bike is 1 year old. has bottom end FSA Omega crankset with a 8mm hex bolt on the non-drive-side.

i droped the allen key and cranked this thing up to 400Nm and it wont budge. do i spray it with wd40 first? any other trick? btw im using just the standard length 5" or so tool. ill try find some bar to lever it without having to run to the hardware store to buy a 10"+ key.

bike sat outside all year so wonder if that seized it up.

Try to place the Allen wrench and crank arm between your palm and fingers. You can generate more torque by squeezing your hand together than you can imagine. If that doesn't work come back for plan B.

I commonly use a cheater bar to get crank bolts loose.

So plan B is to use a cheater bar, but also to immobilize the crank arms. Often you are working against the rotation of the crank when removing pedals or the crank arm. It is hard to hold the crank arm still when exerting rotational torque on it. That is another advantage of trying to squeeze the wrench and crank arm in the same hand. There is no rotation of the crank that way that doesn't contribute to getting the bolt out. But if that doesn't work:

What I do is place the bike long ways in a doorway with the DS crank atm placed vertically against the door frame on the side of the frame that acts as a block against the crank rotating when you turn the self-extracting bolt. Then a long torque wrench or a cheater on the small Allen wrench should do the job. Just you or have an assistant hold the bike firm against the door frame, and you should have no trouble getting the bolt loose.

As I mentioned above, this works great for removing stuck pedals too.

don't buy a 10" key. Purchase a 8mm allen socket with 3/8" square drive. If necessary use with 1/2" drive reducer and a long breaker bar...but you should be able to get it loose with 3/8" ratchet.

Or...less elegant....use the loop end of a crescent wrench on the allen key for leverage. But this technique is for a steady hand and slippage is easier. Much safer with a allen socket and ratchet. Bracing the crank arm is best for leverage as Robert mentioned. I personally have a primitive wooden step and I place my foot over the pedal onto this step. This is pretty imperative for Campy UT torque for example where the center allen bolt torque is 31 ft-lbs...which takes a lot of leverage and stabilize the crank arm.

Check re-installation torque...by finding the PDF assembly manual on line or contacting FSA.

that is genius

Not really. Wood is soft including door frames and dents easily.
Unless working in the barn, don't let mamma find out.

I do pad it with a towel. And I try not to bang it.

Well, yeah. Duh!

Mamma? Doesn't seem right.

if this doesnt work imma have to get some more exercise on my grip

i have no willing assistant. but i did have the NDS crankarm parallel to the chainstay. stood facing the rear of the bike, left hand pushing down on the crank arm (grabbing the chainstay for extra purchase) and then cranked down on the allen tool. the frame and tire/wheel really flexed but didnt even budge the thing.

argh....got that son of a mother.

sprayed some wd40 in it. not sure how much that helped.

but i found 2 long sockets and.... an old seatpost! to work as a lever




didnt have to hold the crankarm in place at all. because bike wasnt in a stand. for crank to rotate forward the bike has to move. so i just pushed against the bike and cranked this bastard out and sure enough it went.

out with the FSA and in with ultegra for Moar Wattz