What is the better Look Style Pedal?
#1
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From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
What is the better Look Style Pedal?
Hello,
I am looking to buy a new bike, as as such, will be getting new pedals as well.
I have been riding 105 (5700) pedals for the last five years, and looking to move up something similar in the Look Style.
The pedals I am looking at the the Shimano 105 (5800), Look Keo 2 Max, or the Shimano Ultegra (6800). I having 6 degrees a float, but have thought about going to less float, but not fixed. Also, I do like the wide base plate.
What are thoughts on the three pedals?
Thanks,
RH
I am looking to buy a new bike, as as such, will be getting new pedals as well.
I have been riding 105 (5700) pedals for the last five years, and looking to move up something similar in the Look Style.
The pedals I am looking at the the Shimano 105 (5800), Look Keo 2 Max, or the Shimano Ultegra (6800). I having 6 degrees a float, but have thought about going to less float, but not fixed. Also, I do like the wide base plate.
What are thoughts on the three pedals?
Thanks,
RH
Last edited by therh; 06-21-16 at 06:24 PM.
#2
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I personally think the SPD-SL is the better system between that and Look style, just because it has a slightly wider platform. Never tried Speedplay.
Also I have both Look Keo style pedals (Powertap P1), 5700 (105) and 6800 (Ultegra) pedals. Don't notice a single bit of difference between the 5700 and 6800.
Also I have both Look Keo style pedals (Powertap P1), 5700 (105) and 6800 (Ultegra) pedals. Don't notice a single bit of difference between the 5700 and 6800.
Last edited by Xherion; 06-21-16 at 06:33 PM.
#3
I changed to SPD-SL about a decade ago and have no plans to ever use anything else.
You can put a blue cleat on if you want less float than the standard yellow tipped cleat.
There's not a whole lot of difference functionally between any of the Shimano 105/Ultegra/Dura Ace pedals from this generation or the previous. They made the platform wider with the 7810 and everything from there on out is just lighter or slight differences in bearing quality. Very slight.
#4
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From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Well, I've looked at the speedplay setup, and it just doesn't seem like it would fit me.
I've been riding Shimano for years, and like it a lot. Simply set it once at that's it.
I was wondering what other differences there may be.
I've been riding Shimano for years, and like it a lot. Simply set it once at that's it.
I was wondering what other differences there may be.
#6
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From: Long Island, New York, USA
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
#7
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From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
Simply said, I do find engagement surface so small. And that you basically wear the pedal on your shoe and the cleat is the pedal.
Also I like that the Look style in particular the SPD-SL system is basically maintenance free.
Also I like that the Look style in particular the SPD-SL system is basically maintenance free.
#8
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From: Southern California, USA
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
The whole weight should be in - shoe, cleat, pedal.
#11
#13
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From: Lexington, SC
Bikes: Lynskey R240, 2013 CAAD10
I just switched from SpeedPlay Zeros back to SPD-SL. I ended up with the 6800 pedals since I got them for ~$100 US. It's good to be back to a wide pedal. Also, I've used Look Keo pedals in the past and got a significant amount of bearing play within about 5,000 miles.
My previous SPD-SL pedals were the 6620 (I had a set floating around, and put them on the Cannondale). Never a single issue in the tens of thousands of miles I used them. With the exception of the occasional "Matt Stevens" moment, I never had a single complaint either.
My previous SPD-SL pedals were the 6620 (I had a set floating around, and put them on the Cannondale). Never a single issue in the tens of thousands of miles I used them. With the exception of the occasional "Matt Stevens" moment, I never had a single complaint either.
#14
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From: Tsawwassen, BC
Bikes: Look 695, Wilier Izoard
#15
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Felt F85, Proflex 757, Proflex 252
Look
I am currently riding the Look Keo 2 Max. I've found the 4.5 degrees of float about perfect. I've found the platform wide enough even for my size 14 shoes.
Although I've hears much about this squeak, I have yet to experience this myself.
Although I've hears much about this squeak, I have yet to experience this myself.
#16
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From: South Carolina
Bikes: 1976 Raleigh,2015 Bianchi Intenso, 2012 Specialized Secteur.
The first set of clipless pedals I ever bought were SPD-SL. The R540's. I wanted to try clipless and not spend a ton only to hate them, and I wanted white. Found them on sale, in white and they've worked so well for me I see no need to replace them. They look nice on the bike too. I'm working on getting a new bike, and it's not out of the question for a pair of 540's to go on it. But most certainly I'll get SPD-SL in some form.
#18
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From: NW Houston, Texas
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 2.0 (Tiagra)
I just switched from SpeedPlay Zeros back to SPD-SL. I ended up with the 6800 pedals since I got them for ~$100 US. It's good to be back to a wide pedal. Also, I've used Look Keo pedals in the past and got a significant amount of bearing play within about 5,000 miles.
My previous SPD-SL pedals were the 6620 (I had a set floating around, and put them on the Cannondale). Never a single issue in the tens of thousands of miles I used them. With the exception of the occasional "Matt Stevens" moment, I never had a single complaint either.
My previous SPD-SL pedals were the 6620 (I had a set floating around, and put them on the Cannondale). Never a single issue in the tens of thousands of miles I used them. With the exception of the occasional "Matt Stevens" moment, I never had a single complaint either.
Matt "Sorry guys, I just couldn't slip in today"
lol
On a serious not, that is odd that there would be bearing play, I have over 4,00o miles on my 5,700's, and that count's "learning falls"
I may just stick with the SPD-SL's, you can get the both the 5800's or 6800's under $100, but I may go with blue cleat's.
Also, I've never run into any issues, the only thing is changing cleats, but that is normal.
Last edited by therh; 06-23-16 at 10:30 PM.
#19
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From: Denver area (Ken Caryl Valley)
Bikes: 2022 Moots RCS, 2014 BMC SLR01 DA Mech, 2020 Santa Cruz Stigmata, Ibis Ripmo, Trek Top Fuel, Specialized Epic Pro, Pivot Les Fat
I have been using the Zeros but will try Dura Ace soon ($150) so I can get a bigger platform. The Dura Ace is the one I would recommend due to its low-maintenance nature. I'm going to check if they are on sale anywhere and order a set. The cheapest I have found so far is $149.
#20
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From: Lexington, SC
Bikes: Lynskey R240, 2013 CAAD10
It was actually the Look Keo pedals I had the bearing play in. Never had an issue with Shimano. It was the early days of composite pedals, so I think there was a little of that to blame.
#21
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From: Thornton, CO
Bikes: 2003 Orbea Orca, 2003 Bianchi Imola, ? Waterford
Another vote for Look Keo Max 2 here. Also use the grey cleats with 4.5 degree of float. Probikekit.co.uk has them for ~$57: Look Keo 2 Max Pedals | ProBikeKit.com Have been a long time Look user since the delta cleat days. Yes, the cleats can be a little squeaky. I think some folks use either ski wax or furniture polish to mitigate it. I haven't bothered yet (not a big deal really). But the prices are good (pedals and cleats are more affordable than most). Every time I try to look at the other pedal systems out there, I'm reminded that I need to buy two sets for two bikes. So that's kind of kept me in the Look system for now...
Last edited by ptempel; 06-24-16 at 12:48 PM.




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