree...not worth it to me either.
For some it is though.
I ride with an older lady who bought a project one Trek Madone (now at least 5 years old) and spent considerable money to get it light, as light as she could. It's a very, very light bike; carbon everywhere with Sram Red. The reason she did that is to use the bike in her advancing years so it would be easier to get up hills and go a bit faster for her. I'm sure it works for her...she is still riding and happy, which is what this is all about anyway. It's totally worth it for her to spend the scratch on a lighter, "faster," better performing bike. She is certainly not a racer, nor has any aspirations to enter a race but is still a happy "high end" race bike customer.
I'm not a carbon fan, so I'm not going to go out defending the material...but it seems to make fine bikes and wheels. I went aluminum for my wheels and I stop fine.
I agree...not worth it to me either.
For some it is though.
My mtb: deore front and rear mech. A bit better on maintenance, lighter use in mileage: 10+ years of use, nothing replaced, still shifts perfectly.
Too early to say on my current tiagra 10. Shifts perfectly though. I don't anticipate any deterioration. 1,2, and a couple of 3 tooth jumps provide almost no challenge for a rear mech. Shimano just works.
Low end v brakes: ridiculous stopping power.
Low endish tektro: average stopping power, but breaking in very well. Kool stops as backups just in case.
I understand people wanting the latest toys, bragging rights, ego gratification, etc. But entry level shimano tech works so well, I simply don't see the need to step up to high end stuff.
I compared specialized's alu offerings (secteur and allez smartweld) with their carbon bikes, and I felt the carbons were relatively stiff and their alu frames didn't give up much, if anything, in terms of comfort. I went alu, and saved myself the hassle of dealing with carbon. Not to mention many hundreds of dollars.
Extremely satisfied with my purchase. I can save 1.5 lbs. off the bike with $350 pair of wheels, and upgrade the brakes to get excellent stopping power with kool stops. I've already invested about $12 in the pads, an incredible value. My bike is a hair over 20 lbs. with clipless pedals, and I can get that down to 18.5 lbs very easily, at around $1600 total. Not to mention I'll have two pairs of wheels with my 18.5 lb bike.
#107
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Sure there is a difference - despite what many conspiracy theorists' may believe, the greater cost will undoubtedly bring some benefit - whether lighter components, more durable components, or potential to ride faster. The difference may be marginal, but they are also quantifiable at manufacturing / testing level, hence the different levels of product manufactured.
Finally, for some to say 'I test rode more expensive bikes, then chose to buy a cheaper version as I couldn't tell the difference,' to me, says they couldn't afford the higher priced bike, but seemingly need to justify why they made their purchase decision - which ties back in to the worrying about what everyone else thinks argument...
Tiagra 10 shifts perfectly, front and rear. FACT.
Even low end tektro calipers are acceptable, and getting better with each ride, as pads wear in (and after a few minutes of adjustment).
A simple $350 upgrade can save an additional 1.5 lbs off my bike, which would bring the total to about $1600. I'm not sure if I'm going to upgrade wheels.
There are plenty of forum members who weigh 200-350+ lbs. No point in getting a bike 2 lbs. lighter then. It simply makes no difference.
#108
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
This is all so juvenile. It reminds me of kids in the back seat, "Mom, he's touching me!" Why can't cyclists just grow up and ride their bikes?
#109
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
#110
On Your Left
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From: Long Island, New York, USA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
My son regularly beat guys with $5000 bikes on his $1000 bike in crits. But he eventually upgraded to a Madone 6.5 and he's even faster.
#111
South Carolina Ed

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Bikes: Holdsworth custom, Macario Pro, Ciocc San Cristobal, Viner Nemo, Cyfac Le Mythique, Giant TCR, Tommasso Mondial, Cyfac Etoile
Finally, for some to say 'I test rode more expensive bikes, then chose to buy a cheaper version as I couldn't tell the difference,' to me, says they couldn't afford the higher priced bike, but seemingly need to justify why they made their purchase decision - which ties back in to the worrying about what everyone else thinks argument...
People that simply buy speed rather than earn it are delusional.
#112
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: 2014 Specialized Secteur Sport
TO me, to get faster it takes money/time.
If you want to improve the engine, you need to buy workout gear, gym membership, etc. and spend time working out.
or
you need to spend time dieting or spend money and time with a weight watchers,, etc. plan to lose weight and this will get you faster.
or
you buy a new bike and this makes you feel good so that you spend more time on it and push your limits a bit more and this makes you faster.
I think any combination of these will get you faster, some more than others. The last could be a placebo affect or cause endorphin release, etc or just the sensation of a new toy can lift a negative attitude and since the mental game is improved, your speed may also. And of course, a lighter bike could share some amount off of long rides.
pick your poison. I think they all work. As long as it keeps you riding, they are all good.
Does a more expensive bike help? I think it does. Even if it just makes you feel good about yourself and put more into your ride, that alone will get better performance. With trickle down of product to the lower lines, what was an expensive group set is just about what the entry level has become. Sure it is similar to 5, 7,10 or older group set but everyone loved the stuff then so other than things are even better now, there is nothing wrong with any part of the line. At the same time, the entry level is so much better than where it has been that many do not realize how much better it has gotten. It is not just the mid to upper lines that improve, all of them have which is why there seems to be satisfaction up and down the lines.
