Titanium or Steel
#51
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From: Utah
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
#53
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
Hey, I'm 73 and not as flexible as I used to be. It is what it is and it works for me.
#54
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From: Hudson Valley, NY
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene '04; Bridgestone RB-1 '92
In your avatar you look great for 73.
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#56
I wanted to love titanium. I've ridden a couple titanium bikes now and just did not find the love at all. I had a Lynskey R240 built to my spec, installed my own wheels and tires on it that I used on another bike and one long ride on the chipseal roads in my area was enough to let me know I'm not a titanium guy. I really wanted to be as I love the look of the Lynskey bikes, but the titanium bikes I've ridden just didn't feel good to me like steel does. It's like and sexy as hell, but it feels like noodly aluminum to ride. As someone mentioned earlier, if you do order a Lynskey, go ahead and get the Enve fork option. Much better, imo. Bottom line, if you like aluminum, you'll love titanium.
On the other hand, if you are not a fan of the feel of aluminum, then go steel. Whatever flavor floats your boat. I've tried plain 4130, 520, 753, 853, OX Platinum, it all feels good to ride. Those 953 bikes sure are pretty. I really like that Anderson 953 with blue accents someone on the forum owns. Something like that is on my dream list for down the road.
On the other hand, if you are not a fan of the feel of aluminum, then go steel. Whatever flavor floats your boat. I've tried plain 4130, 520, 753, 853, OX Platinum, it all feels good to ride. Those 953 bikes sure are pretty. I really like that Anderson 953 with blue accents someone on the forum owns. Something like that is on my dream list for down the road.
#57
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
I should; it was taken in 1972 when I was 30. 
I still have the hair, but it's white now.

I still have the hair, but it's white now.

#58
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 178
Likes: 6
If you are serious about TI, take a look at Lynskey. A little less cost than Moots and all of the benefits of titanium. Plus they will do a custom sizing for you. Moots are great bikes but a little pricey. I bought my Lynskey back in 2008 with the same comment "this will be the last bike I buy" to my wife. So far have not looked at other bikes, but have upgraded some of the components over time.
#59
OP, this is blown WAY WAY out of proportion. The reality is that unless you frequently ride in heavy rain or you leave your bike outside in the rain (which only an idiot would do) there is virtually no chance of rust or corrosion occurring with steel for decades. IF then.
#60
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From: Hudson Valley, NY
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene '04; Bridgestone RB-1 '92

Yeah there's always rare exceptions to ANYTHING.
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See, this is why we can't have nice things. - - smarkinson
Where else but the internet can a bunch of cyclists go and be the tough guy? - - jdon
#62
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
I wanted to love titanium. I've ridden a couple titanium bikes now and just did not find the love at all. I had a Lynskey R240 built to my spec, installed my own wheels and tires on it that I used on another bike and one long ride on the chipseal roads in my area was enough to let me know I'm not a titanium guy. I really wanted to be as I love the look of the Lynskey bikes, but the titanium bikes I've ridden just didn't feel good to me like steel does. It's like and sexy as hell, but it feels like noodly aluminum to ride. As someone mentioned earlier, if you do order a Lynskey, go ahead and get the Enve fork option. Much better, imo. Bottom line, if you like aluminum, you'll love titanium.
On the other hand, if you are not a fan of the feel of aluminum, then go steel. Whatever flavor floats your boat. I've tried plain 4130, 520, 753, 853, OX Platinum, it all feels good to ride. Those 953 bikes sure are pretty. I really like that Anderson 953 with blue accents someone on the forum owns. Something like that is on my dream list for down the road.
On the other hand, if you are not a fan of the feel of aluminum, then go steel. Whatever flavor floats your boat. I've tried plain 4130, 520, 753, 853, OX Platinum, it all feels good to ride. Those 953 bikes sure are pretty. I really like that Anderson 953 with blue accents someone on the forum owns. Something like that is on my dream list for down the road.
#63
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 379
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Titanium is extremely corrosion resistant.
There are coatings made to protect the insides of steel bike tubing. There are waxes and other coatings that help protect the outsides. Still though, ti and stainless are better.
Between the two, ti and stainless, ti is more corrosion resistant. Stainless steels vary quite a bit. Some stainless steels are formulated (alloyed) to be more corrosion resistant. They are used in marine environments, and in better watches and jewelry that will hold up under heavy exposure to sweat and body oils and acids.
