woodcraft

Google found it for me.

Steve B.

Well who knew. But old school and anachronistic describes me pretty well.

But seriously I think the method I described was an attempt to alleviate a deep saddle right behind the levers, on older style bars. Perhaps bar design has changed a bit and I missed it.

I went over to Nitto Noodle bars on 2 bikes that have pretty flat sections there and I found that comfortable for me.

gsa103

As purchased, the hoods are in the correct position on the bars. Newer Shimano hoods are designed to have a flat transition from the bar top with the top of the hood level. The bars are rotated way too much CW.

Your handlebars are significantly rotated CW, you want to level the tops out. Then try a 20mm shorter the stem. If you need more after that, you bought the wrong size bike, cut your losses and move on. If you got a good deal on the used bike, you should be able to sell it for about what you paid.

Carbonfiberboy 

The bars in the photo have too short ramps for my liking. I like longer ramps (the straight fore-and-aft part of the bar between the bend and the hoods). I make that about level or maybe pointing slightly down, then I set the hoods so that the levers are about vertical. That makes a comfortable hoods position and the levers easy to reach from the drops.

zymphad

I position the hoods based on hand position. If I need the hoods closer, I would get a shorter stem. The hoods are placed so my wrist aren't at an uncomfortable angle/position.

Sunsetman

You got the pics mixed up, I have the hoods fairly flat now.

You did nail what I'm going to do, just ordered a 25mm shorter stem.

I'll see how that works out and consider moving the hoods and/or a new bar next re-taping.

Sunsetman

Thanks everyone!

It was really hard to noodle what needed to be done.

I measured the difference between how the handlebar was versus having it rotated correctly. Rotating the bar like the previous owner had them raised the hoods 2 inches and brought them back 1 inch!

No wonder my neck and back were sore after rotating them correctly.

zymphad

It's not just stem. Some handlebars have shorter reach. The Pro PLT Compact handlebar I use have shorter reach than traditional handlebars. You can adjust your reach that way as well, not just stem.

Also is your fore/aft position on the saddle correct?

Sunsetman

Thanks. The handlebar's compact geometry seems OK. I'll re-assess after putting on the shorter stem.

Thanks for having me look at the seat. Per instructions I've watched I've raised the seat 15mm so far and maybe could go more. Seems ridiculously high for mounting.

I have the seat as far back as the rod marks go. Per plumb bob instructions it seems that I need to go back 1 inch more?

Seems I have more research on fit to do. I'm 5'9 and the frame is 54cm if anyone cares.

Maelochs

Why do you need to move the seat farther back? What are you measuring about the seat, anyway?

The saddle goes where Your Body tells it to go. There is nothing to measure, really. if you are trying to achieve KOPS make sure you are measuring correctly and make sure it matters (tip: it doesn't.) (https://hypercatcycling.wordpress.co...pedal-spindle/)

Because everyone has a different body, everyone has a different "perfect" fit. Strength and flexibility play into this (and as you ride more both tend to increase, meaning your "perfect” fit changes, too.) You might need a setback seat post, buy the way Though ... it looks like you have one.)

The most important thing is how you Feel sitting on the bike and riding the bike. For the first few minutes of the ride, after your legs are warmed up a little and you can pedal at a decent cadence with a little power, are you comfortable? At the end of the ride, do you find yourself leaning on the bars?

It looks like you have a pretty upright riding position. That’s fine. Are your arms long and your legs short? is the seat at the right height? It looks like you have the seat pretty low. As you raise the seat it tends to move back due to seat-tube angle.

it also looks like you have a lot of spacers and a long, up-angled stem. Nothing wrong with this if your bike fits you ... but if it doesn’t, then this has to be considered? It is possible due to weird proportions, you need a 56-cm frame despite only being 5’9”. (Trust me about weird proportions, I fit best on a 56 for most bikes (58 for some) and I am over six feet.)

Have you used https://www.competitivecyclist.com/S...ulatorBike.jsp ?

This is just another tool; it isn’t really prescriptive, but it offers some good info to work with. I have had good luck with it, but I have heard of people who have not.

Sunsetman

LOL. Thanks!

Yes, I was checking for KOPS and seat height.

I thought the seat location was comfortable, then I started reading about bike fit.

rpenmanparker 

You don't mount onto the saddle directly unless you just think it looks cool. You straddle the top tube with one foot clipped in and raise yourself up onto the saddle as you push the pedal down to get going. Same for stopping. You don't stay over the saddle when stopped. That is for acrobats. You let yourself down onto toward the top tube as you come to a stop and remove one foot from a pedal. You will be automatically ready to remount the saddle as you push off getting started.

The saddle goes back about 1/3 of the distance it goes up when you raise it. Maybe all you need to do is get it at the right height for it to be close to the right setback. But if not, check to see what kind of post you have, 25 mm setback or 0 mm setback. If 0, that is likely the reason you don't have enough room on the saddle rails for the setback you need.

Sunsetman

Thanks for your thoughtful post!