Should I upgrade to a new bike?
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Should I upgrade to a new bike?
I have a 2009 Cervelo S1, it was a pretty solid bike at the time. I used it for group rides and plan on getting back in the saddle this season. I'm debating the merits of just keeping this bike and upgrading components v. Purchasing a newer bike. Has that much changed in the past 8 years that I'll notice a difference?? Looking at a 2016 Scott Foil...
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If the frame fits and it serves the purpose of the riding you want to do I would suggest upgrading the wheels and components. I love how you get to know the bike really well and are able to fix anything easier if you were the one that put it together.
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If your current bike fits like a glove, keep it. Looking at new bikes can be a crapshoot. Size and fit is everything, and if your current bike is already dialed in, then keep it. Dont let marketing and wonder materials fool you. As long as its reasonably light and stiff, and fits like perfectly, you will be going fast no doubt.
If you have never gotten a proper bike fit on your cervelo, it can be a massive upgrade. Im not talking about your average bike shop fitting. Im telling you to drop the $150-$300 and get a professional 3D bike fit with saddle analysis, cleat adjustment, custom foootbeds, and slow motion cameras with lasers and a full flexibility/core strength analysis.
Get tight fitting clothes and take them to a tailor. Get every wrinkle out. Get an aero helmet. Get a power meter. Get a coach. Upgrade the wheels. Ditch the gatorskins, get some grand prix tt, vittoria corsa, etc... You want the whole package. A shiny new bike wont matter much if your being held back by something stupid like a club cut jersey, or you insist on gatorskins...
If you do get a new bike, dont settle on some random favorite you read about in the magazine. Dont even pay attention to the logo on the bike, or what groupset is on it. Go to a fitter with an adjustable stationary bike and figure out your ideal stack and reach measurements. An example is the Retul Muve. Find a shop with one of those, and an experienced fitter. Get the preliminary fit done. Then go online, compare geometry charts, and get a bike that has a geometry made for you. Forget about the materials, groupset, stock wheels, etc.. As long as they are reasonable (like, 105 level), your good. Dont let the fitter sell you something from his shop unless its truly a perfect fit, which is rare. I ended up with a Ribble. It hit my stack and reach exactly. Who would have thunk?
Fit is the most important thing. Ever since I got a real bike fit, and bought a bike that might as well be a custom frame, my bike is extremely comfortable yet aggressive. I put out more power, and ride alot more in general. I can go on long rides of 4 hours+ and not have the slightest niggle.
Ive even had more slack geometry "endurance" bikes that were way less comfortable. Constant problems with saddle, wrist pain, etc... The bikes had always "fit" me size wise, but really not ideal at all...
Me and my fitter have a relationship, and we have stuff dialed in to the millimeter. It feels amazing. Well worth it.
If you have never gotten a proper bike fit on your cervelo, it can be a massive upgrade. Im not talking about your average bike shop fitting. Im telling you to drop the $150-$300 and get a professional 3D bike fit with saddle analysis, cleat adjustment, custom foootbeds, and slow motion cameras with lasers and a full flexibility/core strength analysis.
Get tight fitting clothes and take them to a tailor. Get every wrinkle out. Get an aero helmet. Get a power meter. Get a coach. Upgrade the wheels. Ditch the gatorskins, get some grand prix tt, vittoria corsa, etc... You want the whole package. A shiny new bike wont matter much if your being held back by something stupid like a club cut jersey, or you insist on gatorskins...
If you do get a new bike, dont settle on some random favorite you read about in the magazine. Dont even pay attention to the logo on the bike, or what groupset is on it. Go to a fitter with an adjustable stationary bike and figure out your ideal stack and reach measurements. An example is the Retul Muve. Find a shop with one of those, and an experienced fitter. Get the preliminary fit done. Then go online, compare geometry charts, and get a bike that has a geometry made for you. Forget about the materials, groupset, stock wheels, etc.. As long as they are reasonable (like, 105 level), your good. Dont let the fitter sell you something from his shop unless its truly a perfect fit, which is rare. I ended up with a Ribble. It hit my stack and reach exactly. Who would have thunk?
Fit is the most important thing. Ever since I got a real bike fit, and bought a bike that might as well be a custom frame, my bike is extremely comfortable yet aggressive. I put out more power, and ride alot more in general. I can go on long rides of 4 hours+ and not have the slightest niggle.
Ive even had more slack geometry "endurance" bikes that were way less comfortable. Constant problems with saddle, wrist pain, etc... The bikes had always "fit" me size wise, but really not ideal at all...
Me and my fitter have a relationship, and we have stuff dialed in to the millimeter. It feels amazing. Well worth it.
Last edited by Eyedrop; 04-25-17 at 10:59 PM.
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I'm in the camp that believes the answer to this question is always yes.