I don't know where 953 is on the stainless steel corrosion resistance spectrum. I've heard it is good, but if you ride on salt roads a lot, it could be a problem, and you would want extra protection (protective coatings, and care such as preventive rinsings, or using a beater when conditions are bad).
There are coatings made to protect the insides of steel bike tubing. There are waxes and other coatings that help protect the outsides. Still though, ti and stainless are better.
Between the two, ti and stainless, ti is more corrosion resistant. Stainless steels vary quite a bit. Some stainless steels are formulated (alloyed) to be more corrosion resistant. They are used in marine environments, and in better watches and jewelry that will hold up under heavy exposure to sweat and body oils and acids.
I don't know where 953 is on the stainless steel corrosion resistance spectrum. I've heard it is good, but if you ride on salt roads a lot, it could be a problem, and you would want extra protection (protective coatings, and care such as preventive rinsings, or using a beater when conditions are bad).
Last edited by lightspree; 05-02-16 at 09:00 AM.
#64
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Central PA
Bikes: 2016 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross v5, 2015 Ritchey Road Logic, 1998 Specialized Rockhopper, 2017 Raleigh Grand Prix
Titanium is extremely corrosion resistant.
There are coatings made to protect the insides of steel bike tubing. There are waxes and other coatings that help protect the outsides. Still though, ti and stainless are better.
Between the two, ti and stainless, ti is more corrosion resistant. Stainless steels vary quite a bit. Some stainless steels are formulated (alloyed) to be more corrosion resistant. They are used in marine environments, and in better watches and jewelry that will hold up under heavy exposure to sweat and body oils and acids.
I don't know where 953 is on the stainless steel corrosion resistance spectrum. I've heard it is good, but if you ride on salt roads a lot, it could be a problem, and you would want extra protection (protective coatings, and care such as preventive rinsings, or using a beater when conditions are bad).
There are coatings made to protect the insides of steel bike tubing. There are waxes and other coatings that help protect the outsides. Still though, ti and stainless are better.
Between the two, ti and stainless, ti is more corrosion resistant. Stainless steels vary quite a bit. Some stainless steels are formulated (alloyed) to be more corrosion resistant. They are used in marine environments, and in better watches and jewelry that will hold up under heavy exposure to sweat and body oils and acids.
I don't know where 953 is on the stainless steel corrosion resistance spectrum. I've heard it is good, but if you ride on salt roads a lot, it could be a problem, and you would want extra protection (protective coatings, and care such as preventive rinsings, or using a beater when conditions are bad).
I personally have never had an issue with corrosion on steel bikes. Admittedly, due to moving countries and the like, the oldest one I own is only 17 years old, but the only rust on that is on the bottle cage bolts, and it got left outside in the rain on many occasions as a commuter. Using a steel bike as a "nice" bike (i.e. one you love rather than beat up), I would not be concerned about corrosion personally, although I understand that my anecdotal evidence is worth about as much as anyone elses.
#65
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Central PA
Bikes: 2016 Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross v5, 2015 Ritchey Road Logic, 1998 Specialized Rockhopper, 2017 Raleigh Grand Prix
I should add that said Ritte is made with KVA stainless tubing, not Reynolds 953.
#66
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts
From my own experience living a mile from the Pacific Ocean and riding my bare polished 953 frame for around 12k miles over nine years in all kinds of weather, I can say that it shows absolutely no sign of corrosion or discoloration anywhere; it looks the same as the day I took delivery from the dealer in 2007.
The base material for Reynolds 953 is Carpenter Technology Custom 455® (UNS S45500) which is used for fabricating the landing gear on carrier based jet aircraft, and is exposed to salty seawater spray for extended periods. I don't use any protective coatings on the frame, but after riding for any significant time in the rain, I wipe the frame and components down with a damp terrycloth towel and then dry it with a clean towel.
The base material for Reynolds 953 is Carpenter Technology Custom 455® (UNS S45500) which is used for fabricating the landing gear on carrier based jet aircraft, and is exposed to salty seawater spray for extended periods. I don't use any protective coatings on the frame, but after riding for any significant time in the rain, I wipe the frame and components down with a damp terrycloth towel and then dry it with a clean towel.
