RJM

I'd level your seat first.


The height of the post looks alright to me.

MikeOK

Thanks. Yes I had just changed that out, it's level now. I'll probably cut my steer tube down so I can get rid of that spacer stack, just wanted to leave it for now so I can adjust it higher if needed.

RJM

I'm 5'6" and don't have much post showing on my bike, but I have a longer reach compared to most so I could probably do a custom frame. Instead of spending the cash, I just bought an off the shelf 52cm Trek Emonda and find that it fits really well but I do have a shorter seat mast going on. I say, if it's comfortable, go with it.

WhyFi

Weird thread is weird.

Don't set up for aesthetics. Don't emulate a "racing" set-up because it looks cool. Don't flip and slam your stem, just because it looks aggressive, if that means that a bunch of weight that you can't support with your core is now going to be on your arms/wrists, making you slam your seat back as far as possible to alleviate as much weight as possible.

Fit starts at the feet and works its way up - don't chase it willy-nilly in any other direction. Position your cleats where they work on your feet. With your cleats set, find the position for your hips based upon leg extension and comfortable fore/aft position relative to the BB (might as well start at KOPS and adjust if necessary). With your hips/saddle set, position your handlebars such that you're neither too stretched out, nor too cramped; this should be a position that you can maintain for a good amount of time while pedaling.

kbarch

From Casati, about $1400 for aluminium. Steel $2k+, and quite a bit more for stainless. Top of the line cf would be about $4500, but other carbon designs can be made to measure for less. Considering what people pay for off the rack bikes, one doesn't necessarily have to pay a premium for made to measure. What MtM shops lack in economy of scale/volume, they make up for somewhat with MUCH lower overhead than "name brands."

carpediemracing 

If you're going to sell this frame and it's in the "near future" (for me that might be a year or two, you implied that it might be end of season?) don't cut the fork. The next owner may want/need that slightly longer steerer tube.

If you have a Guru fitter nearby that might be a worthwhile investment to visit. The local guy here offers stuff like "replicate your bike and see what else fits" (so you can see what other framesets fit like yours, or slightly differently from yours, with corresponding stem length/angles, saddle height/setback) as well as "try a virtual frameset" (like if you're looking at a bike being sold via eBay or whatever and it's not local and you want to make sure it'll fit). Obviously a full blown Guru fit would work too, but I spent almost 50% of my frame price on a fit with the guy, so there's that. The full fit would allow you to experiment a bit with reach etc while pedaling and measuring power.

Disclaimer: I know the Guru guy and basically forced him to take my money (as well as giving him a brand new saddle that cost me $165) after he offered me a free fit. We probably spent a total of 5 or 7 hours doing the fit and I learned a few things from it. I did it AFTER I bought my two framesets so I was going in thinking I'd learn nothing. There were two things that happened. First, my saddle-BB distance was spot on to the millimeter. Second, I quickly maxed out the Guru gizmo's frame length - it fell short by 2 cm so I couldn't even replicate my own position, forget about experimenting with a longer one. My takeaways were that my cleat position was fine, my saddle position was fine, I got some insoles, and I changed to an ISM saddle.

Incidentally during the fit he asked me if he could use me as a guinea pig on a couple things. One was the "don't hold the bars while sitting on the bike" balance thing. I ended up with a BMX position where the saddle was something like 10-20 cm further back, maybe 10-15 cm lower, and the bars were super close (by 15 cm?) and super high (raised maybe 10-15 cm). It was such a ridiculous position that he took extensive notes to query "the experts". Although I have a somewhat aggressive set up I'm not flexible, I have a poor back, and my bike is set up mainly for me to be on the drops (that's the most comfortable position for me on longer rides except when climbing out of the saddle).

My frames were $650 and $750 respectively (including overnight shipping - $90-100 each, paint, hanger, etc), and I negotiated the price up to about $850 each? I don't remember my total outlay but I felt the builder was shorting himself. I think he's getting a bit more than that now. I used a fork off one of my other bikes (Reynolds Ouzo, so a good one), got a 3T team fork (excellent) for the second frame, then got an Enve 2.0 fork (almost as good but much easier to install) when I had the original frame altered by the same builder (shipping cost 2x the actual alteration, I had the frame painted locally by a friend).

robncircus

I also had a Tsunami custom a few years ago. I got mine with an edge fish as well. Great frame and I think it was something like $600 for the custom geometry. Unfortunately mine was stolen about 8 months or so after I got it.



Good luck

Rob