Anyone know how to eliminate the noise from the internal cable slap on a 2011 Fuji SST?

Where is the rattle emanating from on the bike? If its the top tube, google Specialized top tube cable rattle PDF. Specialized has a procedure for many of their carbon bikes to sleeve the bare cable running through the frame to mute the twang...common issue on many bikes.

mine makes a popping noise, which is the cables rubbing against the stem. the tight bends have them pretty stiff

SST's tend to do that. Undo the offending cable, housing and frame cable stops. Find some internal cable route sheathing and place it over maybe 80% of the length of the cable that is hidden inside the frame. Get some of those "doughnuts" you find on external routed toptube brake cables and place them at intervals along the length of the internal sheathing. Button everything back up and the noise should be greatly reduced/ nonexistent...


Or you can be lazy and live with it like I do.

thanks guys

I did the california cross on my shift cables for my bike. The donut idea should help too.

Do a google search on Fuji SST and cable rattles; I believe Fuji actually issued a document to shops for a fix (IIRC).

Had the same problem on my sons Scott Foil, but the cable entry points were too small for donuts to be slipped over and pulled through so although it was a little time consuming, here is what I did..
1.Remove the inner/outer cable complete.
2.Remove the front brake calipers
3.Remove the handlebars and secure to top tube
4.Remove the forks giving access to inside the top tube
5.Cut new brake cable about a foot longer than old cable.
6.Insert a new outer cable into rear cable hole in top tube and feed through to steerer tube.
7.Pull cable through top of steerer tube for about the same length as the top tube.
8.Buy a pair of Twist Ties from Poundland or similar, Twist Ties Grey 36 Inch 2 Pack and remove insulation sheath from one of the wires. This is just the right size sheath to slip over the brake cable. Cut the sheath a few inches shorter than the distance between where the cable enters and exits the top tube. Run a craft knife down the length of one side to make it easier for the cable to slide in.
9.Slip the insulation sheath around the cable at the front end of the cable and pull the cable through from the rear along with the sheath on it.
10.When all of the cable/sheath has dropped into the top tube, guide and push the cable through the front cable hole of the top tube and pull the cable through leaving the insulation sheath inside the top tube and around the cable (hence why the sheath needs a slit down the length to allow the cable to slide easier through the sheath yet still retain shape around the cable).
11.You are now good to go in trimming the outer cable to length and inserting the inner brake cable and setting up as usual.
12.Reassemble bearings/fork/handlebars in the order they were removed ensuring the headset bearings are adjusted correctly.
13.RESULT, no more cable slap!