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I have a 2009 Cervelo S1, it was a pretty solid bike at the time. I used it for group rides and plan on getting back in the saddle this season. I'm debating the merits of just keeping this bike and upgrading components v. Purchasing a newer bike. Has that much changed in the past 8 years that I'll notice a difference?? Looking at a 2016 Scott Foil...
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Updating the components doesn't make a lot of sense because it will still be a solid bike for group rides and getting back in the saddle.
The Scott Foil is very aerodynamic and aggressive in my opinion and I want one myself for that kind of riding. If I did that kind of riding. I think you probably need both bikes.
The Scott Foil is very aerodynamic and aggressive in my opinion and I want one myself for that kind of riding. If I did that kind of riding. I think you probably need both bikes.
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It still is. Don't bother upgrading, ride that thing until it's toast. Don't even worry about the components or wheels unless they're worn out. It's not like you're coming from a 7 speed Fuji from the 80s with rusty everything... you're on an 8 year old Cervelo with what I assume is a 10 speed 105/Ultegra/DA group. You're not losing anything on that bike versus a brand new Foil.
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If you are planning to spend real money on upgrades get a new bike.
Any serious upgrade to the Cervelo will cost a lot of money ... likely you can get more for the same dollar buying something new.
Figure $500 for a groupset, $300-$500 for wheels .... that's halfway to a base-model Foil ... and the Foil is a gorgeous bike, aero, light .... Your current bike is excellent, but the Foil is almost a decade of development down that same road.
You could ride the Foil for another decade, and keep the Cervelo for rain rides, freedom of choice, loaner for friends who want to join you one a ride ... or sell it for a little extra cash (not my idea of a good idea ... unless you sell it to me.)
You do not NEED a new bike. You have an awesome lightweight bike in the Cervelo. But if you Want a new bike .... after seven years away, to come back to cycling I'd say deserves a reward.
When it comes to bikes, that is almost Always wisdom.
Any serious upgrade to the Cervelo will cost a lot of money ... likely you can get more for the same dollar buying something new.
Figure $500 for a groupset, $300-$500 for wheels .... that's halfway to a base-model Foil ... and the Foil is a gorgeous bike, aero, light .... Your current bike is excellent, but the Foil is almost a decade of development down that same road.
You could ride the Foil for another decade, and keep the Cervelo for rain rides, freedom of choice, loaner for friends who want to join you one a ride ... or sell it for a little extra cash (not my idea of a good idea ... unless you sell it to me.)
You do not NEED a new bike. You have an awesome lightweight bike in the Cervelo. But if you Want a new bike .... after seven years away, to come back to cycling I'd say deserves a reward.
When it comes to bikes, that is almost Always wisdom.
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If he's on the edge, don't bother. The old bike is perfectly adequate for his intended goals.
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maybe make some minor upgrades to freshen it up?? new saddle? fresh bar tape, new tubes/tires obviously. if you want to spend a few bucks upgrade the wheels? maybe a newer groupset (not that you really need it)? but the real point is that your frame is not giving up anything to the latest stuff, personally, I'd just freshen it up ride the piss out of it.
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[QUOTE=Dan333SP;19539451]It still is. Don't bother upgrading, ride that thing until it's toast. Don't even worry about the components or wheels unless they're worn out. It's not like you're coming from a 7 speed Fuji from the 80s with rusty everything... you're on an 8 year old Cervelo with what I assume is a 10 speed 105/Ultegra/DA group. You're not losing anything on that bike versus a brand new Foil
That's what I was thinking, a shiny new aero style bike is tempting, but I'm gonna just get it tuned up and ride it until the wheels fall off!!
Appreciate the quick responses guys!!
That's what I was thinking, a shiny new aero style bike is tempting, but I'm gonna just get it tuned up and ride it until the wheels fall off!!
Appreciate the quick responses guys!!
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If you are planning to spend real money on upgrades get a new bike.
Any serious upgrade to the Cervelo will cost a lot of money ... likely you can get more for the same dollar buying something new.
Figure $500 for a groupset, $300-$500 for wheels .... that's halfway to a base-model Foil ... and the Foil is a gorgeous bike, aero, light .... Your current bike is excellent, but the Foil is almost a decade of development down that same road.
You could ride the Foil for another decade, and keep the Cervelo for rain rides, freedom of choice, loaner for friends who want to join you one a ride ... or sell it for a little extra cash (not my idea of a good idea ... unless you sell it to me.)
You do not NEED a new bike. You have an awesome lightweight bike in the Cervelo. But if you Want a new bike .... after seven years away, to come back to cycling I'd say deserves a reward.
When it comes to bikes, that is almost Always wisdom.
Any serious upgrade to the Cervelo will cost a lot of money ... likely you can get more for the same dollar buying something new.
