Looking to replace the headset
could either have the new carbon fork threaded to use the old headset or replace the headset and go threadless
Besides Cris King... What are some good brands to start looking or keep an eye out for.

Thank you

Cane Creek (40 or older S2) and Ritchey

+1. I just got the 1 1/4 versoin of the Cane Creek 40 for my build and it's buttery smooth.

I put an M*Part headset on my bike. It works, but it's nothing special. It was only like $20 though and I was running out of budget money. Steering is smooth, but I have had some play in the headset the last month or so. I need to diagnose that...

Thank you guys/ladies

I'm having brain farts like an old chevy farm truck now. Because I love the feel of what I have now. As usual there is a college course load of information needed to understand what your doing when your adjusting your front steering.

I love how the bike feels now. It has a Cenilli quill stem with some random Cenilli Bars. I had to get the bars adjusted so I could ride on the hoods as it was at some goofy angle before. The beef is. I love how how it feels. Now I have no idea what on earth I'm going to do to when it comes time to replace the bars.
Anyone have tips on that?

I've never spent more than $20 on a headset until I decided to splurge for the Cane Creek for $55. Cheaper headsets work but I can feel the difference with this one

Then why do any of this?

Let me correct myself.
I love the position of the handlebars.
The aluminum fork is rather harsh. To harsh maybe. I get a very little but noticeable bump when ever there is the slightest change in the terrain. I sometimes think I'm doing damage to the front headtube. Where the bike already has the durability of a flower and not the oak tree. I really think enough of these little bumps will add up to the one big hit. for the record the headset is on straight and tight. there is no looseness, play, or jiggle in the headset. So honestly I have no clue where the sound is coming from, it could be a rattle from loose brakes! idk.

I hear that upgrading the fork is a huge upgrade from the bike I ride now and want to try it out. But to be honest and actually logically read your statement sir. I'm debating of having the shop thread the fork so I can keep the original headset, quill and bars. But now I just limited the forks capability correct?

Nashbar sells a threaded carbon fork (with numerous positive reviews) if you want to keep everything else the same.

ehh.. I already have a Ritchey Comp on its way (shortly after noticing the Columbus Minimal I'm pissed). To no go off on a tangent. I had to withdraw from a layaway and now have store credit. I like quality so jumped on this. I hear you on the Nashbar tho. sadly I will not have the mindset to know whats an amazing budget performance price part to the less then desired bike parts.

This is for the 25 year old carbon Allez?

Yes it is. I love the bike despite its short comings. Plus I will harvest the equipment from it when its time for me to retire it. NO ONE wants to buy the bike so I'm stuck with it. and I cannot afford to buy another. passion is overtaking this one.

While I have your attention dtrain. I'll most likely get a CXP33 Wheelset with either 105 or Ultergra equipment. The rear hub will have to be dished and trued to fit the 126mm. When one does finally go about harvesting the parts (when ones eyes are pried open and sees the light of all bikes lol). is the hub compromised? As in will there be no way to redish, true and size the hub back out to a 130-135mm for the next steel horse. NOTE: this could be a make or brake for a new wheelset.

Thank you
And yes please speak your mind. one knows that your opinion will differ to mine

Does the Allez have a functional wheelset now? And what about the current group? Yes, (I'm no expert) but I think there will be issues modifying a wheelset to fit 126mm and hoping it can be reused for 130mm+ later on.

I can see making a few mod's if you really like the feel of the frameset and want to keep it going a little longer. But some of the things you are discussing are just throwing away money that should be tucked away towards a complete new bike (IMO). Cutting threads into a new carbon fork? Modifying a new wheelset to fit 126? All for a 25 year old bonded carbon/alloy frame with a broken integrated seat clamp? I certainly wish you the best - but I'd be making some different choices personally.

Buy something cheap. 1" threadless forks are just about extinct. Otherwise you end up with a good headset and crap forks to pick from.

The OP apparently has a 1" Ritchey Comp on the way. Good luck reusing that (and the headset) when the time comes to retire the frame. Another example (IMO of course) of throwing too much money at this relic. If it's rideable - ride it. If a spoke or derailleur is broken - replace it. If it needs an overhaul and significant investment now - I'd say just retire it now.

Couldn't one just find a problem solvers and switch it to 1 1/8 via that path? or are the minimal discrepancies involved when applying that fix. The headset being used will be a simple Ritchey headset picked out by the LBS. owner said that it will without a doubt suffice for my needs.

EDIT: This

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE7n1XcWWFI

its not a purist solution. But a visual of what I was attempting to in-vision.

Okay - I'll eat some crow on this one. I didn't know such an adapter existed. Yes, that could be very handy in reusing the fork you've ordered. It seems more likely to me, however, that you'll buy a complete frameset or bike next and won't end up reusing this 1" fork. (In which case you could ebay it I suppose.)

My opinion still remains that you are sinking a lot of money into this project that would be better off in a 'better bike' piggy bank. But, it's your money and there are ways to make it work (for the most part). Research the wheel options very closely and best of luck to you.

Stubborn pride dtrain is all it is. Being a "Clyde" my primary choice would be the CXP33 since it seems to be the weighty version of an open pro.
105 would be a minimal buy while I'm debating Ultregra. Again if resizing an Ultregra hub to 126 is non reversible then that puts a scratching holt on bike money. Where I will most likely then begin to adopt your mentality.

They start at a near disposable $20 and go up from There.

A headset just sits there. Doesn't really do anything. How can anyone tell the difference between A or B ? Assuming they are of high enough quality to hold up to the job at hand, spending big $$ seems like a waste to me.

I'm looking at this. My train of thought is to just get a matching headset as the general concept of like to like seems to be logical for now. FYI: Ritchey to Ritchey

Ritchey WCS Logic Threadless Headset 1-inch Bikewagon

But the LBS recommends this

Ritchey Pro Logic Threadless Headset 1-1/8 Black Bikewagon <-- Would be the 1" version

Homebrew01 I'll sure as heck be making mistakes. What your saying makes sense. as in reality bearings are bearings and with grease you can only get them so smooth unless you invest $$$ in bearings straight out of a lab from a Mechanical Engineering facility.

To a weight weenie a more expensive headset is usually a lighter headset.

I haven't replaced many threadless headsets, but I know that there at least a 30g difference between a threaded Shimano 105 headset and a Shimano 600 headset.

I'm not a weight weenie myself, but I can easily tell the difference in weight, and operation between a 105 and a 600 headset. There's enough of a difference that I always look for a 600 headset when I need to replace one.

I have quite a few Tange threaded headsets and they work smooth, but they are way heavier than the Shimano headsets.

Tange headsets are heavier than Shimano but are extremely well made. with the right care they might outlast your bike.

Really tough to beat a Shimano 600 headset for a 1" threaded application. I have these headsets on all of my threaded fork bicycles. They are smooth, light, and bulletproof. I have one on my son's 1995 Cannondale R900 and it's smooth as butter after 26 years, about 20k miles and two clean and re-grease cycles. You can find clean used ones on eBay for $50 or less.