ellie123

My road bike came with a 50/34 12/28 but being a mountain biker I find these gears really hard! Theres a few big hills around that I want to tackle on my Road bike but I reckon I will need 32 teeth. Will it even make much of a difference? The gear ratio will go from 1.2 to 1.1 so I'm thinking its probably not worth the time/money as I would need a new Derailleur
yay or ney?

Homebrew01

Let your legs decide. They know better than people on the interwebz.
More than 10% lower gear might make the difference for you.

DrIsotope

Replacing my 11-28 with an 11-32 was one of the best things I've done to my bike. I still use the 28 more than the 32, but in those instances when I need that 32, I sure am glad it's there.

Doctor Morbius

It's totally up to you and your level of fitness. So, if you get fitter you can keep your current gearing and the long green it would cost to make the hardware change.

hyhuu

Ride the 12/28 for a while and see if it gets better. If not, go for the bigger cassette. Most people do fine with 34/28.

yooperbiker

The lowest on my road bike is 34:26. I would have gone with 28 but RD couldn't handle it (Sante short cage). 34:28 is a pretty good gear for hills unless fitness/weight just can't handle it. I would say give it some time and see if it works. If you end up having to walk/push the bike up hills you know you need a lower gear.

kbarch

If it's just hard in comparison to your mountain bike, you could get used to your current setup. But if you feel you're really approaching your limit and want to tackle some longer and steeper hill sometime soon, you'll want something easier of course. My advice would be to just try those big hills with what you have and see if you absolutely have to get off and walk.

Maelochs

Try before you buy. The greater efficiency and lighter weight of the road bike might make 34-28 work fine on those hills.

A mountain bike, particularly if it is full suspension, but any MTB with its wide tires and higher weight, will climb more slowly and since you are often climbing on dirt or such, a lot more energy is needed. A lighter, rigid frame with skinny tires on pavement is in a different world. The numerical comparisons are not valid. On a road bike, a 34-tooth chainring probably compares to a 24 on an MTB.

Or ... I could be wrong. Try before you buy.

Smokehouse

Like everyone says, it's individual...but I'll give my findings on it.

I'm running a more aggressive front (52/36) and when I went to a 12-32, I found 36/32 to be WAY too much spin, even on the toughest of climbs. I went back to my good old 11-28 and was much happier.

The only time I'm using 36/28(32) is when I'm out of gas on a very steep climb and I need to sit and grind out the rest (LOL...sit and spin). At 36/32, it was too much of a spin and I found it would drive my HR too much.

indyfabz

Ride a hill that you can normally handle comfortably in your 34x28 but instead use your next smallest cog. If that gear is 10% higher you will get an idea as to whether a 10% drop on the low will be worth it.

TrojanHorse

People say "toughest of climbs" and "hills" with absolutely no reference to how heavy they are, where there fitness is or how steep the actual road is (or how long the climb is, for that matter).

I can get up 99% of everything around me with a 34/28 or even a 34/26 but there are a few select roads near me that I will not make it up. 15% grade for more than a mile or two and my knees are crying. It is highly likely that your hills / weight / fitness are different from mine, so it would be useful to know where you're located and the rest.

RPK79

I'm perfectly happy with the 34/28 for anything around me. I imagine anything easier than that and I may as well just get off the bike and walk.

superdex

keep the 28. make you stronger, it will.

quicktrigger

Do what YOU like. Forget every one else's opinion. We're all just text on a screen.

QT

RPK79

Don't listen to him. Do what I say, no questions asked.

Wanderer

When I went from a 26 to a 30, the difference was HUGE! 10%+ is a big difference. With a 50/34 on the front, in hindsight, I should have gone for a 12-30, instead of the 11-30. Would have gained another usable gear.

UnfilteredDregs

You're already geared for significant hills. HTFU.

jsigone

unless it's dirt or gravel the 32t of WAAYY overkill..especially with compact 34s. The wind will knock you over because you're going so slow.

rmfnla

Or it will mess up his knees...

RPK79

If that's the case she (judging by the screen name) should just quit cycling now to avoid the knee issues.

Maelochs

Try before you buy. Regardless of all the different Opinions, the only Data will be generated when the OP actually tries to climb some hills with 34-28. Then there will be facts to discuss ... which means the thread will die.

RPK79

Or will it? Maybe this thread will last forever!

bigdo13

11-36!!

Fly2High

OP,
I am with you. I just started cycling and live on Long Island (no big hills). For me, .2miles up a 12-15% and I need the 34:32. (I too have compact crank(50/34). I only have a 9 Sp Sora setup. Going to a 11-28 instead of a 11-32 only would get me a 13 gear which I really do not feel I need.

I m happy to have an 11-32 cassette. I do have a 28T gear so I can practice with it as I please.

If it matters, I am 6' 1" 202lbs (about 15 overweight). I have improved doing 1000-1300ft of climb n 12-20 miles many times a week. I have been able to do rides now that max out at about 3000 ft of climb over 62 miles. I am dead but I finish without walking.

rmfnla

Oh, didn't see the screen name; thanks!

As for the knees, I did some serious damage to mine on a long ride with big climbs. I was feeling strong and showing off so I pushed gears that were too tall for me, and I paid for it afterward.

I didn't quit cycling but my knees have never been the same since...