Last edited by Scooper; 05-02-16 at 12:01 PM. Reason: corrected typo
#67
Steel80's

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 685
Likes: 43
From: NJ
Bikes: Breezer Venturi, Schwinn Peloton(s), Marin Lucas Valley
Thirty years ago I had a race bike and a touring bike. A college buddy of mine who also worked in a bike shop said I was "set for life". I did indeed keep them for a long time, but eventually conceded they were obsolete and not upgradeable. Bike technology has changed dramatically, particularly in the last 10 years. Steel and Ti will certainly last 10, 20+ years, but unless you're a future vintage fan, it doesn't matter which you choose.
#68
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From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
Agreed. That seat stay treatment looks so delicate. Cool bike, but wouldn't be my choice for a bike intended to last forever.
Not disputing your overall point, but my '73 Speedwell would qualify. I have a Merlin in the queue, which I don't expect to be noodley.
Not disputing your overall point, but my '73 Speedwell would qualify. I have a Merlin in the queue, which I don't expect to be noodley.
#69
From my own experience living a mile from the Pacific Ocean and riding my bare polished 953 frame for around 12k miles over nine years in all kinds of weather, I can say that it shows absolutely no sign of corrosion or discoloration anywhere; it looks the same as the day I took delivery from the dealer in 2007.
The base material for Reynolds 953 is Carpenter Technology Custom 455® (UNS S45500) which is used for fabricating the landing gear on carrier based jet aircraft, and is exposed to salty seawater spray for extended periods. I don't use any protective coatings on the frame, but after riding for any significant time in the rain, I wipe the frame and components down with a damp terrycloth towel and then dry it with a clean towel.
The base material for Reynolds 953 is Carpenter Technology Custom 455® (UNS S45500) which is used for fabricating the landing gear on carrier based jet aircraft, and is exposed to salty seawater spray for extended periods. I don't use any protective coatings on the frame, but after riding for any significant time in the rain, I wipe the frame and components down with a damp terrycloth towel and then dry it with a clean towel.
I'm not questioning the material's longevity, just wishing you had more time to ride that beauty.
#70
Not disputing your overall point, but my '73 Speedwell would qualify. I have a Merlin in the queue, which I don't expect to be noodley.
Ti has come a long way since then. I know nothing about that frame, is it CP Ti or a Ti alloy?
#71
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
I might be looking at buying another bike, told my wife this one would last forever, so I am thinking about Titanium or Steel. I don't race, just ride between ride between 30 and 100 miles. I currently ride about 125 miles a week. I am looking for a nice and comfortable bike. I have looked at Torelli and Moots so far. Any suggestions? Pro/cons?
#72
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
) since you were questioning "noodley" ti frames--though it's no more noodley than the Vitus I used to race, but certainly not as stiff as today's Ti frames. And to answer your question, it is "commercially pure titanium, grade 125 or equivalent" per the catalog/spec sheet.
#73
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Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Steel and ti. I go both ways. My stock bikes have all been steel. My first custom also. My two recent customs have been ti with steel forks, both bikes for the rest of my life. (So is that first custom. Reynolds 531. It started its life in Santa Cruz, then 5 years on Alameda island in San Fransisco's South Bay. The Pacific NW since. Frame-saved 531 can handle a lot of wet. In its early days, this bike did two epic wet rides and got put away wet while I went for a hot shower. Most of 40 years and 50,000 miles later, it is still going strong.
A caveat on steel though. While old fashioned 531 and the like make for good long lasting bikes, the newer, larger diameter thinner wall steels have to be treated far better. Small amounts of rust will do real damage to the thin tubes while never even being noticed on the old thick-walled stuff. Denting is also a much bigger issue.
I get a kick out of rms13's proclamation of the noodley ti bikes that he has never ridden. My two stiffest bikes are my ti bikes.
Ben
A caveat on steel though. While old fashioned 531 and the like make for good long lasting bikes, the newer, larger diameter thinner wall steels have to be treated far better. Small amounts of rust will do real damage to the thin tubes while never even being noticed on the old thick-walled stuff. Denting is also a much bigger issue.
I get a kick out of rms13's proclamation of the noodley ti bikes that he has never ridden. My two stiffest bikes are my ti bikes.
Ben
#74
Decrepit Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 10,488
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From: Santa Rosa, California
Bikes: Waterford 953 RS-22, several Paramounts









