I built my latest custom frame (north of $2,200) with 9-speed Ultegra, Ritchey cranks, stem, bars etc. Some was NOS or lightly used off eBay. I don’t think I have $1,000 in parts.

Too funny. That's baloney. We are the same size and built the same.
I never use a zero setback post...most of mine are in the 20 to 25mm setback range. Glad you like all that weight on your hands but I don't.

Titani, I told you what you need..an endurance geometry frame. If you don't understand top tube length to head tube height ratio...head tube being analogous to leg length and top tube being the bike analog to torso length, then you need to find a fitter. For many Geometry wasn't their best subject in school so you need to find a person where it comes a bit more naturally.
Also Roadguy's comment about finding a horizontal top tube bike is meaningless as well. Has nothing to do with anything. Its all about finding the frame with the stack and reach you need relative to the 'stack and reach of your body' if you understand that metaphor...which includes your native flexibility which will limit what level of saddle to handlebar drop you can tolerate.. Top tube angle has nothing to do with it aside from min seat post insertion which is a non issue with a long seat post.

Or he could grab a brand new full 105 11 speed groupset from Ribble for under $400, add some decent wheels, and still come in well under $1000. That would leave him $1400 for a frame, stem, handlebars, saddle, seatpost, and pedals.

Yes, or go with Endurance Geometry, as Campag says. What should matter to you is the stack to reach ratio, and you want effectively a high height & short length bike. You don't want to use an abnormal stem to get to your target point, because it impacts steering geometry. Short stem makes faster steering response, which many new riders find irritatingly twitchy.

The problem with all of this is we are speaking in generalities, and it depends on how far out of anthropomorphic norm you are. If you are just slightly biased to leg length, a subtle change may get you there. I am fairly well outside the norm, in the opposite direction, so I am talking about what may be a more extreme case.

Do you mind telling me about the frame?

Same here. Only problem for me is riding on the hoods. My current handlebar has 90mm reach and i'm planning to buy Zipp Service Course SL 70mm reach handlebar. Let's see what will change.

This is the real issue; there are so many combinations and permutations of the different outliers. Roll's analysis was very convincing, but a couple of things need to be added. You don't want to sit at either 90 or 0 degrees all the time, but 45 degrees (back angle) isn't a fixed requirement either. There is plenty of leeway on back angle to get a reasonably efficient cycling experience. And then the elbow bend angle and angle on "the arc" of the upper arm to the shoulder is also very important. No matter how well your arms reach down low to the bars on a small frame, if it means your elbows are pinned to your body due to very short reach, you will feel cramped. Sure, out of normal range body dimensions are a problem, but apparently there are many approaches to solving it. Good ideas all over here. Just determine how you like to position yourself when riding and start from there.

What does it mean: "zero-setback post" ?

The truth is that most manufacturers 56 and 58 CM bikes can probably be dialed in to fit you. I had a Trek 1500 in 58 and now have a Specialized Tarmac in 56. Cannondale's Synapse 56 fits me well. No mods on any. I do run with my stem in the up position rather than angled down. Between stem length and angle, seat post height and seat fore and aft position, you should be able to adjust to find a sweet spot.

Scroll down this page to "Seat post height and setback": How to Fit Yourself on a Mountain Bike Like a PRO | Singletracks Mountain Bike News

For many years the center of the seat post clamp was usually 1 inch/25 mm behind the center line of the post pillar. That is called a 25 mm setback. On the more or less standard frame it helped to get the normal person's foot in a good position over the pedal for the riding style of the time. Nowadays some folks like to ride more forward and/or buy frames with a slacker seat tube angle. To get the saddle position they want fore-aft and still have their saddle close to centered on the clamp (which BTW is NOT required at all), they need a post that is not set back as much. Hence the rise in popularity of the zero setback seat post.

I feel more comfortable on the drops, than on the hoods. I cannot explain it. Would you tell me why?

Titani, all of this can be overwhelming. If you have visited a shop that you like, go back. Tell them that you are very interested in buying a bike from them and ask them if they mind spending a little time with you. Most should be happy to work with you. Take a bike for a decent spin. Come back and tell them how it's not quite right. They can figure out how to adjust it based on what you tell them. Whatever shop you deal with, let them know you are serious about buying and make sure they seem willing to spend time with you. Make sure you have time to spend with them too. You aren't so uniquely proportioned that a bike can't be adjusted to fit you. It's also important to note that fit is subjective to some degree. You and I, while built alike, may have preferences within a fit range that are quite different. That's why it takes time to get one adjusted in. $2200 is a good chunk of change, so most shops shouldn't mind investing time in fitting you. I have a hunch that you are going to like the way a Specialized Roubaix fits.

Then once you know exactly what geometry and adjustments work for you, go order from Bikes Direct. Shops love that!

Did not read all the posts, but FWIW, I'm 5'9" totally average proportions and my bike inseam (bare floor hard up against the crotch) is 34". Pants inseam is 31=32". A 34" bike inseam at 5'11" is pretty average, if a bit short, IMO.

Good idea. Once I know the geometry, and the adjustments, do I compare numbers with BikesDirect geometries, to find something close? Usually, they are not identical, right?

titani,
in 4 pages we got you to an answer that is typically the best one: go to a bike shop that knows how to fit and is willing to spend the time to fit you properly.

This is the answer in ALL CASES - normal or not geometry.


I have just one question for you. You have already been through hell trying to find a bike that fits and now you finally find one with the extended help of a LBS and you are going to try to find something else somewhere else that MIGHT FIT???

Personally, I would just up and buy the bike that the LBS helps me with even if I have to spend a few bucks to get it.

Once you determine what fits, either order that exact bike or buy it immediately from the shop who helped you. You might not find another bike that fits the same. you could get close but, to me, once you get that right fit, it is heaven and why mess with it? If you can find it cheaper, it cannot hurt to ask the shop to work with you on the price. They could come close and some might match it.

IMHO.

The Voice of the Industry speaks with a lot of attitude, but good information nevertheless. Now I think about it, this is pretty much par for the course of the high-end bike shosp in my area: they know their *****, but you better be prepared to deal with some attitude.

Well i feel exactly the same. I'm hoping this thing will help with that. Zipp Handlebar Service Course SL-70 | Handlebars | Merlin Cycles

I'm 5'9" and this is my 54cm Synapse.

When are you going to cut off that extra steerer tube? I wouldn't feel safe with that thing sticking up like that.

He's trying to conform to UCI rule #12-a )c-2: the hoods must be lower than the top of the steerer tube

I was kidding about getting a shop to invest all that time in you only to ditch them for BD. Get them to invest time in you and when they help you find that sweet spot, reward them with your business.

Thanks. Good suggestion, and nice bike.

I think this post helped me figure it out:
1) Endurance Geometry Bike - Size as specified for my height
2) Seat a little to the front
3) Little shorter stem
4) Little shorter-reach headbar
To solve the problem of my long legs, short torso.

Be careful with 2), depending on your age, you may be asking for knee troubles if you move the saddle too far to the front. Thats' why the imaginary horizontal saddle distance from BB is one of the key numbers to dial in first for most fitters.

Yes, thanks.