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-   -   Thinking about upgrading / converting hybrid (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/1048181-thinking-about-upgrading-converting-hybrid.html)

bikeclub 02-09-16 02:43 PM

Thinking about upgrading / converting hybrid
 
I am interested in converting my commuting hybrid bicycle into an all-around riding / touring / gravel bike, or, the poor man's version of the Rivendell lifestyle. :)

Also, I have a question about how much bike frames differ across manufacturer lines or levels. The reason why I ask is that I have a relatively cheap bike, but Fuji has other similar but more expensive models in their line that usually only apparently differ in group sets, wheels, etc. This leads me to think about these options: going through the trouble of converting the bike I have; or going out to seek out an old frame and parts; or spending more on a new bike, or parts, etc.

My existing bike is not a great bike, but it already has some of the things I need. It's a 2011 Fuji Absolute 3.0 flat bar hybrid that I bought on sale for $350, usually cost around $500 at that time -- but it already has:
  • a rack and fenders, plus could fit wide tires;
  • it has V-brakes with good stopping power;
  • already has a triple front crank
  • has the right lengths top-tube, seat-tube, plus a rising top tube, for me to convert it to a drop bar off roader; and
  • most importantly, I find the aluminum frame to be a fairly pleasant if slow ride.
Only thing not on this list that I'd like would be fittings for a front rack that could take panniers or more stuff for bike camping.

Things I could do for under $500, which is much cheaper than seeking out anything new (whether it is based on old or new parts):
  • paint the frame (professionally or on my own)
  • upgrade the drivetrain
  • build particular wheels suited to my purposes
What do you think?

dr_lha 02-09-16 02:51 PM

Drop bar conversions can be tricky, for geometry reasons. Often the bike ends up not being what you want in terms of fit or comfort.

However, you could convert this bike to drop bars quite easily by simply replacing the handlebar and getting some 8-speed STI shifters (e.g. wiggle.com | Shimano ST-2400 Claris 8-speed Road STI levers | Gear Levers And Shifters Road ). From what I see the bike has mini-V brakes, rather than V-brakes, so they should be compatible with the STI shifters.

Are you hoping to get the bike repainted, upgraded drivetrain and with a new wheel build for $500? I'd suggest looking for a used/cheap bike honestly.

bikeclub 02-09-16 03:16 PM

Hmm: was thinking repainting ($125), upgrade parts of drivetrain ($200), and wheels ($75 hubs + $60 spokes + already have rims).

The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.

A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).

RollCNY 02-09-16 04:16 PM

Often times, comfortable flat bar geo does not translate as well to drops. Your hands will move much farther forward to reach the hoods. There exist some treking bars that would keep your current controls, plus give you extra hand positions.

If you choose to convert, the new 4700 Tiagra group kept a triple, IIRC. It should be cheaper than 105, which only comes with a double option.

dr_lha 02-09-16 05:05 PM


Originally Posted by bikeclub (Post 18523928)
Hmm: was thinking repainting ($125), upgrade parts of drivetrain ($200), and wheels ($75 hubs + $60 spokes + already have rims).

The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.

A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).

The problem will be, what happens when you spend all that money and get on the bike and find it uncomfortable? This is the biggest risk of doing a flat bar conversion.

bikeclub 02-09-16 05:46 PM


Originally Posted by dr_lha (Post 18524185)
The problem will be, what happens when you spend all that money and get on the bike and find it uncomfortable? This is the biggest risk of doing a flat bar conversion.

Perhaps thinking about the drop bar is a red herring / diversion, though it's the cheapest fix, maybe $30 for bars, $50 for a stem, and some handlebar tape. The other $500 could all be spent to make the bike better regardless of the drop bar.

Maelochs 02-09-16 06:03 PM


Originally Posted by bikeclub (Post 18524280)
Perhaps thinking about the drop bar is a red herring / diversion, though it's the cheapest fix, maybe $30 for bars, $50 for a stem, and some handlebar tape. The other $500 could all be spent to make the bike better regardless of the drop bar.

$30 for the bars, $30 for the stem if you want to spend a lot ... and $80-$130 for the shifters depending on what you get.

PaulRivers 02-10-16 11:20 AM

Converting a bike with knobby tires to slicks, or suspension to no suspension, can make sense.

I don't know that converting a flat bar bike to a road style bike makes sense. Some of the geometry is different. And they can do a lot to reduce road vibration in a road bike using computer design, that you won't get if you just do a conversion.

With the amount of money you're talking about to convert it, I just think you'd be happier in the end buying a lower cost road bike. I know I've read very good things about how bikes like the Specialized Smartweld Allez do a good job of reducing road vibration despite being aluminum, a good enough job they say it kinda makes an entry level carbon bike pointless.


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