Thinking about upgrading / converting hybrid
#1
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Joined: Feb 2016
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Many machines in pieces on the ground.
Thinking about upgrading / converting hybrid
I am interested in converting my commuting hybrid bicycle into an all-around riding / touring / gravel bike, or, the poor man's version of the Rivendell lifestyle.
Also, I have a question about how much bike frames differ across manufacturer lines or levels. The reason why I ask is that I have a relatively cheap bike, but Fuji has other similar but more expensive models in their line that usually only apparently differ in group sets, wheels, etc. This leads me to think about these options: going through the trouble of converting the bike I have; or going out to seek out an old frame and parts; or spending more on a new bike, or parts, etc.
My existing bike is not a great bike, but it already has some of the things I need. It's a 2011 Fuji Absolute 3.0 flat bar hybrid that I bought on sale for $350, usually cost around $500 at that time -- but it already has:
Things I could do for under $500, which is much cheaper than seeking out anything new (whether it is based on old or new parts):
Also, I have a question about how much bike frames differ across manufacturer lines or levels. The reason why I ask is that I have a relatively cheap bike, but Fuji has other similar but more expensive models in their line that usually only apparently differ in group sets, wheels, etc. This leads me to think about these options: going through the trouble of converting the bike I have; or going out to seek out an old frame and parts; or spending more on a new bike, or parts, etc.
My existing bike is not a great bike, but it already has some of the things I need. It's a 2011 Fuji Absolute 3.0 flat bar hybrid that I bought on sale for $350, usually cost around $500 at that time -- but it already has:
- a rack and fenders, plus could fit wide tires;
- it has V-brakes with good stopping power;
- already has a triple front crank
- has the right lengths top-tube, seat-tube, plus a rising top tube, for me to convert it to a drop bar off roader; and
- most importantly, I find the aluminum frame to be a fairly pleasant if slow ride.
Things I could do for under $500, which is much cheaper than seeking out anything new (whether it is based on old or new parts):
- paint the frame (professionally or on my own)
- upgrade the drivetrain
- build particular wheels suited to my purposes
#2
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Central PA
Bikes: 2016 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross v5, 2015 Ritchey Road Logic, 1998 Specialized Rockhopper, 2017 Raleigh Grand Prix
Drop bar conversions can be tricky, for geometry reasons. Often the bike ends up not being what you want in terms of fit or comfort.
However, you could convert this bike to drop bars quite easily by simply replacing the handlebar and getting some 8-speed STI shifters (e.g. wiggle.com | Shimano ST-2400 Claris 8-speed Road STI levers | Gear Levers And Shifters Road ). From what I see the bike has mini-V brakes, rather than V-brakes, so they should be compatible with the STI shifters.
Are you hoping to get the bike repainted, upgraded drivetrain and with a new wheel build for $500? I'd suggest looking for a used/cheap bike honestly.
However, you could convert this bike to drop bars quite easily by simply replacing the handlebar and getting some 8-speed STI shifters (e.g. wiggle.com | Shimano ST-2400 Claris 8-speed Road STI levers | Gear Levers And Shifters Road ). From what I see the bike has mini-V brakes, rather than V-brakes, so they should be compatible with the STI shifters.
Are you hoping to get the bike repainted, upgraded drivetrain and with a new wheel build for $500? I'd suggest looking for a used/cheap bike honestly.
#3
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Many machines in pieces on the ground.
Hmm: was thinking repainting ($125), upgrade parts of drivetrain ($200), and wheels ($75 hubs + $60 spokes + already have rims).
The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.
A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).
The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.
A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).
#4
Speechless
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Central NY
Bikes: Felt Brougham, Lotus Prestige, Cinelli Xperience,
Often times, comfortable flat bar geo does not translate as well to drops. Your hands will move much farther forward to reach the hoods. There exist some treking bars that would keep your current controls, plus give you extra hand positions.
If you choose to convert, the new 4700 Tiagra group kept a triple, IIRC. It should be cheaper than 105, which only comes with a double option.
If you choose to convert, the new 4700 Tiagra group kept a triple, IIRC. It should be cheaper than 105, which only comes with a double option.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,843
Likes: 16
From: Central PA
Bikes: 2016 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross v5, 2015 Ritchey Road Logic, 1998 Specialized Rockhopper, 2017 Raleigh Grand Prix
Hmm: was thinking repainting ($125), upgrade parts of drivetrain ($200), and wheels ($75 hubs + $60 spokes + already have rims).
The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.
A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).
The drivetrain is the weakest part of my thinking, though. Chainrings, crank, cassette and chain all worn, so probably needs thorough fix. Merlin Cycles does have complete 105 groupset for $315, though. This is still all cheaper than buying a Soma or Surly frame, though, which starts at $400, and then I have to add on all of the above anyway.
A used or cheap bike _is_ probably the way to go, though I do like the fit of the bike, plus not wasting it (though I could sell it whole, I guess).
#6
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 133
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: Many machines in pieces on the ground.
Perhaps thinking about the drop bar is a red herring / diversion, though it's the cheapest fix, maybe $30 for bars, $50 for a stem, and some handlebar tape. The other $500 could all be spent to make the bike better regardless of the drop bar.
#7
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Joined: Oct 2015
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Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
$30 for the bars, $30 for the stem if you want to spend a lot ... and $80-$130 for the shifters depending on what you get.
#8
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Converting a bike with knobby tires to slicks, or suspension to no suspension, can make sense.
I don't know that converting a flat bar bike to a road style bike makes sense. Some of the geometry is different. And they can do a lot to reduce road vibration in a road bike using computer design, that you won't get if you just do a conversion.
With the amount of money you're talking about to convert it, I just think you'd be happier in the end buying a lower cost road bike. I know I've read very good things about how bikes like the Specialized Smartweld Allez do a good job of reducing road vibration despite being aluminum, a good enough job they say it kinda makes an entry level carbon bike pointless.
I don't know that converting a flat bar bike to a road style bike makes sense. Some of the geometry is different. And they can do a lot to reduce road vibration in a road bike using computer design, that you won't get if you just do a conversion.
With the amount of money you're talking about to convert it, I just think you'd be happier in the end buying a lower cost road bike. I know I've read very good things about how bikes like the Specialized Smartweld Allez do a good job of reducing road vibration despite being aluminum, a good enough job they say it kinda makes an entry level carbon bike pointless.
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