As for spending money, realize what you are trying to accomplish, make sure the fit is great, not just good and buy what will make you ride more. That in the end is what makes us better.
Frank
If you want to improve the engine, you need to buy workout gear, gym membership, etc. and spend time working out.
or
you need to spend time dieting or spend money and time with a weight watchers,, etc. plan to lose weight and this will get you faster.
or
you buy a new bike and this makes you feel good so that you spend more time on it and push your limits a bit more and this makes you faster.
I think any combination of these will get you faster, some more than others. The last could be a placebo affect or cause endorphin release, etc or just the sensation of a new toy can lift a negative attitude and since the mental game is improved, your speed may also. And of course, a lighter bike could share some amount off of long rides.
pick your poison. I think they all work. As long as it keeps you riding, they are all good.
Does a more expensive bike help? I think it does. Even if it just makes you feel good about yourself and put more into your ride, that alone will get better performance. With trickle down of product to the lower lines, what was an expensive group set is just about what the entry level has become. Sure it is similar to 5, 7,10 or older group set but everyone loved the stuff then so other than things are even better now, there is nothing wrong with any part of the line. At the same time, the entry level is so much better than where it has been that many do not realize how much better it has gotten. It is not just the mid to upper lines that improve, all of them have which is why there seems to be satisfaction up and down the lines.
As for spending money, realize what you are trying to accomplish, make sure the fit is great, not just good and buy what will make you ride more. That in the end is what makes us better.
Frank
Last edited by Fly2High; 04-07-15 at 07:18 AM.
#113
I'm doing it wrong.

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#114
On Your Left
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From: Long Island, New York, USA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
OK....
Well yesterday he came home for two days and we took the opportunity to go for a ride together. He has 2 of his bikes at his apartment and stores the rest of them in my garage. He took out his Madone 6.5 and i took my Emonda SLR. After pumping up the tires I turned around and he grabbed my bike and took off. 5 minutes later he as back and said he can definitely felt my bike as "more lively" and shifted nicer than his. Both are top end bike, his a 2012 and mine a 2015.
So yes, there is a noticible difference but only can decide if it's worth it.
Well yesterday he came home for two days and we took the opportunity to go for a ride together. He has 2 of his bikes at his apartment and stores the rest of them in my garage. He took out his Madone 6.5 and i took my Emonda SLR. After pumping up the tires I turned around and he grabbed my bike and took off. 5 minutes later he as back and said he can definitely felt my bike as "more lively" and shifted nicer than his. Both are top end bike, his a 2012 and mine a 2015.
So yes, there is a noticible difference but only can decide if it's worth it.
#115
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From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Finally, for some to say 'I test rode more expensive bikes, then chose to buy a cheaper version as I couldn't tell the difference,' to me, says they couldn't afford the higher priced bike, but seemingly need to justify why they made their purchase decision - which ties back in to the worrying about what everyone else thinks argument...
#116
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From: Florida
Bikes: Colnago CLX,GT Karakoram,Giant Revel, Kona Honk_ Tonk
This is just completely idiotic. You don't have a shred of evidence of "quantifiable" performance gains on a bike that is 2 or 3 lbs. lighter.
Feel free to provide "quantifiable manufacturer's evidence" to back up your claim.
I test rode bikes up to the $3K+ range. I decided on a far less expensive bicycle. I had to buy it, fell in love with it first ride and every test ride afterwards and post purchase has backed up my decision, and then some.
Tiagra 10 shifts perfectly, front and rear. FACT.
Even low end tektro calipers are acceptable, and getting better with each ride, as pads wear in (and after a few minutes of adjustment).
A simple $350 upgrade can save an additional 1.5 lbs off my bike, which would bring the total to about $1600. I'm not sure if I'm going to upgrade wheels.
There are plenty of forum members who weigh 200-350+ lbs. No point in getting a bike 2 lbs. lighter then. It simply makes no difference.
Feel free to provide "quantifiable manufacturer's evidence" to back up your claim.
I test rode bikes up to the $3K+ range. I decided on a far less expensive bicycle. I had to buy it, fell in love with it first ride and every test ride afterwards and post purchase has backed up my decision, and then some.
Tiagra 10 shifts perfectly, front and rear. FACT.
Even low end tektro calipers are acceptable, and getting better with each ride, as pads wear in (and after a few minutes of adjustment).
A simple $350 upgrade can save an additional 1.5 lbs off my bike, which would bring the total to about $1600. I'm not sure if I'm going to upgrade wheels.
There are plenty of forum members who weigh 200-350+ lbs. No point in getting a bike 2 lbs. lighter then. It simply makes no difference.
People are different. We all like and want different things. Who cares if the newbie buys a Pinarello instead of a Giant Defy? Who cares if the fat guy is paying more for less weight in parts? Who cares if the bike is made in China? Why is your Jersey $150 when you could get one for $35?