Figure $500 for a groupset, $300-$500 for wheels .... that's halfway to a base-model Foil ... and the Foil is a gorgeous bike, aero, light .... Your current bike is excellent, but the Foil is almost a decade of development down that same road.
You could ride the Foil for another decade, and keep the Cervelo for rain rides, freedom of choice, loaner for friends who want to join you one a ride ... or sell it for a little extra cash (not my idea of a good idea ... unless you sell it to me.)
You do not NEED a new bike. You have an awesome lightweight bike in the Cervelo. But if you Want a new bike .... after seven years away, to come back to cycling I'd say deserves a reward.
When it comes to bikes, that is almost Always wisdom.
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If your current bike fits like a glove, keep it. Looking at new bikes can be a crapshoot. Size and fit is everything, and if your current bike is already dialed in, then keep it. Dont let marketing and wonder materials fool you. As long as its reasonably light and stiff, and fits like perfectly, you will be going fast no doubt.
If you have never gotten a proper bike fit on your cervelo, it can be a massive upgrade. Im not talking about your average bike shop fitting. Im telling you to drop the $150-$300 and get a professional 3D bike fit with saddle analysis, cleat adjustment, custom foootbeds, and slow motion cameras with lasers and a full flexibility/core strength analysis.
Get tight fitting clothes and take them to a tailor. Get every wrinkle out. Get an aero helmet. Get a power meter. Get a coach. Upgrade the wheels. Ditch the gatorskins, get some grand prix tt, vittoria corsa, etc... You want the whole package. A shiny new bike wont matter much if your being held back by something stupid like a club cut jersey, or you insist on gatorskins...
If you do get a new bike, dont settle on some random favorite you read about in the magazine. Dont even pay attention to the logo on the bike, or what groupset is on it. Go to a fitter with an adjustable stationary bike and figure out your ideal stack and reach measurements. An example is the Retul Muve. Find a shop with one of those, and an experienced fitter. Get the preliminary fit done. Then go online, compare geometry charts, and get a bike that has a geometry made for you. Forget about the materials, groupset, stock wheels, etc.. As long as they are reasonable (like, 105 level), your good. Dont let the fitter sell you something from his shop unless its truly a perfect fit, which is rare. I ended up with a Ribble. It hit my stack and reach exactly. Who would have thunk?
Fit is the most important thing. Ever since I got a real bike fit, and bought a bike that might as well be a custom frame, my bike is extremely comfortable yet aggressive. I put out more power, and ride alot more in general. I can go on long rides of 4 hours+ and not have the slightest niggle.
Ive even had more slack geometry "endurance" bikes that were way less comfortable. Constant problems with saddle, wrist pain, etc... The bikes had always "fit" me size wise, but really not ideal at all...
Me and my fitter have a relationship, and we have stuff dialed in to the millimeter. It feels amazing. Well worth it.
If you have never gotten a proper bike fit on your cervelo, it can be a massive upgrade. Im not talking about your average bike shop fitting. Im telling you to drop the $150-$300 and get a professional 3D bike fit with saddle analysis, cleat adjustment, custom foootbeds, and slow motion cameras with lasers and a full flexibility/core strength analysis.
Get tight fitting clothes and take them to a tailor. Get every wrinkle out. Get an aero helmet. Get a power meter. Get a coach. Upgrade the wheels. Ditch the gatorskins, get some grand prix tt, vittoria corsa, etc... You want the whole package. A shiny new bike wont matter much if your being held back by something stupid like a club cut jersey, or you insist on gatorskins...
If you do get a new bike, dont settle on some random favorite you read about in the magazine. Dont even pay attention to the logo on the bike, or what groupset is on it. Go to a fitter with an adjustable stationary bike and figure out your ideal stack and reach measurements. An example is the Retul Muve. Find a shop with one of those, and an experienced fitter. Get the preliminary fit done. Then go online, compare geometry charts, and get a bike that has a geometry made for you. Forget about the materials, groupset, stock wheels, etc.. As long as they are reasonable (like, 105 level), your good. Dont let the fitter sell you something from his shop unless its truly a perfect fit, which is rare. I ended up with a Ribble. It hit my stack and reach exactly. Who would have thunk?
Fit is the most important thing. Ever since I got a real bike fit, and bought a bike that might as well be a custom frame, my bike is extremely comfortable yet aggressive. I put out more power, and ride alot more in general. I can go on long rides of 4 hours+ and not have the slightest niggle.
Ive even had more slack geometry "endurance" bikes that were way less comfortable. Constant problems with saddle, wrist pain, etc... The bikes had always "fit" me size wise, but really not ideal at all...
Me and my fitter have a relationship, and we have stuff dialed in to the millimeter. It feels amazing. Well worth it.
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