Do you really use your 11 cog to go faster?
12-03-15, 04:43 PM
#176
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@PepeM, you get better power transfer by having a slightly longer crank arm on the drive side, say 175 vs 165 for the NDS.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
12-03-15, 06:14 PM
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@PepeM, you get better power transfer by having a slightly longer crank arm on the drive side, say 175 vs 165 for the NDS.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
Funny, both of my cranks are fixed to the axle so I get power from both sides; what a concept...
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12-04-15, 10:40 AM
#181
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@PepeM, you get better power transfer by having a slightly longer crank arm on the drive side, say 175 vs 165 for the NDS.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
12-04-15, 10:50 AM
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So you also think more power comes from the drive side than the off side..?
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12-04-15, 11:35 AM
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Drive side:
Non-drive side:
This is for an estimated sustained power of 400 watts (N=11). If you aren't that strong, you probably won't see such a dramatic difference.
@PepeM great investment, just make sure you move your cadence sensor over to the drive side because your cadence will be 15-20 rpm higher on the NDS and that can throw off your training. Good luck.
12-04-15, 11:43 AM
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12-04-15, 11:45 AM
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12-04-15, 12:17 PM
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It seems you're having a hard time with this. Let me know if this helps:
Drive side:
Non-drive side:
This is for an estimated sustained power of 400 watts (N=11). If you aren't that strong, you probably won't see such a dramatic difference.
@PepeM great investment, just make sure you move your cadence sensor over to the drive side because your cadence will be 15-20 rpm higher on the NDS and that can throw off your training. Good luck.
Drive side:
Non-drive side:
This is for an estimated sustained power of 400 watts (N=11). If you aren't that strong, you probably won't see such a dramatic difference.
@PepeM great investment, just make sure you move your cadence sensor over to the drive side because your cadence will be 15-20 rpm higher on the NDS and that can throw off your training. Good luck.
Are you sure the difference is not just because a right-handed person's right leg is probably stronger than their left..?
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12-04-15, 12:25 PM
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And I'm pretty sure that the RPMs are the same on both sides of the same axle, unless the axle is a rubber band. Distance traveled per rotation will be greater on the side with the longer crank, because the circumference of the circle is greater, but the number of rotations is pretty clearly the same on both sides.
12-04-15, 12:28 PM
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And I'm pretty sure that the RPMs are the same on both sides of the same axle, unless the axle is a rubber band. Distance traveled per rotation will be greater on the side with the longer crank, because the circumference of the circle is greater, but the number of rotations is pretty clearly the same on both sides.
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12-04-15, 12:56 PM
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If you were to build a bike with the wheels perpendicular to the frame you'd be able to recover some of that lost power.
12-04-15, 01:44 PM
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@PepeM, you get better power transfer by having a slightly longer crank arm on the drive side, say 175 vs 165 for the NDS.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
Think about it, it's simple physics. The side with the spiky bits gets pushed in bigger circles because that's the circle that moves the little metal belt thing that makes you not stop.
I think it's safe to say that IF you're spinning out in your 12t, you should probably go to a longer drive side crankarm before upgrading to an 11t.
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12-04-15, 02:10 PM
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This is my experience also. I tend to drop to one lower gear when it's my pull, and spin around 90-95. I need the extra leverage to lead into the wind. Once I'm back inside the line, go one higher gear back to 80-85 and let the HR return to the lower level for longer efforts.
12-04-15, 02:10 PM
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12-04-15, 02:11 PM
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@D1andonlyDman, this is how the RPMs can be different:
Bear with me.
Obviously B is your foot. V1 and V2 are arrows. O is the NDS axle spindle. r1 and r2 vary based on whether your BB bearings are ceramic or not.
If V1 (nds) = 95, then B * V2 - r2 (drive side rotational velocity) = 132.
Seems pretty clear to me.
12-04-15, 03:45 PM
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This guy gets it.
@D1andonlyDman, this is how the RPMs can be different:
Bear with me.
Obviously B is your foot. V1 and V2 are arrows. O is the NDS axle spindle. r1 and r2 vary based on whether your BB bearings are ceramic or not.
If V1 (nds) = 95, then B * V2 - r2 (drive side rotational velocity) = 132.
Seems pretty clear to me.
@D1andonlyDman, this is how the RPMs can be different:
Bear with me.
Obviously B is your foot. V1 and V2 are arrows. O is the NDS axle spindle. r1 and r2 vary based on whether your BB bearings are ceramic or not.
If V1 (nds) = 95, then B * V2 - r2 (drive side rotational velocity) = 132.
Seems pretty clear to me.
12-04-15, 04:06 PM
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If your cranks on both sides are the same length, say 175mm. Then the pedals go through a circle of 2πR = 2*3.14*175mm = 1100 mm per circle.
This will be the same for both sides. So, say you're cranking away at 60 RPM (same on both sides unless you're using "PowerCranks"). So, both sides will be rotating through 60 revolutions per minute, and passing around about 66 meters (per minute).
The average rotational velocity has to be the same for both pedals.
The two pedals, of course, are 180° out of phase, so while you're pushing one, you're resting or pulling with the other.
You may get some microaccelerations, especially on a slow cadence hill climb where the bike speeds up with he power stroke, and slows down at the top/bottom of the stroke (about the same for both sides).
Even if you mount an eccentric chainring, it is usually mounted to affect each side the same.
Perhaps the one difference is that some bottom bracket spindles are asymmetric, but even that isn't very common Are the crank arms still symmetric?.
This will be the same for both sides. So, say you're cranking away at 60 RPM (same on both sides unless you're using "PowerCranks"). So, both sides will be rotating through 60 revolutions per minute, and passing around about 66 meters (per minute).
The average rotational velocity has to be the same for both pedals.
The two pedals, of course, are 180° out of phase, so while you're pushing one, you're resting or pulling with the other.
You may get some microaccelerations, especially on a slow cadence hill climb where the bike speeds up with he power stroke, and slows down at the top/bottom of the stroke (about the same for both sides).
Even if you mount an eccentric chainring, it is usually mounted to affect each side the same.
Perhaps the one difference is that some bottom bracket spindles are asymmetric, but even that isn't very common Are the crank arms still symmetric?.
12-04-15, 04:39 PM
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This guy gets it.
@D1andonlyDman, this is how the RPMs can be different:
Bear with me.
Obviously B is your foot. V1 and V2 are arrows. O is the NDS axle spindle. r1 and r2 vary based on whether your BB bearings are ceramic or not.
If V1 (nds) = 95, then B * V2 - r2 (drive side rotational velocity) = 132.
Seems pretty clear to me.
@D1andonlyDman, this is how the RPMs can be different:
Bear with me.
Obviously B is your foot. V1 and V2 are arrows. O is the NDS axle spindle. r1 and r2 vary based on whether your BB bearings are ceramic or not.
If V1 (nds) = 95, then B * V2 - r2 (drive side rotational velocity) = 132.
Seems pretty clear to me.
The crank is a single unit; it all rotates at the same rate.
That guy may get it but you apparently do not...
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12-04-15, 04:56 PM
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