Maybe it makes you a tiny bit faster and maybe it does not. Maybe it is more comfortable and maybe it is not. Maybe you just like the looks of it better. It is not your money so stop worrying about it. I am quite certain that the best riders on this board would smoke most of the other riders regardless of if they were on a Motobecane, Fuji, Trek or Specialized.
We are all attracted to different bikes and cars for a reason. Personally, I see no need to spend money on a car. A Honda Accord is the best car in the world for ME. Good gas mileage. Reliable.AC. Radio. Gets me from pt A to pt B. I am happy. I do not begrudge others for what they drive. Most my neighbors have Mercedes and Lexus. I do not even notice as cars just are not important to me.
I will say that I ride Colanago equipped with Campy. I like the look. I like the ride. I love boutique bikes. They are different. Does it mesh with my car personality? No. So what. Buy what you like and stop worry about what others ride or why they ride them. If you took the time to talk to people you may find that there are reasons for what they do.
I think that all bikes are pretty nice. I have said many times that bikes in the same category of specs are all roughly the same. Fuji, Trek, Specialized, Cannondal and etc. are all great bikes. Why anybody snoots one brand because of where it is made is silly. They are all good. Ride what you ride and enjoy it. There is no reason to look down on somebody because they ride an expensive bike or because they ride an inexpensive bike. Who cares. Just enjoy what you have and let others do the same.
#117
On Your Left
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From: Long Island, New York, USA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
It sounds like this is pretty much the case with a lot of posts. I don't think most people with high end bikes expect a huge performance difference. Rather they are buying high end bikes for other reasons. It's the same with most activities - golf, tennis, fishing, running, etc. we buy what we like and makes us feel good.
A $400 bike will do 75% of a $10,000 bike.
#118
To quote a rep from Rolex when asked how things were going in the watch business: "I wouldn't know; I'm not in the watch business. I'm in the luxury business."
#119
Administrator

Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Another good one for vision came from a McDonalds executive. He was asked what the future trends in fast food is. He said "I don't know but I can say McDonalds will be selling more whatever it is than anyone else"
#120
Suppose you're riding in a group, tightly packed and near the edges of your ability to keep up. Staying in the draft is critical because if you fade back a few feet and catch some wind, they may be gone before you catch up. Even if you can catch up again, you're burning matches and you only have so many of them.
You need to match accelerations (and deceleration) to the riders ahead of you. A lighter bike, and lighter wheels, facilitates it. Sure you get the energy back with greater mass/momentum and angular momentum if you never use brakes, but that doesn't match accelerations. If the acceleration curves don't match, you're catching wind and that will cost you.
Speaking personally, I almost never ride with a group and don't sprint with people so it's just about meaningless to me. But if I did do those things, everyone else would have a tangible edge over me and my 22 pound bike until I did something about the bike weight.
#121
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From: Northern San Diego
Bikes: mid 1980s De Rosa SL, 1985 Tommasini Super Prestige all Campy SR, 1992 Paramount PDG Series 7, 1997 Lemond Zurich, 1998 Trek Y-foil, 2006 Schwinn Super Sport GS, 2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport
Comparing watch brands to car brands in terms of status and exclusivity: Timex is like Hyundai, Seiko is like Toyota, Rolex is like Cadillac, whereas Patek Philippe is like Mercedes, whereas Vacheron Constantin is like Bentley or Maybach.
#122
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Beyond the Sun
Bikes: Cannondale Supersix Evo HiMod - Sram Red
This is just completely idiotic. You don't have a shred of evidence of "quantifiable" performance gains on a bike that is 2 or 3 lbs. lighter.
Feel free to provide "quantifiable manufacturer's evidence" to back up your claim.
I test rode bikes up to the $3K+ range. I decided on a far less expensive bicycle. I had to buy it, fell in love with it first ride and every test ride afterwards and post purchase has backed up my decision, and then some.
Tiagra 10 shifts perfectly, front and rear. FACT.
Even low end tektro calipers are acceptable, and getting better with each ride, as pads wear in (and after a few minutes of adjustment).
A simple $350 upgrade can save an additional 1.5 lbs off my bike, which would bring the total to about $1600. I'm not sure if I'm going to upgrade wheels.
There are plenty of forum members who weigh 200-350+ lbs. No point in getting a bike 2 lbs. lighter then. It simply makes no difference.
Feel free to provide "quantifiable manufacturer's evidence" to back up your claim.
I test rode bikes up to the $3K+ range. I decided on a far less expensive bicycle. I had to buy it, fell in love with it first ride and every test ride afterwards and post purchase has backed up my decision, and then some.
Tiagra 10 shifts perfectly, front and rear. FACT.
Even low end tektro calipers are acceptable, and getting better with each ride, as pads wear in (and after a few minutes of adjustment).
A simple $350 upgrade can save an additional 1.5 lbs off my bike, which would bring the total to about $1600. I'm not sure if I'm going to upgrade wheels.
There are plenty of forum members who weigh 200-350+ lbs. No point in getting a bike 2 lbs. lighter then. It simply makes no difference.
#124
On Your Left
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From: Long Island, New York, USA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
#125
Are you riding more because you spent more on your bike, or did you buy the more expensive bike after you saw your mileage grow and you felt you could justify the expense?








