I'm looking for a road groupset that has no front derailleur, one ring on the crank and a big cassette.

Something tells me I would have to get one of the regular groupsets and then get a one-ring crank and a wide-range cassette separately.

I would buy SRAM but they're being c***s about buying groupsets online. Can't find them at a reasonable price, or can't find them, period.

Yay/nay?

If you plan on using it for cross/gravel grinding and want a clutch style RD you'll need to piece together a DA/XT groupset

No, front shifting works with Shimano.

/thread

Good point. But, for the original poster . . . no, sadly, Shimano doesn't.

But I wish Shimano DID make a good 1x crankset with a range of options from 38T to 44T. On my gravel bike, I use an XTR Di2 rear derailleur (11-46T) with a SRAM Force1 crankset. It functions perfectly, but the Mickey Mouse SRAM preload collar is a weak link that I've never been comfortable with. No. Let me be honest -- I HATE the cheesy SRAM plastic-with-a-tiny-screw-holding-it-in-place preload collar! With Shimano's setup, when you install it, you know you've got it right. You install it and forget it. Zero maintenance. Zero worries.

C'mon, Shimano! Make us an Ultegra-level 1x11 road crank! If you need someone to test the prototypes, send me a PM!
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Why not use this chainring?

110 BCD Asymmetric 4-Bolt for Shimano Cranks ? wolftoothcomponents.com

Hmmmm. Until now, I didn't know about them. And . . . I have an Ultegra crankset that doesn't like its rings anymore . . . but I would have to replace my BB (or use an adapter) and replace my power meter. I will file this one away for the next crankset/BB replacement cycle. (Anyone want to buy a Stages PM for SRAM Force?)

There's another thread for that

Shimano Metrea group does, but it's an oddball and apparently not marketed in the US. That's too bad, it's pretty.

The missing ingredient is a brake lever for the left that matches the brifter on the right.

LOL, but you are so right!

The left shifter is a very minor problem. You can always use any left shifter with the cable/wire removed.

The real issue is that Shimano doesn't have a road compatible derailleur for wide-range cassettes. You can get a SLX 1x11 system with 11-42 cassette, but you can't buy a road shifter & derailleur for it.

The only way to use a wide-range 1x11 system with Shimano shifters involves 3rd party stuff such as a RoadLink or Tanpan to fix the road/mtn compatibility issues.

I'm sure it does, but I ASSume you're not implying that Sram doesn't. 20,000 miles on Sram tells me so.

Not sure there's a Force 1 groupset, but you certainly can but the crank, chainring, RD and cassette in parts.

I'm fighting against the current and cobbling my 1X Shimano setup together. 6700 lever mated to a 6700-GS mid-cage derailleur + RoadLink would be perfect for up to a 36T, but has it's share of issues with a 40T. I don't blame the RD or the RoadLink-- it stills works, and the chain will stay in the 40T under power, but will tumble down to about the 28T if I backpedal about 1/2 of a crank revolution. The RD simply doesn't have enough spring to manage the chain. It's super loosey-goosey in the 11T, and the B-screw has to be cranked down all the way to keep the chain on the 11T cog. 42-11 is just super loose with a derailleur in the mix.

I have a Tanpan on the way, which will hopefully enable me to mount the lightly-used XT I have sitting on the workbench. If all goes well, it should be a very nice setup. I don't miss my FD at all, even with the current little shifting issues-- and I never really had any major problems with 2x10. It really is just one less thing to worry about. That, and my 10M shop roll of Jagwire shift housing is gonna last forever.

You can use regular Shimano gear to cobble together a decent 1x set up.

A regular RD will work, but you will need to do things to make sure the chain doesn't pop off the crankset. Paul Components and K-Edge make a nice chain keepers that wrap over both sides of the chain to keep it on. Or you can use something like an FSA carbon chain guard paired with a K-Edge Single XL chain keeper.

And if you want to go budget, you can use an old FD and bend the cage to allow it to run the full range of the cassette without rubbing. I did this with an Ultegra 6600 set up for cross many years ago and it worked OK. (6600 shifters, 6600 RD, 6600 FD, and DA7800 crankset with just a Salsa 42 chainring on the outside of the crank.)

I am currently running a basic Rival RD, Apex Shifters, no FD, FSA carbon bash guard and K-Edge Single XL chain keeper. It's a bit smoother than the Shimano set up I cobbled together.

I'm running a 42T narrow-wide RaceFace chainring, and I don't think it would be physically possible to hop the chain off of it. It's probably gonna wear out wicked fast, because it absolutely grabs the chain.

I assume you're not implying that this exact thing hasn't been stated explicitly on here hundreds of times. Because it has.

I can't speak for others, just my personal and my son's, we've not had a single problem with Sram shifting. I have 20k split between Rival 10 and Red22 mechanical and eTap. My son has over 45k on Rival 10 and Force 10 across 3 different bikes.

I have a Emonda SLR with Red 22 mechanical, upgraded to eTap. This week, i'll be on vacation and rented a Emonda SL6 with Ultegra. I've not ridden Shimano for a few years so i'll now be able to compare it to my usual groupset. The biggest issues is the shifters but i'm sure i'll get past that and evaluate the drivetrain.

Red 22 has been flawless so the bar is set high.

Don't you live in an area where you never need to shift out of the big ring on the front?

I honestly have no idea what the geography is like on LI, just assumed it's mostly flat.

There's hills, i can do 30 miles and 2500' of climbing. I'm not a great climber so shifting the FD can happen many times on a ride.

BTW... I also have a CX bike with Rival 1 and it's great also.

Heh. When I went from Shimano to SRAM it took me a few miles to get totally used to the difference is shifting mechanics. Same thing when I went back to Shimano on my new bike. Similar thing happens if I have been touring for a couple of weeks on my LHT with bar ends. When I hop back on my road bike I sometimes reach for the bar ends to shift.

I have 3 bikes, Road with eTap, CX with Rival 1 and MTB with Shimano.... agreed, it takes a few miles to adjust sometimes.

I'm looking forward to a 50 mile ride in Arizona and i'm sure once i get out of town, i'll forget all about the bike and enjoy the scenery.

Unless you are heading out to Barlett Lake/7 Springs or South Mountain, you'll forget all about that front derailleur.

I'm going northeast by McDowell Mountain.

you might use the little ring around Fountain Hills area, but only if you are searching for the steep hills through the neighborhoods.