Freehub body, cassette biting on freehub body??
 

I have a set boyd altamonts and they have an aluminum freehub body
i want to replace it with a steel one or titanium if the price is reasonable
but i dont know which free hub body would it i have a ten speed bike?

Do you guys know which freehub i would need??

Reach out to Boyd. I think he only has alloy...but I also think you'll struggle to find one that fits on your own.

Just get a new alloy one every now and then. Beats the aggravation of searching for steel. And the weight is better. Actually the damage to the freehub body is not such a big deal.

The freehub body is unique to our hub. We do have a Ti freehub body coming out in a couple weeks for our new Eternity hubs, but the one you have is aluminum. The notches are not necessarily a bad thing.
I wrote a blog about this and you can check it out here. Notches in a Shimano/Sram freehub body

It's not a big deal until the free cogs are stuck and you need a chain whip to get them off for maintenance... and your shifts are bad because the chain can't engage the next cog. Didn't have this problem with Boyd hubs, rather with PowerTap G3 hubs. Had to switch over the Campagnolo 11 speed to stop the biting.

aaaa i see,, i just took of my cassette again and i don't know why it looked worst the first time, but its actually not even bad no need to replace thanks though

I wish boyd would make the titanium version for the altamonts will it be compatible with the altamonts??

The Titanium freehub body will only be available on the new Eternity hub. That will be a hub option for any of our wheels, but will be a $350 upgrade. We are in production on them right now, and set to release very soon.

You can extend the useful life of the Al freehub body by occasionally filing down any ridges that are raised up by the cassette gouging into it. This assures that you won't have future trouble removing the cassette. The trick is to not wait too long the first time. Problem is that after a while there won't be enough spline left to keep the cogs from rotating. That will take a while though, but still just be careful to only take off the tops of the gouges. Also I wouldn't want to advise you to do anything that would void the warranty on your hubs/wheels.

I've had a lot of aluminum free hubs with gouges. Some bad enough that it took a little bit of effort to get the cassette off.

I've never had a freehub get to the point the cogs wouldn't stay in place, even on a tandem where you're putting twice the torque to the hub.

At most, it's a slight annoyance. If anyone ever got an aluminum freehub to the point of failure, I'm pretty sure they got a lot of use out of it first.

So just keep using the aluminum body, and if ever does fail, replace it.

Oh really??

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=483981

Yes really. That freehub has many thousands of miles left on it. File the raised lumps down to the level of the tops of the splines. It will be fine. But it is mainly not such a big deal because you can just get a new one to replace it if and when that is necessary...which is not for a long time from now.

This is from my main bike. Getting the cassette off was a BIG deal, trust me. I doubt you've ever had to deal with such a situation, so tell me how you would have removed the cassette, in theory. No fair searching.

I do it all the time. Not on my own wheels but on ones I am fixing for friends and the occasional wheel customer. You just have to wiggle it off little by little. Sometimes in a really bad case you have to file the freehub in front of each cog. And once I had to put ice on the aluminum to shrink it relative to the steel cogs. If you don't wait so long to do it, it isn't such a problem. But if you file the splines flat again, you can ride that freehub for a long, long time. Remove it every few months and file it flat so the cassette doesn't get stuck again. I don't have the problem anymore personally because I use SRAM Red cassettes which don't damage aluminum freehubs.

Clearly, you've never dealt with a case nearly as severe as the one I faced. To try to "wiggle" the cassette did nothing. Prying with a screwdriver, nothing. Tapping with a hammer, nope. It was ON THERE. I've got very long arms, am fairly strong and have long tools for leverage. It seemed as if it was welded into place. I tried several suggestions from very experienced mechanics and nothing worked. I eventually came up with a solution that combined a few suggestions I'd gotten with some innovation of my own.

Look at the photo again. It's not a matter of filing down a few bumps. There are more gouges on the other side of the freehub body and just as deep as those you see. Those gouges are ready to accept the cogs of the cassette and get everything stuck all over again. I've not been foolish enough to just throw the cassette on there without some kind of shims or protectors. That would be insanity.

Yep, it can be a BIG deal..

the trouble with distorted and notched freehub splines is that the notches are not square, they ramp up and the torque created by riding tightens the cassette onto the freehub body. it can be very difficult to get off. the displaced freehub body material can make it even more difficult that one would think. there are probably 60 to 80 notches on a notched freehub.

the hard part is that there is precious little to hold on to while one tries to dislodge the cassette, that doesn't also turn with the cassette. seeing as how the cassette must be turned slightly counter-clockwise to dislodge it, and the freehub is designed to freely turn counter-clockwise too.

the problem and it's solution are similar to the one presented by a freewheel threaded on to a hub, sans rim, and that needs to be removed. ...nothing to hold on to. ... and elusive.

sometimes, two chainwhips (or one by simply shifting on to the small cog and immobilizing the crank) can help if the cassette has a separate small cog. by attaching one to the smallest cog and one to one of the middle cogs, and turning them in opposite directions, with some effort, it's possible to dislodge the multi-cog carrier counter-clockwise.

I've used these for years to minimize the gouging and avoid needing to replace freehub bodies.

10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts

I agree it can be a PITA, making a routine, quick service a time-consuming job.

American Classic's solution is brilliant: steel face inserts. It allows them to keep the weight savings of aluminum, but with the durability and usability of the steel, while avoding the considerable expense of titanium.

http://www.pezcyclingnews.com/photos...420arhubre.jpg

Yes, the AC solution is ideal. But few folks appreciate AC roads hubs like you and I do. And they are pricey which is too bad.

AC makes (made?) Steel shims that could be used on other hubs (i think).

If I had Shimano type hubs I might try making shims out of shim stock and sliding them in the gap when installing the cassette. Glad I use Campy, so this is not an issue .

Thanks to 11spd cross-compatibility, using a Campagnolo freehub and gear cluster to replace, or instead of, Shimano units is a totally legit way to solve the problem. Campy 11spd gears work perfectly under Shimano 11spd derailleurs, as do Shimano 11spd cassettes work great under Shimano derailleurs.

The AC shims are what svtmike posted a link to in post #16 above.

Here's somebody who actually understands how difficult it can be. Thank you.

I thought they also made some little sleeves that worked with standard hubs to protect them ?? maybe not.

That's the shims.

I understand, and posted exactly that scenario back on post #5

I had to use a whip on each of the 4 middle cogs of my ultegra cassette to get it out of the aluminium it had bedded in so deep.